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2002 impala, code 630 alarm/rs


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uffdog 
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Posted: March 09, 2008 at 10:22 AM / IP Logged  

2002 Impalla LS 3.8

Installed a Code 630 combo alarm remote start. Having issues with alarm triggering when  armed and door wires are hooked up to door triggers in the BCM. After a 20 minute wait alarm is triggered, reset alarm, it is triggered again after 20 minutes. If I disconnect these wires at BCM, no triggering, however I do not have doors protected when I do this,everything else works fine.  

Could it be the BCM sending signal to check vehicles systems? and If so How would I bypass this so I can protect the doors

using GMBP-DL  also

Any help would be greatly appreciated

rfd
tedmond 
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Posted: March 09, 2008 at 11:32 AM / IP Logged  

is your domelight still on after 15 min?

big sexy lac 
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Posted: March 09, 2008 at 12:16 PM / IP Logged  
I'm going to do the same car so I've bee researching what I have is (-)blue drivers door,blue/white will catch all other doors diode isolate each wire
well?
uffdog 
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Posted: March 09, 2008 at 12:41 PM / IP Logged  

Dome light  fades out after about  45 secs, door trigger wires for alarm are diode isolated.

I have tried all combinations of hook ups to BCM, BLUE/White, Blue only etc. It triggers the alarm after about 17-20 mins, kind of like it's detecting something in the electrical circuit in this vehicle, IE;a signal  from BCM checking to see if lights are left on, or an interior light was left on.

rfd
Chris Luongo 
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Posted: March 09, 2008 at 1:18 PM / IP Logged  
This is a recurring issue on 2000-2005 Impalas, but for some reason none of the companies that write the tech sheets have bothered to add it to their documents.
Not all of the cars do this, just some.
Anyway, yes, after the 20 minutes when the BCM goes to sleep, it puts small, weak pulses on the blue, blue/white, and ORANGE / black door and trunk wires.
The pulses are not strong enough to turn on the car's domelight, but they're strong enough to trigger the alarm and make it false.
To correct this, each trigger must be diode-isolated from the BCM.
DEI has a document on how to do this on Fords....if you can search around here and find it, it's the same idea.
Here are the basic steps:
1. Locate the blue door trigger wire. Cut it in half.
2. Connect a diode inline, to the two halves you cut.
The striped side of the diode should be facing the "car" side (which leads to the latch switch inside the door), and the other side of the diode should be connected to the "BCM" side of the wire you cut.
3. Repeat this same procedure on the other (blue/white) door trigger wire, as well as the trunk trigger wire.
4. Now, the "BCM" side of the diode is still going to have those little pulses, but that's OK because you won't be connecting anything there.
The "car" side of the diode now has a clean, true trigger that won't false.
5. The two diodes you had used on your original install......the ones you used to isolate the car's two door trigger circuits from each other.............now connect each of those to the "car" side of the blue and blue white.
6. Likewise, connect the alarm's trunk trigger wire to the "trunk" side of the diode you placed on the car's trunk trigger wire.
7. Close all doors and trunk, arm system, leave everything untouched for more than 20 minutes.
8. If the alarm didn't false, you got it right, and can go ahead and put the car back together.
uffdog 
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Posted: March 09, 2008 at 4:41 PM / IP Logged  

Chris

Thanks I will try this, it will be a couple of weeks before I can do it, my daughter has the car at college and we just got 20" of snow,so I'm not about to lay on the garage floor in this weather.

I will send you a note if this works.

Thanks again ,I've been pulling my hair out over this thing for 2 months,I'm going blind reading  all past posts trying to find the answer before I Posted

rfd

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