new system, losing sound to sub

Hi everyone, new to this forum, but I used the site quite a bit for wiring up my relays / fans.  Anyway, I'm having a problem with it so I wanted everyone's opinion / suggestions.

I'm running the following:

• JL Audio 10W6v2 in custom fiberglass enclosure for 2007 Acura TL (picture below)
• Phoenix Gold ZX600ti
• PAC Trunk Loc Line-Output converter (coming off factory sub wires)
• Phoenix Gold Half Fared Cap (for now)

Ok, the system sounds great and works, but not all the time.  I seemed to narrow it down to when it's hot.  Or, if I use the system for at least 10 minutes, turn the car off and right back on it doesn't work, unless I wait a while.  At first I thought it was possible a bad relay / resistor in the amp that wasn't closing / opening properly because it was warm.  I tried a new amp (brand new) - didn't solve the problem.  It's important to note that while this happens I still retain full power to the amplifier, fans, etc. 

My next step was to test the subwoofer, I unplugged the RCA's and tapped on them, the sub moved, plugged them back into the PAC - no dice.  So, I figured it must be BEFORE the amp.  I replaced the line output converter and I thought that solved it.  It worked at lunch today after sitting in the sun all day, worked after work, stopped at the gas station and it stopped working when I restarted the car.

I'm totally confused of what it could be.  What othe info would help you?  I have access to an advanced voltometer if you need readings.  At this point, I tried not only splicing into the factory sub, but I also hooked it back up.  I figured this will tell me if somehow the sound isn't going through the LOC, because if I have sound from the factory sub, but not the aftermarket, it's gotta be the LOC right?  Note:  I also have 4 remote turn on's coming off one 30 amp relay (1 to the amp, 1 to each of the 3 fans) - the fans pull about 6 amps total together.

Thanks for the suggestions Alpine Guy - yeah that makes sense, unfortunately I'm having the same problem.  Here's some more info, this is really wizing me off at this point.

System ALWAYS works first thing in the morning.  Does not work at noon (after being in the sun all day), does not work at 4:00, I drive home and arrive at 5:00 p.m. and let the car sit for 20 minutes and it works.  How does this make any sense? 

I have the amp ground with a 4 guage wire to a stock ground location, along with a 14 gauge wire that splits off into 4 seperate grounds (18 guage), 1 for the LOC, 3 for the fans.  Could it be somehow that the ground is not getting a good enough connection, even though everything powers up?

Perhaps I could try the Line Level Inputs on an extra amp I have to see if that works, elminating the LOC all together.

Also, I tired to eliminate the LOC today by running a remote turn on from the fuse box temporarily.  The weird thing is that the fans & amp are constantly on, no matter what fuse I used (Radio, Ignition Coil, Tire Pressure Monitoring System, etc).  That shouldn't be either, right?  Could I have the relay hooked up wrong, thus causing the problem?

Thanks,

Steve

Thanks, I appreciate it - now if only I could get it to function, 100% of the time, haha. 

I built the amp rack (wood, carpeted) and I had Gig Harbor Audio in Washington custom make the fiberglass enclosure and ship it out to me in Chicago.

Alright guys - I need your help!  I want this thing working by this weekend...so that means tomorrow night I gotta fix this once and for all.  I may rip it all out and start over with the wiring, but my first thing is going to be to try grounding the LOC elsewhere, I think the fact that I've got 5 things grounded all through the same (small) guage wire may be causing problems (?) I don't know - I'm stumped. 

I've installed countless systems over the years and have never run into something like this.  At the sametime, I haven't worked with any newer models or luxury sedans before, I'm probably going to find out something rediculously stupid I didn't do.  Maybe the folks on Acurazine may have some suggestions for my car in particular.

Hey Alpine Guy, I would tend to agree, however I did not have this problem for the past 8 months I've owned the car, until I installed the system last weekend.

Here's my next option I'm going to try:  Remove the use of PAC LOC.  This has a voltage sensing signal to power the remote turn on.  I'm going to run a new remote turn on and completely disable the PAC LOC.  I may disassemble the relay for the fans too and use the amp & sub exclusively, which leads to another question.  Could hooking up the relay incorrectly cause this for any reason?

I think I solved the problem (I don't know why it happened, but I believe it's fixed).

I removed the PAC LOC with the Voltage Sensing Remote Turn On Wire (which requires a wire to be spliced into any positive speaker wire to sense voltage, I used the positive of the factory sub, perhaps this caused problems when the factory amp saw the impedence load) and ran a remote turn on wire from the fuse box (fuse 32 for those with a 3rd gen Acura TL).  It has worked all day so far, I've turned the car off and right back on 3 times with no problems, worked after it sat for 4 hours at work, etc.  It is considerably cooler today (60 degrees vs. 80).  I'll test it out a few more days, but I think that was the problem.

Steve

I think that's what the problem was actually.  I had the voltage sensing signal from the PAC LOC hooked up to the factory sub (+) wire, then it created a remote out.  I took that, ran it to a relay, from the relay it branches off into four wires (3 fans & the amp). 

Once I removed the use of the voltage sensing wire and ran a dedicated remote turn on from up front, presto - it's fixed.  I still have the same set up with the relay, only the remote turn on comes from the dedicated REM I ran, rather than the PAC LOC.