689m

2006 Acura RSX Type-S Alarm: Clifford 50.5x Bypass: PKH34 Addons: DEI 689m Neutral Safety Problems: Immobilizer light keeps blinking.            Stock alarm goes off when remote started. The factory arm and disarm wires are connected to the alarm's arm and disarm wires. I am not using the factory arm and disarm output on the alarm. Did it that way because the harness for the factory arm and disarm output on the alarm is missing.

The loom you're missing is exactly what you need since the factory disarm disarms the factory alarm without unlocking the vehicle. It's no good tieing in your unlock wire. By the way yet again I must point out the irrelevance of the 689m to your problem.

dan7u, if I understand you correctly, you're saying that you've taped diodes onto the terminals of the male connector on the Clifford brain where the factory arm/disarm wires would normally be connected? Or have you used the lock/unlock outputs from the Clifford and diodes to isolate the "arm" and "disarm" on the vehicle from "lock" and "unlock" on the car, respectively? In the first case, this is simply not a good way to make a connection. The diodes will inevitably lose contact and not perform their function as required. Some solutions if you've done this, in descending order of how ideal they are. 1. Acquire the proper plug-in connector from Directed, eBay, a Directed dealer, or the place you originally got the alarm. 2. Use the (-) status output to activate the disarm wire(this will require a relay, capacitor, resistor, and movement of the PKH34's GWR input to the pink (-) 3rd ignition output). 3. Open up the 50.5x brain and solder wires to the header pins where they go into the PC board. 4. Order a connector and terminals from Mouser or other supplier and make your own plug for the wires you're missing here. If you meant that you've used the lock/unlock wires as arm/disarm, they probably don't have enough current to activate both functions on the car. Use a relay to fix this problem wired as follows: 85: (-) unlock output from Clifford(keep this isolated from the factory unlock wire with the diode you've already got). 86: 12V constant fused 87: ground 30: disarm wire on car Replace "unlock" with "lock" and "disarm" with "arm" for how to do factory rearm. Also as far as your flashing security light problem, read this.C Renner's Auto Electronix

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I meant the second part. Instead of using a relay, could I just find a harness and use that instead? Would that solve the problem of my alarm going off when I remote start?

dan7u wrote: Instead of using a relay, could I just find a harness and use that instead? Would that solve the problem of my alarm going off when I remote start?

It might or it might not. I've done several Honda vehicles where the factory alarm disarm output from the remote starter/alarm did not output sufficient current to disarm the OEM alarm, in which case a relay was necessary as well. If you get that harness, I'd suggest wiring a relay to it for disarm. Use the above pin configuration, substituting "disarm" for "unlock" on pin 85.C Renner's Auto Electronix

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chriswallace187 wrote: dan7u wrote: Instead of using a relay, could I just find a harness and use that instead? Would that solve the problem of my alarm going off when I remote start? It might or it might not. I've done several Honda vehicles where the factory alarm disarm output from the remote starter/alarm did not output sufficient current to disarm the OEM alarm, in which case a relay was necessary as well. If you get that harness, I'd suggest wiring a relay to it for disarm. Use the above pin configuration, substituting "disarm" for "unlock" on pin 85.

Both the stock alarm and the Clifford arm and disarm when I press the arm/disarm button on the remote. So you're saying that the factory disarm output doesn't get enough current when remote starting? If I'm understanding correctly, I need the factory arm/disarm harness so that the car will disarm the stock alarm before remote starting? And I would to hook it up to a relay if it's not getting enough current to do so.

I was in fact thinking that the factory disarm output wouldn't have enough current to disarm during remote start. You understand correctly, based on what you've said during the 2nd sentence of your most recent post. Note also that since the factory alarm will disarm right now when you press "unlock" on the Clifford remote, you might be able to press "unlock", "remote start", "lock" for the time being if you have any trouble getting ahold of that harness. The only thing that the factory arm/disarm output from the Clifford do, that the lock/unlock don't, is activate automatically with remote start initiation/shutdown.C Renner's Auto Electronix

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That's what I'm doing right now. I've seen a car remote start by disarming the stock alarm first, then remote starting, then rearming. So, once I get the harness, it will work the same? Is there anyway to do it without the harness?

As I mentioned above, you could use the (-) status output from the Clifford(presumably you have that connector) to activate a relay for disarm, and use the "2nd status/defogger" or the "(-) 3rd ignition" output to activate the PKH34. From this site: Obviously you would substitute ground for 12v at several points, but the principle of a capacitor, relay and resistor will accomplish what you need it to.C Renner's Auto Electronix

My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Anyone have an extra DEI H2 harness? It has 6 wires on it.