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97 civic abs light from a cs396i


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howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: February 07, 2009 at 2:39 PM / IP Logged  
I couldn't be more concise, you gave the test results, you stated BLACK/ white gave you a reading as an ACC.,  well it isn't it's the starter.
hernnuts 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: January 31, 2009
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posted: February 07, 2009 at 3:24 PM / IP Logged  

Sorry I am a retard, I was testing the wires under the dash where they come out of the wire harness there. at that point there is a white wire with a small black stripe tests acc and that comes out of the same box as the yellow acc and the BLACK / YELLOW ignition.  I have since taken the ignition plastic cover off and tested it there.  At the iginition box there is a different wire that is black with a small white stripe labeled as starter and that tests as  a starter (i feel very dumb).  However the other white with a small black wire is also there labeled as "acc" and tests as acc with the key and nothing with the remote.  The yellow wire which on my plan says is the acc wire it is labeled as 160A, may be not quite the right number but it tests as acc.  I traced this yellow wire back and it has two different wires from the command start spliced into it, is it possible that one of these is meant for the white with a little black stripe wire that tested as acc?

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: February 07, 2009 at 5:12 PM / IP Logged  
First question, can you start the car normally without having to depress the clutch, if so skip the next part; if not read on. Flobee earlier made the point about a clutch switch, in this case the start lead from the remote start will go the output of this clutch switch, ie with clutch pushed home and key turned to start , one side which read zero will now give 12v+. This is where the start lead from the r/s should go. I was a little vague here and there are variations; also we don't get these nanny-state protection systems in Europe, I remember to make sure stick's in neutral before starting!  At switch, White is your 12volt+ input,  BLACK / YELLOW is ignition output,  BLACK/ white excepting the possible clutch switch is starter output,  Yellow is ACC output and WHITE/ black is either ACC 2 or IGN 2 output (can't remember which and for all practical purposes it doesn't matter). Some remote starts have a built in anti-theft/anti starter grind relay or relay outputs to go on the starter wire.  One side or wire is marked key side starter, the other side will be marked starter side. Make sure they are connected the right way round or the car won't start. To accomodate this they should have CUT the starter lead. It's not absolutely needed but you're better off with it connected that way. My personal guess is they didn't know which wire was ignition 1 and cut them till the engine cut out. This could bring on the warning lights. N.B Input and starter go out top the top of the fusebox, ignition, acc and ign 2 go to the lower right on the fusebox, at least they do in England. That only changed in 2001. That's it!
flobee4 
Silver - Posts: 585
Silver spacespace
Joined: January 02, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 07, 2009 at 5:25 PM / IP Logged  

Ok, That WHITE/ black wire in the ignition harness is your problem.  It is listed here as an accessory 2 wire:

http://64.85.6.121/diagrams/printpage.asp?ModelID=13580&MakeID=3

You need to get that WHITE/ black wire tapped into and powered by the remote starter as an accessory.  I'm not familiar with your remote starters wiring, but usually coming off the remote starter is - 1 wire for starter, 1 wire for ignition, 1 wire for accessory.  There will be a 4th wire that will be programmable some how to act as a second ignition or second accessory.  This could be selectable as a jumper on the remote starter brain or a programmable option using the valet switch. Look at your installation manual.

As for the starter wire at the ignition column(BLACK/ white). I probably would not worry about that wire, they probably hooked that wire up correctly where ever they made that connection.  Otherwise your car wouldn't crank and actually start, correct?  So its got to be that second accessory wire not being powered up by the remote starter. Hook it up and call it a day, good trrouble shooting on your part!

Frank

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: February 08, 2009 at 5:37 PM / IP Logged  
Just been reading through the posts again. Once the WHITE/ black is powered up on rem start it should eliminate the warning light problem.
hernnuts 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: January 31, 2009
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posted: February 18, 2009 at 8:20 AM / IP Logged  

Sorry I took so long to reply I was out of town for work.  So I found a manual for an auto start that is basically the same model as the command start I had with the wires ebing the same.  I has to swith the little chip to make the remaining wire act as an accesory wire.  I hooked this accesssory wire up to the second acc wire and yes it fixed the problem but did not shut the light off on its own.  This elimanted 5 of 7 codes.  There was another problem likely related to the original remote start installation, they had unplugged a 4 wire harness under the drivers kick panel that connects the abs system to the rear tire sensors, why they unplugged it I don't know.  Once this was also plugged back in the remaining codes cleared.  Thanks for all the help guys and let me be a lesson to all rookies BLACK/ white is not the same as WHITE/ black!

hernnuts 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: January 31, 2009
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posted: February 19, 2009 at 11:15 AM / IP Logged  
Holly shizzle I am having some more problems.  So after thinking we had everything fixed to due with the ABS, we drove the car and noticed that when stopping the abs seems to work fine until you are almost stopped, going about walking speed, and then it starts to go crazy.  The ABS dummy light was not on.  Took it into a brake shop this morning he took it for a drive and agreed something is screwed, checked all the wheel speed sensors and other parts and cannot find any problems and he thinks it may still be a problem with the remote start.  Any help will be greatly appreciated, going to snap!
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