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gm current draw


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7t3vette 
Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: October 02, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: May 07, 2008 at 7:49 PM / IP Logged  
My wife has a 2000 chevy venture.  It has an ultra start r/s with a PKG4 security bypass(all disconnected right now).  I disconnected it all because she started having starting problems.  Before i disconnected everything I had the battery charged and a load test done on it.(passed).  I took it home installed it and went back to autozone, they did there charging test.  They told me I had a negative draw during test, but charging test was good.  They also said that during the test that something did drop down to 10-11volts for a second during test.(he had never seen this before)  I borrowed a dmm that checks DC amps.  I did a parasitic test with vehicle off and started out at .6-.7amps(assuming that reading was with bcm awake)i then cut my grass, after that my reading was down to.2amps(bcm asleep?).  My doors were open the whole time but i latched the doors with screwdriver, so no dome light was on.  I removed every fuse, maxi fuse, relay, circuit breaker, one at a time, this reading never changed.   What is my next try or option?  Should i recharge battery and take it somewhere else for a charging test or is there something i'm missing. If  i disconnect the large alternator wire during parasitic test will this tell me if i have a bad diode or not?  I really do not want a 900$ bill from any BS dealer.
brcidd 
Copper - Posts: 274
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 07, 2005
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: May 08, 2008 at 8:09 AM / IP Logged  

Sometimes it takes a combination of two fuses to locate the draw--- I have had to pull and (leave out- not replacing) every fuse one at a time- then try combinations.   I have had the alternator be warm after it sat all night- drawing amps...unhook every wire to it- not just the battery hot

I would shut the doors- and leave the windows down- There may be circuits still alive-  I would unhook everything until that amp draw quits entirely--

I have had to "transfer" the amp draw tester to the circuit (without losing continuity)- That is- I let the car run- No DVM attached- then shut car off -through open window - attached DVM- then separate the parallel circuit (unhook the battery cable) and keep the DVM attached- so that any "latched" circuits when running can remain "latched" when testing- Be sure to have a ten amp fuse inline with your DVM when doing this- you could fry your DVM   then start pulling fuses one at a time after your confirm draw is still there-   anything over 50 ma is too much

Good Luck

Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.
7t3vette 
Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: October 02, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: May 08, 2008 at 3:49 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks, I will try the multiple fuse possibility and remove all alternator wires this time.  This is very frustrating.

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