battery dies every few days

haha, maybe me asking will get some answers. 

I have no aftermarket alarm nor starter kill installed.  I have an alarm/starter combo waiting to go into the vehicle when everything gets sorted out and becomes warmer out again but for right now nothing has been touched or installed.  I have tried many things to see whats drawing the power from my vehicle battery.  Yes I have pulled the fuse near the amp and shut the circuit breaker to the sub amp at the battery.  It's an Alpine mrd-m605 in it right now if that helps.  Could there be something else thats drawing that much juice from the battery?  How can i test the alternator to see if it has a bad diode/regulator?  It charges the battery just fine and not making any funny noises.  What is the deal with all these mustangs and no one has an answer other than plug it in (trickle charge it) untill I drive it.  Thats a band-aid not a real fix.  I have read online about many mustangs and no solutions to the same problem.  What gives?

I would disconnect the amp wire right at the battery and hook up your meter and disable the doors pins like previously discussed.

After 20 minutes start pulling fuses until the current draw drops below 35mA.

If you have any aftermarket parts (like a deck) I would start with those fuses first. 

The ultimate goal is to find a single fuse that the excessive current is being drawn through.  Once you identify the fuse you can use a factory service manual to find all devices on that fuse.  The next step would be to eliminate the individual devices from the fuse one by one and see which one is pulling the current.  I know Nissan had a problem with some of their stock head units going bad and the cd mechanism (I think) would draw a bunch of current even with the car off.  This could be something similar.

I would agree that a trickle charger is a band aid, but it sure beats the heck out of jumping the car whenever you want to drive it!   :)

you are invisible

There was a specific reason I wrote what I wrote and for the test to work that has been detailed you must follow each step.

The door pins may "wake up" the GEM module, so you MUST bypass them, regardless of if it is a convertable or not, or if you have 3,000 different dome lights or no dome lights at all.  Dome lights aren't the concern here, electronic modules are.

Also, you are NOT looking for voltage drops - you most likely won't see one with an 80mA load.  You MUST check current, and you must wait for everything in the car to go to sleep.

If you think the alternator may be the cause of the issue you can disconnect the alt while performing the test I mentioned and see if the currend draw goes away.  Or, you can just do what you said and unhook it and then hook it back up later - although that seems a bit inconvenient if you already have the proper tools to actually diagnose the problem.

You may be best off taking the car to a shop that can run these tests and determine exactly where the draw is.

Maybe you should contact I am an Idiot - he usually has some good ideas - I'm surprised he hasn't posted yet.

I think he's avoiding you because of your screenname