04 bonneville ignition switch wires

Does anyone have any experience working on 2000-2005 Bonnevilles? I'm trying to put a basic remote start on my friends car but i'm having a hard time getting at the ignition switch wires. We took the radio out and you can get a better view at them but still not good enough to splice into them. Does anyone know how to get the ignition switch assembly out so that we can get to the wires easier? There were two screws holding the ignition switch assembly to the dash which we took out and it allowed the ignition switch assembly to wiggle around but we couldn't get it wiggled out of the dash opening and into the space where the radio was at.

Also..... the starter, ignition 1, ignition 2, and accesory wires are said to be located in the ignition switch harness; that obviously makes sense because that is where they are on most any vehicle. The only thing i wasn't sure about was all the wires i saw coming off the ignition switch looked to be no bigger than 18 gauge wires. Can anyone that  has possibly done a remote starter install on a 2000-2005 series bonneville confirm this?

The easiest way is to pull the ignition switch out

I cant quite remember where it is at in the car maybe bottom left but there is a cylinder release tab in the ignition switch itself .  Look at arrow in picture.

If you put the key in the ignition turn it about half way and push in the bronze colored tab it will release the key cylinder then you can remove the ignition switch itself and work with the wires fairly easy. I used t-taps because they are low current wires to begin with but some people dont like them

When I did mine the DEI web site said to power all remote start connections from battery because the 12v supply at switch is low current

Hey, thanks so much Sparkie and Sprek. Both posts help a lot!     Yes i have read that power connections should be made at the battery rather than in the ignition switch harness. I have already ran 12 gauge wire from the battery through the firewall into the cab. I put a fuse holder about 6 inches from the battery. I had also planned to just use T-taps as, once again, the wires coming off the ignition switch didn't seem to be that big anyways. T-taps will be much more convenient. 

The hardest part now will be just identifying which wires are for the passkey 3 system and which ones are the ignition 1 and ignition 2. The PK3 system has 1 wire that  i need that is the same color as the ignition one or ignition 2 (according to the DEI 555G PK3 imobilizer bypass module). Does anyone know which pin in the wiring harness coming off of the ignition switch that the PK3 wires are in? I'll test regardless but if i know where i should be looking it will speed up the process.

I did my remote start in 2003 so it has been a while the bypass I used then was just basically a spare key hidden with an antenna loop so I didnt have to get into any of the pk3 wires. I do know that the wires shown in the picture above are for the pk3 antenna. If that helps

Also I would recommend using one of the new xpress kit modules if you are trying to add keyless or trunk pop. I had to run wires all over the car to do it when I did mine I dont recall a interface module being available then

Sparkie, I have always heard people say not to use quick connectors but noone is yet to actually explain to my why. How exactly will they lead to problems? if they fail, what causes them to fail?

Vibration, oxidation, and thermo/mechanical stress are some reasons, that can cause the electrical contact to diminish or fail.