remote start issue, suzuki sidekick

Installed used remote starter Command Start CS 290i , known working! Starts vehicle remotely but starter continues to crank after the engine has started. If I turn off valet switch it shuts down as it should.

I installed the RS in a Suzuki Sidekick Sport and followed wiring diagrams I have indicating Orange +12 volt output starter from RS to Blue/Red starter circuit of the ignition harness. (spliced into the harness for connection)

No added features utilized!! I wanted park light function but that is not relevant to problem so it has not been connected! Because the vehicle uses ground triggersI have to reverse polarity to use park light function!

Intended only as remote start function, singal sensor hood pin with basic connections so I thought! Connected at brake switch, tach signal, and ignition harness standard connections "direct wired and soldered all connections" .

I can't figure out how to control the output to the start circuit so it shuts off immediately after start!!The circuit output from the RS does not open immediately after start! Do I need a relay , diode, or something???? 

Reasonably I figured so far nothing has changed or should have changed from original programming so I am stumped how it's possible the start circuit remains powered after the engine has started! All key start functions work normally with key but the only irregular thing I see is the ignition switch doesn't really have a  accessory circuit key position just off, on, start so ignition/ accessory  are in the same key position. That said I eliminated that as problem since it does start with ignition and accessory but what is keeping the start circuit active after the engine starts?????

Doesn't seem to disengage at all unless I shut off the valet switch/on,off switch(same thing)!

If I try and momentarily open ground it opens the starter circuit but shutdowns as I would think it should.

I can't see any LED indications yet either because I guess LED got plugged backwards and no output from LED either way! I have a new LED I will install later but I will try and confirm LED polarity first from diagram.

There is a bit of a lag on the circuit that I noticed when you use the key but I'm pretty sure that is from the starter solenoid but even that is only maybe 1 1/2 seconds after I let go of the key but I am seriously wondering if a diode might solve the problem of any back feed. I am wondering also though if somehow I missed it and maybe there is a second start wire that I'm not aware of from ignition switch.

My last suzuki came with a bunked remote starter and same thing when I tried to get it working; the starter was staying engaged after the vehicle started..... with the original vehicle I thought tach wire had someting to do with it but I had function on that RS to run tach sense or tach less either way that still ended up with same result.

I followed diagrams and wiring notes exactly yet it still stays engaged after it starts!It's not the relay in the RS because I can deactivate the start sequence and shut it down. That said I can't figure out what I'm missing!

I found one source spliced into a tach lead wire from after market cruise; tried that one first then becuase I was suspect I located pin #13 injector #1 at ECU CONNECTOR E33......

Tried it there too and still no better. I didn't use DVOM and test signal I just made sure I was on the right pin out before I tried it! Same result either connection point.

There is a BROWN / white wire at the ignition module but I wasn't sure is I should connect it there either since first two places didn't work! I was using posted 95-97 schematic for vehicle wiring pattern but I'm also registered on alldata so I did some double checking....... everything I connected should be correct to the rs install manual and the vehicle wiring configuration so that's why I'm baffled unless maybe the signal is wrong polarity because I saw the RS does need (- neg) tach signal, but ecu has four pin outs for four cylinders..... think it was pin 13,14,25,26 for the four(maybe that is my problem)?

Again, oddly I have two identical vehicles; different RS but same "exact same " problem if I try to get the RS working correctly!

Manual doesn't say anything about programming tach to vehicle specifically however it is necessary to program number of cylinders. It came out of a four cylinder vehicle and installed in the same; from what I understand it is a generic rpm setting. It doesn't allow me to program 4cyl (gas) mode, I can only follow four programming steps in order all specifically for 4 cyl application as I see it in the table.

It mentions RS should be restet prior to programming the unit for the first time. It does not mention anything that will allow me to change tach signal type in any way (voltage sense or tach sense)

I don't even have an auxilliary functions connected. Maybe I should just try and reset the RS and reprogram it again to be sure but I'm still pretty certain nothing should have changed from initial programming and I am getting response to command from remote!  

You shouldn't reset the unit when you move the rs from a 4 cyl setup to another 4 cyl vehicle. Once it reset, it will default to 6 cyl setting for the tach signal. If you you have a 1.8L engine, there should be a separate coil for each cylinder. Go to any of the coil and set the rs for 1 cyl setting.

I can't quite remember, there is a difference between c290i & c290ic. On channel1 of c290ic it has 12 programming steps. On c290i it only has 11 steps. All you have to do just change the last 4 steps to 1 cylinder setting. BTW it has (3) 1 cyl settings, i.e. low , medium & high

low = l, l, l, l      medium = l, l, l, ll      high = l, l, ll, l    If the rs is not engaging the starter long enough then go to next higher setting or vice versa

If you search for "290i" you will find the guide for programming the steps.

Thankyou Moonliter,

That is very informative and correct! I do have the 12 step module and the individual coil packs at each plug. It now makes sense and yes you are correct about the settings!

I will have to route the tach lead into the engine compartment and just most simple to piuck up on the back one!

I understand too but didn't think that the other vehicle was older even though it was a 4 cylinder!

Should be just a matter of running two wires and I can also use a lead for the park lights directly at the lamp, this will work around the switch.

By what you say it sounds very logical that this should lick the problem!!!!!

I will thank you now for all your help and everyone and post you back as soon as I get at it to test it!