sedate wrote:
heamph's other post wrote:
On to the differences between standard (red-top) and deep cycle (yellow-top) batteries. NOTHING. They are the same, save the THICKNESS of the plates they are built with - deep cycle being up to 25 percent thicker. Because the current a battery can produce comes from a chemical reaction, the number of plates (or total surface area of the plates - 25% thicker means 25% fewer plates, means 25% less peak current...) will DIRECTLY affect the amount of peak current it can produce, because you have fewer plates, right? If you have a battery case of X volume, and you place battery plates within it, it will make X current, right? If you have the same battery case, but you place thicker plates in it, you will be able to get LESS peak current, right? Now, red and yellow top batteries are the same size case... the deep cycle version, (yellow top) has FEWER plates, right? Which one is better for CURRENT? The red top, right? What does a car amp need to produce power? Current, that's right. Now which one will you choose? Me? I'm saving the cash, and getting a better battery for my application, and gonna buy the red top. |
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heamph :::shakes head::: if we were talking fancy class d amps, xover points, quality drivers - I'd defer. I know you can install a better system. But your devotion to these Red Tops is real, real misplaced. You repeatedly telling people these are better for car audio is simply poor advice that is going to cost people money and frusteration- it belies Optima itself, and clearly you've never used these batteries side by side (if you did you wouldn't continue telling people this) - and your 'CURRENT CURRENT CURRENT' mantra is simply wrong.
heamph wrote:
Trust me, the red-top is FAR better for car audio applications! |
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Your basic argument, which you obfuscate behind an explanation of plates or whatever, has remained the same ever since we first argued over these batteries, and is flawed at its basic premise: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~67715~KW~sedate~PN~0~TPN~1 (2nd, 3rd pages) My system needs a peak of 200 amps - so I need the battery that can provide a peak of 600 amps because a peak of 500 amps isn't enough? Exactly. It doesn't make any sense. Both of these batteries would - momentarily - power an electric chair. EITHER battery will supply SEVERAL TIMES the CURRENT that the system will require - a battery that can WITHSTAND THESE CURRENT DEMANDS is what is required. Look frizkysquirrel, read heamphs own posts on the subject and he admits the Yellow is Deeper cycling battery - what matters here is NOT current - either battery can supply far more than your system could ever require - what matters is the ability to withstand the current demands that are being foisted upon the electrical system - the Red Top will NOT do this over the long term when mated to a sufficiently powerful system. The Yellow will. |
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How did I know this was coming?
How is referring people to the Red Top batteries going to cost them MORE money when they cheaper than the Yellow Top's, and in my experience last LONGER as well?
I'm guessing that you're basing your argument on the premise that, being that the Red Tops are less reliable and will have to be replaced more often, they will have to spend more money in the long run - which I can dispell right here and now because i have owned(and still do) BOTH types of batteries. How many Yellow Tops have I had fail on me? 2. Now I will admitt that 1 of the 2 as been through 2 auto accidents, and has a 6" slit in the side of it (and still worked for a year or so after the last wreck) - BUT, it only lased 3 years, and my other Yellow Top is on it's way out, which I have had for about the same amount of time...
I have had the same Red Top for nearly 5 years, it has been completely discharged several times, and has never refused to start my 12.5:1 big block in my Bronco by ITSELF. Now, I had 2 of the Yellow Tops origionally in my Bronco because I used to think, like you Sedate, that the Yellows were better, and if I had 2, then I could also have more cranking amps than just one Red, right? Well, 2 of them did work better than 1 red, but then they started going bad on me and now all I have currently is one red top. I also have one red top in my Maxima, and it starts my car better than a yellow top, and it's just a fairly stock engine on the inside...
Following your logic that "if your system will need a peak of 200 amps, and the battery can supply a peak of 600 amps", then that battery should perform exactly the same in that same car as one that could supply 900 amps, correct? And this would apply as well to starting the car as well, correct - being that a starter only draws about 200-300 amps AT MOST to start the car? Well, I can tell you for a fact, that if you put a Yellow Top battery in my Bronco, which I have pulls ~200a on a cold start up it will crank slower than a Red Top battery if both batteries have a resing voltage that is exactly the same.
-Matt