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08 f350, keyless, strange problem


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boulderbronco 
Copper - Posts: 67
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 23, 2007
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: October 15, 2008 at 5:19 PM / IP Logged  
I am installing a keyless system in my 08 Ford F350.  Real basic.  It currently has power locks but does not have keyless.  So I hook my wires up and just do a jump to the power lock and power unlock wires (from what I read).  I hit the unlock button and I can hear the relay in the brain work but it does not unlock the truck.  Same with the lock.  Thats my first problem.  Which lock system do I have?  I thought I had the 3 wire negative but maybe not.  The real problem is very strange.  My parking lights will not go off.  Real weird.  I have everything disconnected from the brain and they still stay on.  The only way I can get them off is if I ground the parking light wire, or if I disconnect the batteries.  wth?  I don't get it.  What the hell did I do?  Please help me here.  Thanks.
ckeeler 
Gold - Posts: 1,461
Gold spacespace
Joined: June 20, 2008
Location: New Mexico, United States
Posted: October 15, 2008 at 5:41 PM / IP Logged  
boulderbronco, when you use the switch, do the locks work? but they do nothing with the transmitter?
boulderbronco 
Copper - Posts: 67
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 23, 2007
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: October 15, 2008 at 5:49 PM / IP Logged  

ckeeler wrote:
boulderbronco, when you use the switch, do the locks work? but they do nothing with the transmitter?

You mean the factory lock/unlock button?  Yeah.  It works fine.  But using the transmitter it does not.  The big problem I have is not being able to get my parking lights off.  That and apparently I am hooked into the wrong lock and unlock wires.  Or I have a different locking system.  Like the "5 wire reversal rest at ground."

snotdobbs 
Copper - Posts: 148
Copper spacespace
Joined: September 11, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: October 15, 2008 at 5:54 PM / IP Logged  
The switch is no good now....Did you have autolites(autolights)? I know a guy that wired at the switch and had the same problem....The fix is to get the lights at the kick panel WHITE/ purple I think..... But the switch will need to be replaced...Or atleast thats what ford told us...
ckeeler 
Gold - Posts: 1,461
Gold spacespace
Joined: June 20, 2008
Location: New Mexico, United States
Posted: October 15, 2008 at 5:55 PM / IP Logged  
this will be the third time ive run into this on these fords. do a 5 wire setup, then msg me and ill walk you thru the rest.
boulderbronco 
Copper - Posts: 67
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 23, 2007
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: October 15, 2008 at 6:04 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks guys.  I do not have DRL (daytime running lights) or autolights.  I am currently hooked into the WHITE/ violet wire as that is the one that tested right.  Strange though as this list says a different wire.  So you think I toasted my headlight switch?  Makes sense I guess.  But if thats the case, and I have the right wire, how am I suposed to hook up my parking lights?  I have it hooked to the WHITE/ violet about 12" from the switch itself.   Am I suposed to tap into it after a junction or relay or something? 

ckeeler,

So your saying I don't have the 3 wire negative I have the 5 wire reversal?  That means I need a relay setup according to my manual.  By the way I am installing an Omega REC-11+.

Thanks again guys for your help.  Here is what I found on this site for wiring for my truck.

Here is what Audiovox lists for the 08 F350:

     
          #512299: 2008 FORD F350 2DR TRUCK
     Audio/Mobile Video                                        
     WIRE          COLOR          POLARITY          LOCATION     
     Battery          WHITE/ RED          (+)          RADIO HARNESS     
     Accesory          BLUE          (+)          RADIO HARNESS     
     Ground          BLACK/ BLUE          (-)          RADIO HARNESS     
     Illumination          VIOLET/GRAY          (+)          RADIO HARNESS     
     Amp Turn On          VIOLET/RED          (+)          RADIO HARNESS     
     LF Speaker (+)          WHITE     
     LF Speaker (-)          WHITE/ BROWN     
     RF Speaker (+)          WHITE/ VIOLET     
     RF Speaker (-)          WHITE/ ORANGE     
     LR Speaker (+)          WHITE/ GREEN     
     LR Speaker (-)          BROWN / YELLOW     
     RR Speaker (+)          BROWN / WHITE     
     RR Speaker (-)          BROWN / BLUE     
     Steering Cntrls          OPTIONAL     
     Radio Security          YES     
     Security                                        
     WIRE          COLOR          POLARITY          LOCATION     
     Battery          BLUE/RED          (+)          IGNITION SWITCH     
               FOR HIGH CURRENT LOAD GO TO VEHICLE BATTERY     
     Ignition 1          WHITE/ ORANGE          (+)          IGNITION SWITCH     
     Starter 1          BLUE/WHITE          (+)          IGNITION SWITCH     
     All Door Trigger          VIOLET          (+)          UNDER DRIVERS SILL IN HARNESS COMING FROM PASS SIDE     
               GREEN WIRE UNDER DRIVERS SILL IN HARNESS COMING FROM PASSENGER SIDE     
     Domelight Super          GREEN/ BLUE          (-)          HEADLIGHT SWITCH     
     LF Latch          GREEN/ VIOLET          (OPEN)          IN HARNESS IN DRIVER KICKPANEL     
               THESE TRIGGERS REST AT (-) AND ARE OPEN WHEN THE DOOR IS OPEN     
     RF Latch          WHITE          (OPEN)          IN HARNESS IN PASSENGER KICKPANEL     
     Parking Lights          BLUE/GRAY          (-)          HEADLIGHT SWITCH     
               IF THE VEHICLE IS EQUIPPED WITH AUTO HEAD LAMPS USE MUST USE TWO RELAYS. ONE RELAY WILL GET CONNECTED TO WHITE/ VIOLET(HEADLAMP OFF) THE OTHER WIRE WILL GET CONNECTED TOVIOLET/GREEN(AUTOLAMP ON). WITHOUT AUTOLAMP ONLY ONE RELAY ON HEADLAMP OFF.     
     Low Crr Pk Lights          VIOLET/WHITE          (+)          DRIVERS KICKPANEL     
     Convenience                                        
     WIRE          COLOR          POLARITY          LOCATION     
     Headlights-Lo          YELLOW/BLUE          (-)          HEADLIGHT SWITCH     
     Parking Brake          WHITE/ VIOLET          (-)          AT VEHICLE PARKING BRAKE SWITCH     
     Seat Mem 1          VIOLET/WHITE          (-)          IN HARNESS IN DRIVER KICKPANEL TO DOOR     
     Seat Mem 2          YELLOW          (-)          IN HARNESS IN DRIVER KICKPANEL TO DOOR     
     Remote Start                                        
     WIRE          COLOR          POLARITY          LOCATION     
     Battery          BLUE/RED          (+)          IGNITION SWITCH     
               FOR HIGH CURRENT LOAD GO TO VEHICLE BATTERY     
     Ignition 1          WHITE/ ORANGE          (+)          IGNITION SWITCH     
     Accessory 1          VIOLET/GREEN          (+)          IGNITION SWITCH     
     Accessory 2          BROWN / YELLOW          (+)          IGNITION SWITCH     
     Starter 1          BLUE/WHITE          (+)          IGNITION SWITCH     
     Anti-Theft Type          FORD PATS® OR SECURILOCK® VEHICLE IMMOBILIZER     
     Anti-Theft Descript          THE KEY SENDS AN RF SIGNAL TO THE BCM MODULE THROUGH AN ANTENNA LOCATED AROUND THE IGNITION CYLINDER     
     Key Sense          BLUE/GRAY          (+)          STEERING COLUMN HARNESS     
     Tachometer          BLUE          (AC)          AT HARNESS NEXT TO BRAKE PEDAL     
               SEE THE PICTURE IN DOCUMENT SECTION     
     Speed Sense          YELLOW/BLUE          (AC)          AT ABS CONTROL MODULE     
               ALSO AT WIPER MOTOR     
     Parking Lights          BLUE/GRAY          (-)          HEADLIGHT SWITCH     
               IF THE VEHICLE IS EQUIPPED WITH AUTO HEAD LAMPS USE MUST USE TWO RELAYS. ONE RELAY WILL GET CONNECTED TO WHITE/ VIOLET(HEADLAMP OFF) THE OTHER WIRE WILL GET CONNECTED TOVIOLET/GREEN(AUTOLAMP ON). WITHOUT AUTOLAMP ONLY ONE RELAY ON HEADLAMP OFF.     
     Low Crr. Pk Lights          VIOLET/WHITE          (+)          DRIVERS KICKPANEL     
     Brake Lights          VIOLET/WHITE          (+)          BRAKE SWITCH     
     Reverse Lights          GREEN/ BROWN          (+)          IN HARNESS IN DRIVER SILL PANEL     
     Horn          YELLOW/RED          (-)          STEERING COLUMN HARNESS     
     Modules                                        
     WIRE          LOCATION                         
     Please select another category
     Doorlocks/Windows                                        
     WIRE          COLOR          POLARITY          LOCATION     
     Door Lock Circuit          3 WIRE NEG     
     Power Unlock          YELLOW/VIOLET          (-)          DRIVERS SIDE KICK PANEL     
               WITHOUT KEYLESS ENTRY 5 WIRE REVERSE POLARITY     
     PowerLock          BLUE/GREEN          (-)          DRIVERS SIDE KICK PANEL     
               WITHOUT KEYLESS ENTRY 5 WIRE REVERSE POLARITY     
     Driver Mtr Unlock          VIOLET/GRAY          (+)          DRIVERS SIDE KICK PANEL     
     Driver Mtr Lock          GRAY/BROWN          (+)          DRIVERS SIDE KICK PANEL     
     Pas Mtr Unlock          BROWN / GREEN          (+)          UNDER PASSENGER SIDE DOOR SILL PLATE     
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,609
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: October 15, 2008 at 6:21 PM / IP Logged  

If your lights are still staying on, There is a burnt trace inside the switch body itself.  Remove the switch, remove the 3 screws on the back of the switch, remove the case of the switch.  There is a very small trace on the board that has burnt open.  Simply solder a small wire from the next component left of the burn, solder the other end of the wire to the next component right of the burn.

You asked "What did I do", for all of these things that I have repaired so far, the installers all said the same thing, I looked at the computer for the wire colors but I forgot to check the polarity.  So if I had to guess, you used the wrong polarity when you connected to the wire at the switch.

boulderbronco 
Copper - Posts: 67
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 23, 2007
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: October 15, 2008 at 7:14 PM / IP Logged  
i am an idiot wrote:

If your lights are still staying on, There is a burnt trace inside the switch body itself.  Remove the switch, remove the 3 screws on the back of the switch, remove the case of the switch.  There is a very small trace on the board that has burnt open.  Simply solder a small wire from the next component left of the burn, solder the other end of the wire to the next component right of the burn.

You asked "What did I do", for all of these things that I have repaired so far, the installers all said the same thing, I looked at the computer for the wire colors but I forgot to check the polarity.  So if I had to guess, you used the wrong polarity when you connected to the wire at the switch.

Right.  I'm trying that fix but with .050" solder and a rather large iron it's a tough do.  But that is definatly the problem.  Now my manual says the wire should still work with a (-) polarity signal switch.  It says "Some vehicles...triggered by a Negative Ground circuit from the headlight switch.  These cars can still be coonnected directly to the White wire by finding the parking light circuit after the relay, usually at the Fuse/Junction Block."  So I take that to mean I should basically hook my wire to the back of the light itself.  Also if you look at that wiring list I posted it says the parking lights are Blue/Gray (-) at the headlight switch.  There is no Blue/Gray wire there.  Below that it says low Crr. PK lights (+) drivers kick panel.  That is the one I am connected to (it actuall comes right off the switch.  Anyway thanks for the help.  I'll just run my wire into the engine bay and hook to the wire directly at the parking light and just get a new headlight switch.

But now what do I do about my locks?

mikvot 
Gold - Posts: 1,043
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: December 19, 2006
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: October 15, 2008 at 8:00 PM / IP Logged  
I'm not sure what those tech notes are talking about. I've done multiple 08s that were not equiped with factory keyless. The wires will be blue/green and yellow/violet(-) in drivers kick. You need to test because there are a couple of each of that colors. For the parklights I use violet/white (+) In the Drivers kick..not at the switch
boulderbronco 
Copper - Posts: 67
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 23, 2007
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: October 15, 2008 at 8:36 PM / IP Logged  

mikvot wrote:
I'm not sure what those tech notes are talking about. I've done multiple 08s that were not equiped with factory keyless. The wires will be blue/green and yellow/violet(-) in drivers kick. You need to test because there are a couple of each of that colors. For the parklights I use violet/white (+) In the Drivers kick..not at the switch

Thats how I have the locks hooked up.  I jumped in at the door grommet just to check and it didn't work.  If there are multiple of those colors I supose I could have the wrong ones.  But I didn't think manufacturers ever, ever put the same coded wire in the same harness.  So your saying the 08 F350 without keyless has a 3 wire negative pulse system?  Thats what I was thinking it had.  I'll look into the multiple coded wire issue tomorrow.  As for the parking lights I just hooked into the wire right behind the headlight.

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