Focal Beryllium BMW

got the armrest between the seats and screwed it onto a wooden plate.

This is the original remote controle that came with the radio.

Took it apart. First thing I did is take the eye (aiming to the radio) out of the remotecontrol (out of the printplate), and I will place it under the seat.

the meaning is the remote will glide out of the armrest.

you can see, I did a disc-job into the armrest

You also can see I bended some white alu plate.

remote control.

In the alu piece where I made this, I made an extra plate on the bottomside, fastened with one tiny screw.

Here you can see where the remote control will slide into. As you can see, I put some selfclitting vilt on the sides, and the bottom.

All of this has to go in primer.

The remote got it's color.

One thing to do still, is to paint the little screw (where it's tightened with) in silver.

This would be the innerview of the armrest.

This will be the new coverplate that'll come above the remote control.

On the left,you can see the Nokia mobile phone. Took this one for takin' pictures.

On the front of these toys, I made a little ditch, so you can get the things with your finger

Don't mind the dust.

this silver box will be under the mp4 player.

here the ears will be, and a lamp. So this also gets a good space and doesn't lay beneath my feet or something.

The amrest almost finished, and put back in the beemer.

On the bottom the little grey lip to pull out the remote control.

This is how it looks like when the remote is out. Easy to control now.

Pic with the armrest open.

The silver box, under the mp4

some other pics

So the armrest is finished and looks good to us.

The sides of the MDF had to fit the rubber of the trunk nicely.

After I made the MDF boards, i was afraid that it wouldn't look nice and that they would oversize.

I have been thinking things over. I forgot that i still have a set of realy ugly Focal crossover.

I can say that this looks much better.

The plexy boards were the filters used to be mounted on are now removed.

This board will be mounted on top of the other one

I made this because i didn't want the speakercables to be visible.

So the cables are guided from one side to another inbetween the 2 boards.

Filters mounted...

Here you can see that i have enough space between the board for the wires.

Than the time came to make a hinge. after thinking it over i came up with this.

I took a flat piece of iron, and welded a twist bit on the left and right side.

Then i made 2 other pieces which fit in.

Here you can see how i'm going to mount the crossover tray underneath the back shelf.

Here you can see a part of the tray where the crossovers will be mounted in.

On this picture you can see the tray while it is closing. The hightec stick you can see will be made out of carbon.

This is what it lookes like when it is fully opened.

Here i show you how far i'm going to allow it to open.

I'm going to cover the crossovercase with a piece of plexy. I usually allway try to use real glass, but because i want this one to bend a bit, i'm forced to use plexy.

I noticed that by heating it, it get's rough.

The ends of the plexy piece were pretty deformed, but i was able to fix this.

Then it was time to start on the big piece op plexy wich had to cover the entire crossover case.

than i heated it nicely so that it would easely bent.

Afterward i started polishing.

My plexy cover looks great, and has only cost me 7 euro.

I wasn't satisfied about the result i became by using the springs, so i've decided to use a motor instead.

The frame to mount the cross over tray also needed some extra attention to make it stronger.

As you can see, i've made a decent hinge.

These have been cut into several pieces.

Afterward i made a cover for the bottom of the trunk.

The beautifull curves a not visible on the picture.

This is the front view, for this i still have a cool trick up my sleeve, but more details lateron.

Here it shows that my side pieces are too long, but i did that on purpose.

On this pic i show you were i've stopped with the curver. the staight mdf piece will eventually become round. i really hate straight lines!

These 2 holes will be used to guide the speakerwires. I've made them big enough so that it doesn't create friction when the entire things moves up and down.

In the meanwhile i've reinforced the suspension of the cross over tray and spray painted it black

I've also modified the tray itself. As you can see, the alloy and plexi parts are no longer going all the way down.

I've also modified the curver here and there.

I created some nice curves on the side pannels so that they nicely fit te curver.

I've mounted a alloy bracket left and right xich will be used to hold the curver.

This is the minimum margin.

When opened, you see the small carbon border. I thing this is the nicest look.

Overall picture

The front piece of this set up will be mounted seperately. This will be a huge task!

Because i had to mill some parts, i've integrated my uppermill in wy workbench.

Afterwards i made a drawing on a 8mm MDF board

Afterwards i used an electrical saw to cut everything out.

The 8 curves have been sanded by hand.

Here you can see that i've glued a 5mm alloy piece to the MDF board.

Afterwards i've used the copymill again to mill everything nice and easy...

Once everything was ready i found it rather *****. I didn't like the result because it was too thin.

To obtain the same design as the grill on the subbox, i had to work magic.

First i made a board with a thickness of 8mm so that myuppermill couldn't flip over.

Then i've milled out the 2 parts. Here i've milled 3 mm deep.

Now this piece had the same look as the grill.

It took me about 8 hours to make this part.