2007 liberty drl/remote starter conflict

I have a 2007 Jeep Liberty with a Chrysler Remote Starter installed. I believe they use a CODE ALARM product. With this you do not need a separate transponder key. I then had an aftermarket DRL (Daytime Running Lights) module installed which uses the parking lights. After this was installed, I begin having problems with the remote starter. I took the dealer back to the dealer and they said they had to reprogram the remote starter as when they installed the DRL module, it reset the remote starter. Everything worked well for a few months when the remote starter stopped working again. I had it back to the dealer and they though the remote starter module went back so they replaced it but it still doesn’t work. The dealer thinks there is a conflict between the DRL and remote starter and the vehicle main computer won’t allow them both to operate, even though everything worked perfectly for a few months. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.   Marc

can't see why it would be a conflict, but you could hi-amp diode isolate the two circuits which would eliminate a conflictKevin Gerry

Certified Electronics Technician

MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer

Classic Car Audio

since 1979

Check specific Jeep/Chrysler forums for "Mopar remote start problem", I've seen there a few similar problem (not DRL). Common conclusion was that it could be related to CAN bus start-up (initialisation) errors during car starting. I'm doubt there is any dealer that can resolve this, it's Bill Gates area :)

1. Are you sure your DRL installation uses the parking lights? Typically, they'd use either A, the low-beam headlights, B, the high-beam headlights, or C, the front turn signal lamps. Or are you saying for sure that they're using the parking lights.....that is, every time you start the car, your taillamps, license plate lamp, and everything, all come on? 2. The Chrysler dealer's answer sounds like a typical dealership "diagnosis." They don't know nearly as much about electrical stuff as they'd like to have you think. The only way I'd believe them, is if they can tell you WHY. If they say something, but don't have the reason, then it's just a guess. 3. On the other hand, they could always be right. You might consider unplugging the DRL module for a little while, and see if the remote starter dies again. 4. When you said you had problems with the remote starter, what kind of problems? Does it not work at all, or does it try to start and fail?

Thanks for the answers so far. To further clarify, these DRL's only use the front turn signal/parking lamps and work by keeping the turn signal filament on full time. When you put your headlights on, normal operations occurs (regular parking lights go on). The remote attempts to start the car, it starts for a few seconds and the turns right off. Also, the alarm function (sounds horn) kicks in also. Marc

Marc, Your last comments are starting to make more sense. As you probably know, your Jeep has Chrysler's Sentry Key anti-theft system, which consists of a small chip hidden in the head of the key, and a little "radio" around the car's ignition keyhole that communicates with the chip in the key. If someone should try to steal the car (without a valid Sentry Key), for example breaking the ignition lock, and turning it to start the engine............it'll go just like you said. The engine will typically start, but just for a moment. If the factory alarm was armed, the alarm will sound too. The remote starter installation also has a separate, small plastic box, with a Sentry Key chip inside, and a little wire loop antenna wrapped around the car's keyhole. Only when the remote starter is turned on, it energizes a relay in that little box, so the Sentry Key can "show" itself to the car, enabling it to start. (The box remains off the rest of the time, so the car can't be stolen.) I'm not a regular Code Alarm installer, but I've seen their bypass modules fail, on two occasions, in friends' cars. They were both Ford products, but the concept is the same. In both cases, just the action of taking the car apart to inspect things, was enough to jostle that box around and get it working again, temporarily. IN SUMMARY: My guess is that the Sentry Key bypass module in your car is only working intermittently. HOW TO TEST: You can easily verify this for yourself, in just a few minutes, with a couple of easy tests. 1. Sit in car, turn ignition to Run, and observe all the lights. You have to be pretty fast. Somewhere in with all the warning lights is a small red dot, a little smaller than a pencil eraser. That red dot should come on steady for a second or two, then go out and stay out. OK, so now you're familiar with how the light is supposed to work. Good. 2. Turn ignition off, wait maybe ten seconds or so, and activate the remote start while watching the red light. If the red light is flashing instead of on steady, this indicates either A, a theft attempt, or B, the Sentry Key the car is "seeing" is in some way not valid.....defective, unprogrammed, et cetera. 3. Open the driver's window so you can't get locked out. Close all doors, lock the doors with the remote (so you're setting the alarm), and leave the car alone for at least 30 seconds (so the alarm fully arms). Reach in through the open window, insert the key in the ignition switch about 80% of the way (not all the way, you don't want to activate the "keysense" circuit in the car) (and don't turn they key), and activate the remote starter. If the remote start works consistently and correctly with the key in the ignition, you can be 100% sure it's a Sentry Key bypass issue. SOLUTION: If the dealer did the installation for you, they should warranty all of this, as well as apologize for not getting it right the first time. It could be something as simple as the antenna around the car's keyhole either isn't tight enough, or isn't lined up well. They are somewhat senstive to position. Probably, though, judging from my experience with my friends' Fords, the module is likely to be bad and should be replaced.

Thank you everyone for your responses. I am posting this as a follow up. I took the Jeep back to the dealer again. They ordered a whole new starter module. It didn’t help. Then they thought it was the “front computer module” or something. It didn’t help. They then wanted to check all the wiring. Still nothing. I brought the car back and they disconnected the DRL module’s hot and ground. They concluded the problem was that the DRL was connected to close to the remote starter. They reprogrammed the keys and the remote starter remotes. It worked for 2 days and then nothing. I wrote a letter to my dealer’s service manager and cc’ed Chrysler customer service. The original install cost me $550 and then another $140 to reprogram my keys and to remover the DRL power wiring. BTW, through all of this the dealer had my vehicle a total of 8 days! So the dealer is willing either to refund me the $690 and remove everything or give me a loaner vehicle and they will take it to a local and respected car audio/alarm dealer to install the unit of my choice. I am going with the second choice. I noticed the Mopar remote starter is a Code Alarm product. Is my experience typical with remote starters? Do you think it would be safe to re-connect the DRL after the remote starter is re-installed? Any suggestions on which remote starter to go with? I only need the remote starter option. My regular car key has remote unlocking, panic, etc. Thanks again for your help. Marc