96 ford tarus remote start

Looking for some help on an install of a Pro Start remote start unit model 3300 for a 96 ford tarus.  This is my firt time to attempt something like this, so as you can all surely remember your firt time and how labersom it was, I too need need a helping hand.  Please send any liks or dirrect text on the subject.  I do have the wiring diagram for this car, although the colors they indicate for this model and year do not match.  Most confused about the ignition wiring, and the three ignition outputs.  HELP.

|       ITEM      |     WIRE COLOR     |POL|       WIRE LOCATION        | |              12V|lt.grn/ppl or yellow|+ |ignition harness            | |          STARTER|RED / lt. blue        |+ |ignition harness            | |        IGNITION|RED / lt. green       |+ |ignition harness            | | SECOND IGNITION|                    |   |                            | |        ACCESSORY|gry/yel & RED / blk   |+ |ignition harness            | | SECOND ACCESSORY|BLACK/ lt green      |+ |ignition harness            | |       POWER LOCK|pink / YELLOW        |- |drivers kick panel          | |     POWER UNLOCK|pink/green          |- |drivers kick panel          | |       LOCK MOTOR|pink/black          |   |drivers kick panel          | |     UNLOCK MOTOR|RED / white           |   |drivers kick panel          | |    DISARM DEFEAT|pink/orange        |   |drivers kick panel          | | PARKING LIGHTS +|brown               |   |switch or fuse box          | | PARKING LIGHTS -|                    |   |                            | |       HEADLIGHTS|RED / yellow          |+ |headlight switch            | |     DOOR TRIGGER|BLACK/ lt. blue      |+ |under dash light *1        | | TRUNK/HATCH PIN|BLACK/ pink          |- |at trunk light              | |TRNK/HTCH RELEASE|pnk/yel or gry/red |*2 |at release switch           | | FCTRY ALARM ARM|                    |   |                            | |FCTRY ALRM DISARM|pink/white          |- |drivers kick panel          | |       TACHOMETER|yellow/white        |   |ignition coil *4            | |       BRAKE WIRE|RED / lt. Green       |+ |Brake switch or DKP        | |     HORN TRIGGER|PURPLE / orange       |- |*3                          | |           WIPERS|wht , dk. blue/org |+ |wiper motor *5              | | LF WINDOW UP/DN|blk/wht - tan/ltblue|A |drivers door at switch      | | RF WINDOW UP/DN|wht/yel - tan/ltblue|A |drivers kick panel          | | LR WINDOW UP/DN|yel/ltblu-gray/org |A |drivers kick panel          | | RR WINDOW UP/DN|yel/blk - RED / blk   |A |drivers kick panel          | Notes: NOTE: This vehicle is equipped with PATS (Passive Anti Theft System). Use DEI module 555F to over-ride during remote start. *1 Also found lt. GREEN/ orange (-) at headlight switch. BLACK/ orange at GEM (instrument fuse panel) will get all doors and hatch on wagon. Rests at ground through ignition, cut and diode isolate. *2 There are 2 wires at the switch. If the switch has a pink / YELLOW and a gray/red use the pink / YELLOW as a negative trigger. If the swich has a gray/red and a purple / YELLOW, use gray/red as a positive trigger.    *3 Four pin plug to right of steering column. *4 Coil & Harness behind intake manifold at back of engine compartment. *5 Also found at the fuse/relay box under hood.

If the wire colors do match up then there is a problem with the diagram. My first install was in a 96 Taurus. The diagram I got here was right on. Carefully read the installation manual before you begin and use a meter to verify each wire is correct. If this is your first time make sure you have a battery charger handy because you will most likely kill the car battery leaving the door open and key on. Go slowly and keep the wiring neat. It's not hard to do just verify each wire.

Most Tauri of this year do not come with the transponder key. How thick is your key? If the head is 3/8" thick plastic, it's probably got a transponder pellet---if it's 1/4" or less, or has no plastic on it at all, it's probably a regular one. Also, if it had a transponder, there'd be a red "THEFT" indicator in the instrument cluster, which you say you don't have. Yes, there are multiple wires of each color at the ignition switch, as you say. On a few newer Fords you might have to power up more than one of each---but not on your car. The RED / light green is ignition, and the gray / YELLOW and RED / black serve to power the climate controls. The BLACK/ light green is just for powering the radio, power mirrors, and so on----you don't need to power it up for remote start----why bother to have the radio blasting at 6AM in your driveway when you remote start the car? As I recall, that car has large metal pieces near where you'll be connecting your ignition wires. Lay duct tape or something over the metal, to prevent blowing fuses while you work. You can get the tachometer wire inside the car, which is easier than going underhood. Look at the part of the parking brake pedal where you push on it with your foot, then look directly above there. There are two black plastic pieces, about 2" square, with a gold bolt in the middle. There's a tan / YELLOW in one of those; that's tach. Getting a wire under the hood to do your hoodpin is a little bit of a challenge in this car. Directly in the middle of the firewall, down very low, is an unused rubber grommet that you can run your wire through. It's hard to find, but it's there if you look hard enough. This location will feed the wire under the center of the carpet, behind and above the heater ducts. Be careful to route your wire so that it doesn't get hung up on the pedals or steering linkage----either tie it securely up high under the dash, or run it under the carpet.

Okay, I'll try to answer all your questions in order. Hoodpin: The hoodpin is installed for safety. It would sure be a shame to have the remote start kick in while someone is changing a fan belt! Since it's your car, I can't tell you what to do---but be mindful of your mechanic's safety, or your own (if you do your own mechanical work). Whatever you do, at least don't forget to affix the warning sticker to a clean spot underhood. And if your remote starter has a control switch, put the switch in an easily accesible spot, so you can disable the remote starter before leaving the car with a mechanic. Also, I'm not familiar with the Pro Start brand at all, but sometimes the manufacturer will set things up so that installing the hoodpin IS required. For example, Bulldog and Designtech models both require you to raise the hood to get into their programming modes. The starting process: I'd say you've either got the wrong starter wire in the car, or you have the correct starter wire, but have used the wrong wire from the remote start. Try a little test: leave the key in the ignition, but in the Off position. Activate the remote start, and wait for the ignition circuits to fire up. Quickly, turn the key to the Start position to "help" the remote starter out...as soon as you hear the engine catch, quickly turn the key all the way back to the Off position. What happened? If the car is now successfully running under control of the remote start, and the heater is working, and none of the idiot lights are on...then you most likely have your main ignition wires right, and you can now concentrate your efforts on fixing the problem with your starter connection. Also, you didn't mention the brake wire---did you hook that up? That's pretty much a mandatory connection, because it is used to shut the remote starter off, after you've stepped into the car and driven off to work. But in any event, the remote starter should still start the engine up fine even without the brake wire, so don't worry about it just yet.