dub audio series by audiobahn specs?

It appears as though you have (4) 2 ohm voice coils. You will need to wire 2 voice coils in series and connect that to one channel of your amp. Then you will do the same with the other side of the speaker. And connect it to the other channel of your amp. Following is a diagram for a dual voice coil (2 ohm) woofer. You will have to do this twice, treating each pair of connections just like the picture. Do the same on the other side of the woofer and connect each side of the woofer to one channel of the amp. You can only use Option 2 Do not attempt Option 1

massive confusion... my amp is bridged right now so option 2 doesn't work it trips the amp and option 1 works. what are the advantages of bridging? btw this is amp was set up for 2 12's i just unplugged it, idk if that matters.

Nevermind I'm pretty sure I understand bridging... It was explained really bad to me. So option 1 is if you bridge it and option 2 is if you don't bridge it?

Option 2 will yield a 4 ohm per channel load. Option 1 will yield a 1 ohm per channel load. If you want it to look like lightning STRUCK the inside of your amp, Option 1 would be the way to go. The only time bridging that amp will show you an improvement over a stereo operation would be the following case. Let's say it is 1985 and there are very few dual voice coils woofers available and no car audio manufacturers had them. You have enough room for only 2 woofers. Woofers only came in 4 ohm or 8 ohm. The amp you have wants to see a 2 ohm per channel or a 4 ohm mono load. One 4 ohm woofer on each channel, the amp will produce let's say 75 watts per channel. Now at 2 ohms per channel let's say it produces 110 watts per channel. With 2   4 ohm woofers you have 150 watts total. You only have room for 2 woofers. So you can't get a 2 ohm stereo load. In comes the advantage of having a bridgeable amplifier. With 2 8 ohm woofers you can bridge that same amp into a 4 ohm mono load. If you look at any amplifiers spec sheet, the 2 ohm stereo rating and the 4 ohm mono rating are identical. Our case 2 ohms = 110 times 2. The 4 ohm mono rating would be 220 watts. The only advantage bridging an amp will give you is if you do not have enough room to get the amp to put out max power into a stereo load, you can probably bridge it into a 4 ohm mono load with only 2 drivers or voice coils.  Or actually with one voice coil.  Hence the NATIONWIDE confusion that bridged is more power than stereo. And a lot of times it is, only because you have 2 4 ohm woofers that a shop installed in stereo, because your amp would not handle it bridged at 2 ohm mono, and in comes YOUR BOY talking about bridging amps. He talks you into bridging yours. He then connects it 2 ohm mono and WOW that baby is really beating now. So now both you and your friend are thoroughly convinced that bridging is more power than stereo. Then about 3 or 4 days later after you have told 10 of your friends about the MAGICAL powers of bridging your amp, that's about the time the magical bridging process let's all of the Magic SMOKE out of your amp. Then you bring the amp in to get an estimate on refilling the smoke canisters, the tech says man how many woofers did you have connected to this amp? You say only 2. The tech responds with, stereo or bridged? You respond with they were stereo at first but my boy hooked me SMOOTH on up (your boy is with you, so now is the time for the bridging High-Five) with that magical bridge thing, it was really beating then. Tech asks, are they 8 ohm or 4 ohm speakers? Since you don't understand the question being asked, you respond with, man they are 12s. The tech goes outside and puts a meter on your woofers and informs you that bridging the amp on those 4 ohm woofers is now going to cost you 100 dollars. Either you get the amp repaired or you buy a new amp. Either way you leave with the amp in a 4 ohm stereo load, knowing that if you go home and bridge it it will hit so much harder, but just not as long. What are you supposed to do now, you just can't enjoy your system knowing what you could be listening to. It doesn't matter what you buy first the amp or the woofers. When buying the second of the set, if the salesman just sells you without asking you several questions about what you already have, get another salesman. They should not sell you an amp until they know your woofers now and your woofer plans for the future. They should not sell you a woofer until they know what amp you have or what amp you plan to be using shortly down the road. In your case your friend had the woofer, it is not the correct woofer for the amp you have, but as long as you use option 2 and do that on each side of the woofer and connect one side of the woofer to one channel of the amp, and the same for the other side of the woofer and connect it to the other channel of the amp you will be fine. Use your meter to make sure each channel of the amp is seeing no less that 3.3 ohms. If it reads .8 or .9 ohms per channel, you wired the voice coils wrong. STOP and get it corrected before you turn the amp on.   Can you tell I am having trouble sleeping?

I did not look up the power ratings of your amp. The 75 and 110 were used only for explanation purposes. Your amp may be 150 times 2 into 4 ohms. I really do not know. Hope I cleared the bridging thing up a little.

ok yeah that works thanks that helped a lot. so how would I find out the model number for this sub?