95 jeep grand cherokee lock system

ok ive got it here now

sorry about the double post i am new around here.

96-97 has an in vehicle multiplexing system. IVMS. there are a driver and passenger door lock module. Basically 1 DLS will control the drivers door in a reversal rest at ground system and the passenger door controls all other doors(also reversal ground at rest), but not the driver. Im gonna tell you right now your gonna have fun with this one, but dont give up youll get it. You WILL have to cut both the unlock and lock wires from BOTH door modules. Oh and heres the worst part..... BOTH door panels need to be removed as the modules are at the switches in the door. its way to complicated to write out everything on here but PM me after you get goin and ill help you out.

sorry for the extra post but. if you look at the date of birth inside the driver door jamb you'll see that you have a 96 jeep, or close enough to it that it has the IVMM system.

side note...... i hate it when these come in the shop, i always give myself and extra half hour for these beasts.lol

I've seen it twice now Howie, both times on new Superduty Fords. And I haven't seen them all that way either. but never on a jeep, nope never. all those jeeps have audiovibe-mike, if that is the lock system he has is a 5 wire system that has to be done in each front door, theres not going to be a reversal rest at open on this one.

i got the chance to test the unlock wire which is  pink/purple and when i press the unlock switch the multimeter reads 12v but it also reads12v when i press lock while testing the same pink/purple wire so where does the unlock signal actually come from? there is a 3rd wire coming out of the back of the lock/unlock switch is there any idea what that wire does

• Meter again the pink/purple wire at the switch or wherever you have it, and verify that it shows 12V when the switch is held to "unlock".
• Apply 12 volts to that wire(you can get it from the ignition switch or the battery, through a 5 amp fuse. If the fuse blows, I'm wrong and it's a 5-wire rest-at-ground system. If the doors unlock, go to the next step. If they don't unlock, but the switch is working, then you didn't apply 12V or something else is really screwed up.
• Disconnect the alarm's (+) unlock wire from anything whatsoever on the car. Meter that wire, while pressing "unlock" on the aftermarket remote. It should show 12V. If it doesn't, the module is bad.