not much grounding for dei alarms?

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trdsleeper

Member - Posts: 6

Joined: November 30, 2008

Location: California, United States

Posted: November 30, 2008 at 5:27 AM / IP Logged

Hi, I'm new to this forum and I have a few questions about my Viper 5900 Alarm. But first, I want to let everyone know that I have searched the forums already but did not find the info I need yet.

1. Why is there only 1 black grounding wire in the H1/main harness for the entire alarm set up? I have installed several car audio system in the past and there is always the need to ground wires correctly but for car alarms it seems like most of the wires are just outputs.

2. I have read past topics that were posted and many members were saying that for the Viper 5900 the only wire to cut during installation is the starter wire. This is understandable but what about the other heavy gauge wires like ignition and accessory? It seems like the only way to connect them without cutting would be to use T-taps or Scotch-locks. However, the DEI installation manual highly discouraged using such connectors on the heavy gauge wires of the XCRS.

Elvis66

Member - Posts: 9

Joined: February 06, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: November 30, 2008 at 7:09 AM / IP Logged

when making connections, I like to strip a section of wire bare without cutting it. solder the alarm wire to the bare section then re insulate with a high quality tape or wrap.

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: November 30, 2008 at 7:35 AM / IP Logged

That ground wire should go to an existing bolt with the paintwork scraped bare or an existing ground point or if you must the battery negative, remember this is grounding the alarm part only and only needs to sink 3-5amps. Second point, Elvis66 is spot on, I normally strip, solder then bind with Scotch 33+ (which is over $5 per reel here) an alternative if you have enough length is to cut ign, acc etc and Y join your wires, solder them and cover with heat shrink tube. This or an adhesive lined butt splice, very expensive and a PROPER crimping tool required, these methods are used by the vehicle loom manufacturers, and of course look neater. To reopen an old argument T taps or insulation displacement connectors as they are properly called are generally discouraged and are actually forbidden to use in Europe.

trdsleeper

Member - Posts: 6

Joined: November 30, 2008

Location: California, United States

Posted: November 30, 2008 at 2:41 PM / IP Logged

So there's really only one grounding wire for the entire alarm system. Interesting. I was also reviewing the wiring diagrams before I got started on the installation and I am not certain about two things.

1. There's three 12V constant input wires (red, red, RED / white) for the XCRS but do I need to connect all of them? I was going to use the two red wires only but would even one red wire be enough?

2. I also do not know what to do with the WHITE/ blue (-) activation input. Should I ground it or leave it alone?

Thanks everyone.

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: November 30, 2008 at 5:34 PM / IP Logged

The white blue in this instance is used when adding a remote start unit to an existing alarm, then pressing single star * activates this cable. Using the programming or bitwriter makes it do different things such as an aux output and on clifford alarms without the remote start it's aux 2. (RED / white being aux 1). The RED / white input wire not the one in brackets I just mentioned is used when you might have extra ign or starter wires, also DON'T use one fuse, one is for the starter circuit, the other for ignition etc. If you don't believe me about the black grounding wire, just think, its sole function is to ground the LED, extra zones such as shock, prox etc. and the coils for the various relays.

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not much grounding for dei alarms?

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