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valet starter used to work, now doesn't


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cool0607 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2008
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: January 16, 2008 at 12:27 PM / IP Logged  
I had a Valet remote starter installed on my '03 tribute on Thursday, Friday it started setting the alarm off, but would still start. I took it too the installer and they fixed it, Saturday it stopped working again. It goes through everything like it's going to start, but no ignition. I did find out that if I manually started, then press the remote to remote start, it did work. All lights flash, and i can take my key out, and it runs fine, even cuts off like I remote started it. I even tried just turning the key to on and remote starting... nothing.
What could be the problem?valet starter used to work, now doesn't -- posted image. valet starter used to work, now doesn't -- posted image.
roo-dog 
Copper - Posts: 124
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Joined: January 17, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: January 16, 2008 at 1:57 PM / IP Logged  
  if you Paid someone to put it in... make them fix it so it works properly, all the time.   we tried those valet brand starters a few years ago...   we still have a pile of them brand new in boxes, sitting in our storeroom because we didnt have too much luck with them working properly all the time. 
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cool0607 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2008
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: January 16, 2008 at 3:54 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks, trust me I will be going back. I also like to know what they possibly screwed up from outside sources. I am kind of a nerd that way, LOL.
Twelvoltz 
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Joined: March 24, 2005
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: January 16, 2008 at 9:16 PM / IP Logged  
When you say 'no ignition' do you mean the starter never cranks or the instrument lights do not come on?
Missing a factory alarm disarm is pretty significant in my opinion because it means the installer did not do his/her job thoroughly but it happens. Your issue sounds like it may be a problem with the bypass module, do you know which bypass they used?
Roo-Dog...I have been using DEI products for years and they have proven bullet proof for me. If you have a pile of them in your store room that are new in the box, you want to part with them?
Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
aaronrs4 
Member - Posts: 27
Member spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2008
Location: Iowa, United States
Posted: January 16, 2008 at 9:49 PM / IP Logged  
I would definately take it back to the installer, and if they cant figure out why the factory alarm disarm wire isn't working, have them try putting a relay on it so it gets a stronger ground to it. Back in the day when the company I work for carried the Valet units, I vaguely remember the factory disarm wires not sending a strong enough signal to the vehicle. Just a thought.... Roo-dog, I'm with Twelvoltz, if you got some Valet systems laying around, let me know, I'd be interested in taking them off your hands.
Install it like everyone will see EVERY part of it.
cool0607 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2008
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: January 17, 2008 at 6:55 AM / IP Logged  
I do not know the specific brand or model, but I did ask the installer about the bypass. They informed me that they used a data bypass, which i would think would be flawless, since the temperature doesn't affect it.
I will inquire about using a stronger signal for the disarm, the instrument panel lights up, but the immobilizer engaged. The only way to get the remote start to work is to manually start it, then press the remote starter button.
Now the installer wants to use the type of bypass where you have to leave a spare key in the vehicle. I would think that this would be less effective than the data bypass, but what do I know...
Twelvoltz 
Platinum - Posts: 2,384
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Joined: March 24, 2005
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: January 17, 2008 at 8:28 AM / IP Logged  
I would push for the data based bypass, those key in a box bypasses do not work as reliably as the ones that are soldered into the data wires. As you have already mentioned, the data based modules are not affected by temperature.
No matter how good the installer or shop mistakes happen and you can come across defective product no matter what the brand. I would suggest to the shop to try another bypass of the same model...and while they are in there make sure that all of their triggers are operating properly from the brain.
It will probably offend them if you ask this question, but I will throw it out there anyway...the problems you are having could be related to a poor system ground so it may be something they want to check into.
Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
cool0607 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2008
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: January 17, 2008 at 8:54 AM / IP Logged  
I did do a little research on bypasses, so i wouldn't get jerked around. I really don't want the "key in a box" bypass. I will push for them to just try a different data bypass unit. I will also ask about the ground, I am not concerned with offending at this point.
Thanks Twelvoltz!
offroadzj 
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Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: New York, United States
Posted: January 17, 2008 at 10:02 PM / IP Logged  
So let me get this straight. When you try to remote start it, the lights should flash once, then the ignition should turn on (ie heat controls, instrument lights, etc), then it should crank the starter. So in your vehicle, everything happens correctly up to the cranking of the starter correct? What you can do is put your key into the cylinder w/out turning the key at all and try to remote start it. if it starts, then you definately have a bypass issue. If it does not start then try this: press the remote start button with the key in the ignition. As soon as the r/s ignition sequence starts, immediately turn the key to the "on" position. If the car starts without turning the key to "start" then your problem lies with either a missing ignition/acc wire, or a poor connection on one of the ignition/acc. wires. Do not turn the key to the "on" position until the r/s goes through its ignition sequence as on some units the r/s will be deactivated while the ignition is on. Try those 2 things and let me know how it goes.
Kenny
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
offroadzj 
Gold - Posts: 2,043
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: New York, United States
Posted: January 17, 2008 at 10:06 PM / IP Logged  
as for the non-connection of the factory disarm wire, did you leave your factory keyfob with the installer at the time of installation? Factory disarm wires can be hard to test without a factory key fob as not all vehicles arm and disarm the alarm by jsut turning the key in the door.... and without the factory keyfob, there is no way to know for sure 1) if the vehicle has a factory alarm, and 2)if the wire that was connected was in fact the disarm wire (most wiring diagrams simply only give a color and location... with which there may be multiple wires of that color in that location.
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
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