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rival904 
Member - Posts: 28
Member spacespace
Joined: January 03, 2008
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: November 21, 2008 at 10:06 AM / IP Logged  
whiterob wrote:
rival904 wrote:
Hmm. Well I did some remeasuring and I wont be able to get 4 of them in there, not ported atleast. Sealed I will be able to do, and so I plan on building the box and what not this weekend and throwing it on the meter and seeing what it will do.
Also, you guys had said that I couldnt do a 1x7 and keep the same length? Would I simply use the WinISD program to get the port lengths or is there another way?
Also, whats the best way to get the wires outside of the box in a sealed situation? I normally just tie a knot in the wire, on the inside of the box, drill a hole just barely big enough for the wires, and put a large dab of liquid nails on the inside between the knot and the box and then pull the wires quickly, hopefully sealing it all up. This box I was going to try and use fiberglass resin to seal the inside 100%, what would you guys suggest? Will the resin mess with the wires or whats the trick?
It's not that you can't use a slot port with those dimensions it's more that you shouldn't. The port noise will be much more prevailent with that size port.
You could try to use binding posts on your enclosure. That will be a more professional way of running the wire through the enclosure. Simply drilling a hole in the enclosure and running it through is fine. If you use caulk and some resin it will work fine.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=091-1247
stevdart gave a good explanation. With many of Pioneer's subs they are made to fit in small enclosure configurations. This means, with ported designs you will need either a small cross sectional area on the port or a very long port. So if you do change Pioneer's recommended port size you will need a much longer enclosure. WinISD would be able to help you out with this. stevdart was also right on with the slot port recommendation. You should go with as square of a slot port as possible. That way you will have less air turbulance which means less port noise.
If you go sealed then none of that really matters. Just stick with an enclosure around Pioneer's specs and you will be fine. I was thinking of the wrong sub previously so stevdart is probably right with it taking up around 0.2 cubic foot. Pioneer's recommended enclosuremay account for that so check that for sure.
I havent really worked much with resin, but it wont eat the wires or anything of that nature? Also, if the wires move on the outside it causes a little movement on the inside of the box, that wont affect things either?
And when you say I should go with as sqaure of a slot port as possiable, then I should stick to like a 3x4 instead of a 1x7?
If thats the case then why do alot of ported boxes I see have a slot port running the whole width of the box, I would think its because it wont have air flowing on the sides of it, just in the middle, is this correct?
2004 F150 STX 4x4
Eclipse CD3100
(4) Pioneer TS-W3001D4
Powerbass 3XL 6x8
Powerbass 600.4
stevdart 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 21, 2008 at 5:50 PM / IP Logged  

A long, thin port is less accurate than a more square design and has greater air turbulence.  Keep any port design at a 8:1 ratio or more square.  One inch is too narrow to use.  One and a half inches on the short width would be the narrowest I would design with.

3 X 4 is 12.  1 X 7 is 7.  These don't compare, but if you were just throwing out numbers to qualify what "more square" means then you are right that the 3 X 4 is better.

Use a rubber grommet for the wire through the box if you are concerned about chemical interaction.  For myself, I haven't heard any stories of wire insulation being damaged by resin.  And if the wire, in whatever way it's secured through the box, is secured completely, there won't be movement of the wire inside the box when the outside part of the wire moves.  But if there is some movement, no harm done.

For your question of ported box designs, the easiest way to build a slot port is to use the effective inside width of the box for port opening length.  It keeps the construction at its simplest for both the design and the building of it.  Some premade boxes have poorly designed slots, so don't put much into those designs, but many are correctly built.  If a slot opening is 12"  on the long side and you want to maintain an 8:1 ratio at a minimum, then the width of the slot should be no less than 1.5".  Then, if you wanted to lengthen the port for better tuning accuracy, you could widen the slot design to say, 2", and work the port length out again using that larger square inch opening.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
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