2007 accord v6 ex lock/unlock issue

Home / the12volt's Install Bay / Car Security and Convenience / 2007 accord v6 ex lock/unlock issue (

Topic Closed)

Welcome Guest :)

Members

< Prev Topic Next Topic >

jmacf14

Copper - Posts: 160

This member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.

Joined: December 27, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: December 25, 2008 at 6:55 PM / IP Logged

Ive installed an ungo sr6000 in this 2007 accord ex w/ v6. I used an idatalink ads al ca module that was flashed at a local shop. Everything works great axcept no lock/ unlock. I wired everything per the wiring info from idatalink, good soldered joints. Any ideas or suggestions? How hard would it be to wire the alarm unit to the locks themselves. The info I had said "type B" locks, I'm not sure what that means. Older hondas are just negative locks, are these the same? Thanks in advance, and Happy Holidays!

jmacf14

i am an idiot

Platinum - Posts: 13,670

This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: September 21, 2006

Location: Louisiana, United States

Posted: December 25, 2008 at 7:03 PM / IP Logged

	Power Unlock		PINK/BLUE		(-)		IN A GREEN PLUG AT VEHICLE FUSE PANEL
	PowerLock		PINK/BLACK		(-)		IN A GREEN PLUG AT VEHICLE FUSE PANEL

Notes on both say to test using passenger door lock/unlock switches

JWorm

Platinum - Posts: 2,208

Joined: December 11, 2002

Location: New Hampshire, United States

Posted: December 25, 2008 at 7:12 PM / IP Logged

The lock and unlock wires are easy. The arm and disarm wires are in the drivers door. Thats not so easy. I would try to get the module working.

jmacf14

Copper - Posts: 160

Joined: December 27, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: December 25, 2008 at 11:33 PM / IP Logged

Any ideas how to make the module work better? according to the idatalink install guide's vehicle compatibility chart, this car is a type 1 install, and the type one installation wiring diagram shows a brown red wire for doorlock data wire. I have the orange wire from the module soldered there. I am running a factory disarm wire from the ungo to the bypass' brown wire for disarm (-) input. that should take care of the factory alarm disarm, correct? If thats the case, can I just hardwire directly to the pink/black and pink/blue for locks and be done? I'm not real sure if I'm not reading the info correctly on the install guide for the bypass. Thanks again.

jmacf14

Copper - Posts: 160

Joined: December 27, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: December 26, 2008 at 6:32 PM / IP Logged

Heres what Ive discovered: I disconnected the lock/unlock wires from the ungo to the bypass. I pulsed ground to the bypass modules lock/unlock input, and behold the locks worked. So I meterd the ungos lock wires and they were working also. The differance being that the ungo sends (-) signal down 1 wire and (+) down the other. I believe that was causing the problem. I tested the (-) factory alarm arm and disarm wires to the bypass lock input wires and they worked fine then, except it would unlock drivers door on remote start., I ended up just hard wiring the lock wires from the ungo directly to the car's lock/unlock wires. This works fine since the ungo is still disarming the factory alarm through the bypass. everything is working great now. This ungo unit is definately not as installer friendly as the ultrastarts that I usually install.

jmacf14

ckeeler

Gold - Posts: 1,461

Joined: June 20, 2008

Location: New Mexico, United States

Posted: December 27, 2008 at 10:46 AM / IP Logged

you could have also just placed diodes inline on the lock wires to block the positive voltage from reaching your bypass. i always do this

jmacf14

Copper - Posts: 160

Joined: December 27, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: December 27, 2008 at 11:07 AM / IP Logged

so I should have wired diodes withe the cathode facing the ungo, away from the bypass. This will block the 12v. but allow the (-) signal? Sounds right. Correct me if I'm wrong for future referance. Thanks.

jmacf14

ckeeler

Gold - Posts: 1,461

Joined: June 20, 2008

Location: New Mexico, United States

Posted: December 27, 2008 at 11:35 AM / IP Logged

jmacf14 wrote:

exactly. really you should always do this as a practice if connecting door lock wires to a data bypass module or MUX system such as a 1-wire chrysler. if your just triggering a standard negative or positive triggered relay system, its not nessasary.

jmacf14

Copper - Posts: 160

Joined: December 27, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: December 27, 2008 at 12:30 PM / IP Logged

Now I know. every day is a learning experiance. Thanks.

jmacf14

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.

Printable version

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

Search the12volt.com

Follow the12volt.com

Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

2007 accord v6 ex lock/unlock issue

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.This topic is closed.

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.