99 Solara SLE

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rfh1234

Member - Posts: 28

Joined: February 28, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: March 01, 2003 at 10:55 PM / IP Logged

Hi,

I used this site last year for help/wiring diagrams etc when I installed an alarm in my 97 4-Runner and without your help I don't know what I would've done

Now I bought a 99 Solara SLE and I want to install an alarm system setup in it. I will be getting the Crimestopper 2005-FM (I believe) The one I put on my 4Runner works great, great range, 2 way system etc. Problem is, on my Solara, I THINK the key has some chip in it to prevent unauthorized starts and if it does is there away around this without taping a key (or cut off key top) under the dash or something? I would like to totally remove the factory system as I don't like it at all. It doesn't chirp when armed/disarmed, the lights don't stay on for 30 seconds so you can spot your car in a parking lot. It doesn't auto arm after a pre determined time etc etc AND it doesn't have remote starting. The CrimeStopper does all this and much more. Plus when I broke a remote, they had me send it to them and shipped me a new one promptly and for free without showing proof of purchase or anything. So I need to know if the old alarm can be entirely removed without enormous amounts of difficulty and I need wiring diagrams and info on how to do this if possible, plus a way around the key/chip thing that I'm still not positive about. By the way, I am open to suggestions about possible better security systems if anyone has ideas, I just know that the CS2005-FM has been good to me

Haku

Copper - Posts: 204

Joined: November 22, 2002

Location: United States

Posted: March 01, 2003 at 11:38 PM / IP Logged

| 12V|white - WHITE/ red |+ |ignition harness |

| STARTER|red |+ |ignition harness |

Notes:

NOTE: Some models have an immobilizer system that needs to be bypassed during remote start. Use DEI module 555F or 555U to bypass. *1 In a 25 pin plug on the bottom left side of the fuse box. *2 Also found in the passengers kick. These wires will test only by operating the key in the passenger door lock cylinder, not the rocker switch on the door itself. *3 In a 13 pin plug on the bottom right side of the fuse box. *4 In a 4 pin plug on the bottom of the fusebox. *5 In a 13 pin plug to the right side of the fuse box. *6 In a 7 pin plug on the top right side of the fuse box. *7 Also found in the drivers kick panel if equipped with a factory anti-theft system. *8 At the ECM. On the 4 cylinder models it is in the top plug. On the 6 cylinder models it is in the second plug from the top.

Hak

Siemens Autostart

Velocity Motors

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Joined: March 08, 2002

Location: Manitoba, Canada

Posted: March 02, 2003 at 6:41 AM / IP Logged

If the Commando alarm has been good to you and you trust it's operation... don't go to anything else. Stick to what you know is good. As far as the Immobilizer bypass, you will have a choice of the new keyless bypasses or you can get a universal bypass that still uses a spare key hidden in the car. It's not very difficult to bypass this system and as far as the OEM security system, you can just leave that in and piggyback the wires. Just don't use the OEM remote FOB anymore after you have the new system installed.

Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

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rfh1234

Member - Posts: 28

Joined: February 28, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: March 02, 2003 at 9:05 AM / IP Logged

WOW, THANKS Exactly the info I needed. And FAST too. Thanks again guys Ron

Chris Luongo

Platinum - Posts: 3,746

This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: May 21, 2002

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: March 02, 2003 at 10:05 AM / IP Logged

The SLE has a factory alarm, right?

Also, is your trunk release worked by a cable-operated handle on the floor, or does it have the electric switch in the glove compartment...and is there a trunk release on your factory remote?

Does your Commando unit support two-stage unlocking...and if so, do you want this feature to work? Or would you rather just have all doors open at once?

Anyway, my girlfriend's waiting...we have to go out and visit some friends and go to her parents' house. If you get this in time, answer those questions I asked. When I come back tonight, I'll post a handful of tricks to make your install both easier and better. Talk to you later.

rfh1234

Member - Posts: 28

Joined: February 28, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: March 02, 2003 at 2:39 PM / IP Logged

Thanks,

Fortunately time isn't critical, so later is fine. Handfuls of tricks to make things easier would be GREATLY appreciated. I only have a cable-operated handle on the floor, along w/gas cover. Yes, it has a factory alarm & I'm pretty sure an immobilizer with some sort of chip in the key or something. The whole system is terrible, no chirps to let you know it's locked/unlocked armed/disarmed, no auto arming, no remote start etc.etc. I will be using CrimeStopper CS2006-FM I guess they don't make the CS2005 that I put on my 4Runner last year. But it is NOT a Commando unless they changed names recently. The specs & features are at

http://www.crimestopper.com/superpage.html

I read that I can piggyback off the factory alarm hookups to hook up my new alarm, but I'd rather remove it totally, including the engine immobilizer feature if possible, and start from scratch. My 4 runner factory alarm brought me $150 dollars when I put it on ebay and the guy was thrilled to get it at that price, so I planned on doing the same with this factory alarm.

I dont know about two stage locking but I'd prefer both doors unlock together. The factory alarm has 2 stage unlocking i believe. If you hit it quick just the drivers door unlocks and if you hold it, both doors unlock, if that's what you mean. By-passing the immobilizer as Hak explained above is going to confuse me for awhile but I should be able to figure it out, if you know an easier way, that would be great too. By the way. Thanks all for your help. You people seem to go way above and beyond the call of duty to help others out, and ask for nothing in return. This really is a great site. Ron

The new alarm by comparison is FM so the transmitter sends and receives. It works from DEEP inside any mall and confirms what you did within a couple seconds, like if you started the car it confirms with a picture of a fan spinning, it lights up all exterior lights for 30 seconds and chirps so you can find it at night in a parking lot. I added a relay to get the benefit of anti-grind. I added another relay so my horn works with the siren, and a third relay for starter disable. I think the newer model has all relays built in except starter disable. It auto arms and has selectable door locking or not with auto arm. You can also select chirps or silent. I can't wait to get at it once armed with the proper knowledge

Thanks Again, Ron

I hope it's OK to post a link, if not let me know and it wont happen again

Chris Luongo

Platinum - Posts: 3,746

Joined: May 21, 2002

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: March 03, 2003 at 6:32 PM / IP Logged

Ron, I'll try to answer your concerns in order:

Since your trunk release is on the floor, the only way to open it up by remote would be to install a trunk release solenoid; either aftermarket, or one from a newer Solara. Installation can be time-consuming, but is straightforward...or maybe you can live without it, or consider adding it later.

There are two types of Toyota alarms: factory-installed or dealer-installed. The dealer-installed ones aren't hard to remove...they go by the name VIP; you can do a search here. I've never attempted to remove a factory-installed alarm, or to remove the transponder key system; you'd be on your own there.

If your car has a square red LED in the middle of the tachometer, with the word "SECURITY" next to it, you have a factory-installed system. If you have a black rectangular panel with a round red LED, and a small series of holes just below, you have the VIP dealer-installed system.

Even if you have a Security light in the tachometer, this is still no guarantee you even have a factory alarm; this light is sometimes used only to advertise the immobilizer key. Here's how you test. Be sure the hood, trunk, and doors are closed, then lock the doors with your remote or with your key...what does the Security light do? If it comes on steady for 30 seconds and then starts flashing, you have a factory alarm. If the light just stays flashing, you only have keyless entry and an immobilizer key; no alarm.

Now, as for the wiring diagram listed above, the wire colors are correct, but many important details have been left out...here is some helpful information:

Ignition wiring: The BLACK/ red and BLACK / YELLOW are both necessary for remote start...the BLACK / YELLOW also serves to power the climate controls. The blue/red powers the radio, power mirrors, and other non-essential things; it is not required for remote start. I prefer the radio to remain off during remote start, but this is up to you.

Tachometer: You don't need to remove the glove box. There's a black plastic panel that sits above the passenger's toes; this easily snaps down. You'll notice one bundle of about a half-dozen wires that seem far easier to reach than all the others; tach is in here.

Disarm, no unlock: I've never looked for the GREEN / WHITE in the driver's running board; I could only imagine that it must test by turning the key in the trunk. There is a small blue keysense wire at the ignition cylinder; it will show a ground whenever the key is inserted. If you supply a steady ground during remote start, this will disarm the alarm (if you have one).

Immobilizer bypass: DEI's 555U requires that you give up a spare key; the 555F does not. 555Fs are very fussy about placement, and I've never tried using one on a Toyota before myself. If you use the 555U, the ring must be placed AGAINST the face of the key cylinder; tossing it over and around will not work. You might also visit www.transponderbypass.com and check out the bypass modules they sell.

Also, you'll notice the metal knee bolster, behind your dash panel, has some very sharp edges. Since you may find yourself running wires right near the bolster, do something to cover up the sharp edges. I use lengths of 1/4" split loom because that's what I have, but use whatever you think will work.

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99 Solara SLE

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