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3200ls parrot bluetooth and 2003 g35 bose


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barrios35 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: February 17, 2009
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: February 17, 2009 at 7:56 AM / IP Logged  

Hi guys first time posting. Been across the net looking for answers hoping to find some here.

I have a 2003 G35 sedan with Bose, connected to the Pioneer AVIC D1. I did not install it so not sure what is back there. I am looking to add the Parrot 3200LS into the system.  I came across the 150 harness and think there has to be a more economic solution.  Maybe a combination of other harness that  would make it work? I don't mind cutting and splicing and running wires.  Any suggestions, pointers would be appreciate.

Ween 
Platinum - Posts: 1,302
Platinum spacespace
Joined: August 01, 2004
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: February 18, 2009 at 10:16 AM / IP Logged  

hi,

use the parrot kits mute output to interrupt the amplifier remote lead.  connect external speaker(s)..cell phone car kit style? to the 3200's speaker outputs.

mark

barrios35 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: February 17, 2009
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: February 18, 2009 at 10:31 AM / IP Logged  

Thanks.. If I used this

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-gF5M1ddzfYF/p_120BT7550/Nissan-Infiniti-Bluetooth-Wiring-Harness.html

  If I connect his one the result will be a loud call correct?  I can I cut and splice out of the harness instead mute the Pioneer? I can run the parrots output directly to a speaker in the car by passing the amp?

What does the 150 harness have a LOC in the middle box? Does anyone know?

Nissan Infiniti Bose/Rockford Adapter QCHBB-NI

(formerly HBBH-1)

nicestuff2 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: February 18, 2009
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: February 18, 2009 at 8:27 PM / IP Logged  
The Crutchfield harness is for non-amplified cars, you'll have a big Pop every time. Very annoying.
The box on the harness is a pre-amplified mute relay, it allows to mute all the speakers and avoid the pop. It is not cheap to design and make, therefore you have this big price tag. The choices you have are the one you mentioned and our PR370, ours is a bit less expensive.
However if you have Pioneer AVIC D1 installed for the head unit, neither one of these will work - they connect to the OEM stereo which you don't have. You have no other choice but to splice it in. This is how you do it with Bose amp and Parrot:
You splice inline BEFORE the amplifier, using 2 Ohm resistors (Bose speakers are 2 Ohm and Parrot gives 4 Ohm sound). The sound is supposed to enter from the Parrot female connectors side and leave on the male side. If you are not a professional installer, I'd seek qualified help.
Good luck.
speeedbump 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: February 25, 2009
Location: Arkansas, United States
Posted: February 26, 2009 at 9:23 AM / IP Logged  
nicestuff2 wrote:
This is how you do it with Bose amp and Parrot:
You splice inline BEFORE the amplifier, using 2 Ohm resistors (Bose speakers are 2 Ohm and Parrot gives 4 Ohm sound).
I'm not sure I understand what you're saying here. I know that speakers in the Bose system are 2ohm; the load seen by the Bose amp is 2 ohm. So if you put the Parrot in line after the amplifier and then put a 2 ohm resistor in series, then the Parrot will see a 4 ohm load. I haven't put a multimeter on it, but I'm sure that the input impedance of the Bose amp (or any other)is not a 2 ohms (I assume it is much higher). Therefore you'd need a resistor with a much larger resistance to pad the parrot volume.
The other issue I see with just putting a resistor in series with the speaker lines (regardless of whether it is before or after the amp) is that it will not only affect the Parrot audio signal but also the music or any other audio signal that is traveling from the HU to the amp or speakers. Your music would be quieter so you'd have to turn up the gain on the amp, then the Parrot would be too loud....vicious cycle!
I've got a Bose system, but I'll be putting in an aftermarket amp, so I've got similar problems. I could just put it in line after the amp. I'm also changing out the speakers with 4 ohm ones, so impedance for the Parrot wouldn't be an issue. I just don't like the idea of putting a high-power signal through the Parrot box and it's tiny wires. Is there a limit to how much power the Parrot box can safely handle?
Maybe I am missing something and don't understand how the Parrot works, but I'd appreciate it if you could set me straight. Have you successfully installed the Parrot with the resistors before the Bose amp?
Apologies for the long-winded post.
barrios35 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: February 17, 2009
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: February 26, 2009 at 9:48 AM / IP Logged  

I have spoken to Parrot Tech. They said not to install any resistors. I have some PDF's that they sent me on general installs with the amp. I can email you them if you would like. 

Here is what they said,

"For the wires coming out of the Bose that connect to the front channels, you will have to splice the wires and run them through the Parrot box, then out the the speakers. You simply can not tap into the wires, as this will result in undesirable audio sound. You should not have to use any resistors when wiring the system into your car"

 

speeedbump 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: February 25, 2009
Location: Arkansas, United States
Posted: March 02, 2009 at 12:39 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks, PM sent.
I'd like to hear if you get it working.

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