smoke, fire, what happened?

`88 Mustang(Auto), Ultra Start 3285

http://www.ultrastarters.com/products/3285_XRPRO.html 

http://www.ultrastarters.com/manuals.html

I hooked up the remote start and it works great.  Went and got two relays to be able to remotely open the driver door lock.

I'm under the impression this is the correct diagram from the manual for this model vehicle and style locks?

# 30 is ground right?  One thing I did was daisy chained the grounds together, and the positives together.

There are only so many wires coming out of the door so I am near certain I got the right two as there weren't any "maybe it's that one".

I hooked it up, pressed the unlock button, remote played music, heard usual noises from remote start box, then the hot wire going to the relays starts to smoke and catches fire.  Unhooked it.

Everything appears to still work.

Did the unlock part of the box likely get cooked?  How can I test to see if it's still good?

What likely happened?

Direct link to it:  https://img145.imageshack.us/img145/2091/wirezm7.jpg 

The diagram makes perfect sense to me now after you explained it.  Thanks very much.

I used T-Taps so I didn't have to butcher the wiring so nothing is cut and the factory locks still work.  I just wonder if the ultra start is fine? Could it survive that?

I had the relays getting power from the yellow wire in the column.  I had a 16 gauge wire connecting them to the power.

So basically the relays hooked that hot wire to ground and starting draining the battery the way I had it hooked up?

I'll get two fresh relays and try again.  Still wish I could test the module to make sure it's ok.  I suppose it should be..

The situation went from that initial close call to bad.  It's worse off now then it was.

I got two fresh relays as I didn't trust those first two after what they'd been through.

I wired it up exactly like the diagram shows.

I cut the two wires as directed on this site.  Tested each end with the meter while holding down the lock/unlock button.

Plugged in the hot wire last, instantly started to melt.  Unplugged it.

Hooked back up one of the power door lock wires.  Started to hook up the other one, it starts triggering the lock when it's connected and won't stop.

Passenger side works on the lock feature.  Driver side button feels stuck.  It won't move.  What the heck happened to it?

How in the world could this setup have failed like it did the second time?

I cut the two wires as directed on this site.  Tested each end with the meter while holding down the lock/unlock button

what color wires are you using from the cars? are they tested before using? if so how?

It was the Pink / YELLOW and Pink/Light Green .

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/890.html 

Now that I think about it....  I was only planning on wiring up the driver door so I didn't needlessly wear out the passenger door lock actuator.  The P side was still hooked up and untouched.

Could that have been what caused the problem?