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tuning fb: car vs truck


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jmelton86 
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Joined: February 07, 2007
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: February 12, 2009 at 6:36 PM / IP Logged  

I've got a single Boston G5 (10", D4) sub in 1.5cubes @ 26.6Hz. This is in a 2dr '95 Cavalier. The lows are awesome, and the 'upper' bass is just fine, too.

I will most likely be getting a single cab '94 Ranger. I'd be doing a console box, either sub/port downfiring or sub-rear port-foward.

Will I be happy with the same tuning in a truck VS my car? Right now I do 135.1dB @ 35Hz legal (windows and doors closed) at the windshield on the termlab.

I've been advised by some to raise the tuning a good bit, to about 35-40Hz, and that I will still have the lows I crave. Was told that that low of tuning in a truck is pointless.

What should I tune to? Thanks.

2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001
j.reed 
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Joined: January 05, 2009
Location: Arkansas, United States
Posted: February 12, 2009 at 7:57 PM / IP Logged  

Im betting your sub is facing rear into the trunk lid now correct? IF so that allows the standing wave time to build before being sent forward. From my pesonal experiance it seems that going from trunk to a truck always seemed to make it sound like it was weaker on low bass than in a car trunk facing rear. If you fire rear in the truck it may have the same sort of effect. I always fired up or forward in a truck.  One quick fix would be to design it so you could have a removeable port. Thats way you could easily change tune by switching out ports. Also if you do comps as you have a TL score. You could do a SPL and a daily more SQ port.

tuning fb: car vs truck -- posted image.
jmelton86 
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Joined: February 07, 2007
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: February 12, 2009 at 8:25 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks, j.reed.

I am mainly trying to get peoples' opinions that have gone from a car to a truck with the same equipment.

2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001
soundnsecurity 
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Joined: November 10, 2008
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: February 12, 2009 at 8:51 PM / IP Logged  
jmelton86 wrote:

I've been advised by some to raise the tuning a good bit, to about 35-40Hz, and that I will still have the lows I crave. Was told that that low of tuning in a truck is pointless.

What should I tune to? Thanks.

i own a ranger, it is extended cab. and trust me that guy is dead wrong. if you tune your port higher you will only decrease your subs low frequency efficiency. right now i have an 18 filling the entire rear cab, but i have had more than a few systems in my truck. all the way from single 8s to 3 12s, ported, sealed, even one bandpass box. one thing i noticed when i had the bandpass box was when i faced it to the back wall, my low end bass response improved. now granted it was a pretty garbage pawn shop setup, but thats just something i noticed. another setup i had was 2 old JL W6's in a JL HO box. normally this should have slammed, but in my truck you could barely hear it. however, if you walk down the street, it got louder and would make my neighbors angry. the box i have my 18 in right now is just the opposite, it is very loud in the cab but if you step a few feet away from my truck with the doors open you can barely hear it.
i dont really know how to explain this in technical terms but what seems to be happening is a crazy relationship between the wave coming off of the sub and the wave coming out of the port. some boxes are louder when you are close to them and some are louder farther away. a ported box uses the rear wave reinforce the front wave, but depending on the design of the box this might not happen as soon as the waves exit the box. it may take a few feet of travel before the rear wave is in phase with the front wave, so until then the bass might seem weak because the port is acting like a second sub woofer that is just a little bit out of phase.
if you design your box with this in mind you can make it to where the front and rear wave are in phase almost immediately out of the box within a certain frequency range. if i were you i would tune your box as low as you have space for to reinforce your low frequencies as much as possible and have it all down or rear firing. also use something like dynamat on your rear wall because it is very flimsy and your doors. long story short it really all depends on how you build the box. i hope i explained this well enough and if anyone sees anything wrong with it or has anything to add please point it out because this is just what i can gather from a few years of observation and trying to make sense of some technical writings

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