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anyone mounted an amp to a trunk lid?


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ckeeler 
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Posted: December 31, 2008 at 7:21 PM / IP Logged  
ive mounted tons of amps upside down and never had a problem. never had a customer complaint of thermal shutdown either. (of course i never did it with a cheap amp either).  i never did it on a trunk lid though. i always mounted them under the rear decks of cars, in the center in between the rear speakers and just used spacers to space them out from the bottom of the rear deck so that there was some room for air flow. you wont have to mess with the trunk lid springs or adding shocks or any of that other stuff. and how many factory amps have you seen mounted there where i just described? ive seen quite a few myself.
i am an idiot 
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Posted: December 31, 2008 at 7:49 PM / IP Logged  

Mounting any amplifier "right side up" is really mounting the amp upside down.  With the bottom of the amp mounted to the floor of the vehicle, the components mounted to the circuit board are dangling and have to deal with the force of gravity all day long.  When the manufacturers say not to mount it upside down, they are telling you to not have the heat sink mounted to a surface that will prevent air from getting to the heat sink.  That would be bad.  Mounting them upside down with the bottom cover against the mounting surface is fine.  Upside down with the heat sink flat against the mounting surface, not so fine.

bigjohnny 
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Joined: September 23, 2008
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 01, 2009 at 9:25 AM / IP Logged  
ok, couple of things here. first off, ckeeler, if I mount it to my trunk lid, I will have to get stiffer springs or shocks or something, because my trunk as it is, already has trouble staying open. Ive already had it fall on my head a couple of times because of a mild breeze (somebody must have sneezed 20' away ;)).
Mounting two amps to my lid will definitely prevent it from staying open.
Peltiers..... Not arguing with anything here, I see what your saying about them, but how does it work in the thermoelectric coolers then?
As I mentioned my parents have an electric cooler that uses a peltier to heat or chill a heatsink, and a fan simply blows the hot or cold air around.
Now I do realize that all its doing is blowing cool air around in a small space, with no extra heat generated to counteract the cold, and as such the cold air, helps to further cool the peltier.
In the trunk it would be entirely different.
another thought is to put fans in my rear deck, to vent the trunk air into the cab, or at the very least, to simply put vents in my rear deck to allow the hot air from the trunk to vent into the cab, and cool air to get into the trunk.
All I would need to do for that is to cut holes in my rear deck fabric.... the holes are already there in the metal.
Now, the upside down mounting issue; For now i've got an Insignia 600W amp (NS-P200 kit) as well as a Dual 150W RMS 4/3/2ch amp (XPA4100).
I've looked inside the Dual amp, and its components are mounted to the bottom, facing up, so if it was upside down the stuff inside would be upside down also. I don't know about the insignia amp, but its probably the same.
I wouldn't have it mounted upside down so its really upside down, IE the top of the amp physically touching anything..... it would be hanging. So I get whats being said about that..... would seem pretty foolish to just flip it over and mount it upside down lol.
Im also thinking about maybe putting a channel in my fiberglass cover that will connect to the rear deck to pull the amps cooling air from the cab.
a temp. gauge is also another consideration to keep an eye on trunk and amp temps.
Its alot of planning, but ive got all winter to figure it out. There isnt much i can do in the snow :)
i am an idiot 
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Posted: January 01, 2009 at 9:39 AM / IP Logged  

If the trunk uses gas springs to hold it up, if you replace them they will fail again.  i discovered a fix for them when I got in an accident.  My gas springs were shot, I was hit in the side of the car, my sub enclosure hit the left spring and bent it, when the rear wheels of my car wound up in the ditch, the sudden decelaration slid the box and bent the other gas spring.  Upon opening my rear hatch, the bend in the shaft offered some extra resistance that actually held the hatch open.  So if you do have gas springs, open your trunk and pull the springs inward to put a slight bend in the shaft.  Not so much that you have trouble closing it but enough that it will stay up when extended.

DYohn 
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Posted: January 01, 2009 at 9:53 AM / IP Logged  
Hey I've given you my advice, but you do what you want.  Be sure to tell us how it all works out.  You'll need at least 15 amp power supply for each Peltier you try to use.
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ckeeler 
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Posted: January 01, 2009 at 12:50 PM / IP Logged  

bigjohnny wrote:
ok, couple of things here. first off, ckeeler, if I mount it to my trunk lid, I will have to get stiffer springs or shocks or something, because my trunk as it is, already has trouble staying open. Ive already had it fall on my head a couple of times because of a mild breeze (somebody must have sneezed 20' away ;)).
Mounting two amps to my lid will definitely prevent it from staying open.

i said ive never mounted one to a trunk lid, and i dont recomment it either. i was recommending under the rear deck in between the 2 rear speakers (if you have any there).

ckeeler 
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Posted: January 01, 2009 at 12:56 PM / IP Logged  
i am an idiot wrote:

If the trunk uses gas springs to hold it up, if you replace them they will fail again.  i discovered a fix for them when I got in an accident.  My gas springs were shot, I was hit in the side of the car, my sub enclosure hit the left spring and bent it, when the rear wheels of my car wound up in the ditch, the sudden decelaration slid the box and bent the other gas spring.  Upon opening my rear hatch, the bend in the shaft offered some extra resistance that actually held the hatch open.  So if you do have gas springs, open your trunk and pull the springs inward to put a slight bend in the shaft.  Not so much that you have trouble closing it but enough that it will stay up when extended.

if you go to a good parts store (not an autodork or a checkoff) a good parts man can look up your vehicle to see the part number off the lift support shocks your car has, then he can proceed to take out a book (yes folks, good parts people use books and not just push buttons on a keyboard to look up parts) and find that part number and see its dimentions and weight rating, then, use that same catalog to find another shock with the same dimentions and mounting ends with a different weight rating, almost any that you want. what an idea huh??

bigjohnny 
Copper - Posts: 293
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Joined: September 23, 2008
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 01, 2009 at 6:09 PM / IP Logged  
ckeeler: I thought you mentioned something about not needing to replace my lid supports.... must have gotten confused with i am an idiot.
Anyway, I dont have enough room width wise to mount my amps to the rear deck, its pretty small. also the speaker boxes will be sitting directly under it, which leaves only 1" space above the boxes.
i am an idiot: About the springs, I can open the book and check for myself which springs it uses, I have the dealership service manual for my car. But it doesnt use gas shocks.... its got some kind of weird rod that goes across the rear deck to each lid mount. It isnt very strong and I'd like to replace it/them anyway.
DYohn: I wasn't trying to contest anything stated, so i hope i wasnt taken that way, I'm simply looking for more infomation. I'm not set on using pelts, like i said, i'm really just trying to plan/research and gather as much info about my whole project as I can.
Pelts probably arent the best solution, but id probably still install a couple of thermal probes to monitor temps.
I have been considering a pelt to use as a form of heater to warm the trunk in the winter so i dont have to run my speakers cold.
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