led marker lamps new

I recently attempted to swap my turn signal bulbs from standard bulbs to LED's.  Of course I got the rapid flash - shame on me for not considering this before hand.

I have done extensive homework online and learned that I need "load resistors" or "load equalizers" or "load simulators" - all the same thing.

The various components I found online are prewired, pretty shiny things with those god-awful pinch connectors and cost about $7 each.  They are 5ohm resistors that operate at 50watts.  Now, my preliminary math tells me that they will generate 2.52 amps of current or 32 watts in a 12(.6)V auomotive system.

$7 for a resistor is stupid, in my opinion, and I don't want the connectors anyways.  So I went to RadioShack and bought an 8ohm, 20watt resistor.  My estimation is that on 12.6 Volts, it'll allow 1.6 amps, or 19.8 watts.  This is close to the tolerance of the resistor itself.

My only real question is, do you guys think this will work?  I'm trying to simulate a bulb which is probably about 20 or 21 watts in power.  My fear is that I'll cook the resistor, which would only result in the return of the rapid-blink.  But I also think that it'll waste less power, which is a good thing.

Comments or suggestions are welcomed.

Jeff

Your best bet is to measure the resistance of the bulb you are replacing and get the highest wattage resistor you can find at that value.

I would imagine you are going to use your turn signals while the vehicle is running, so 13.8vdc is probably a closer value (I always use 15volts just for a little buffer).

At 13.8vdc you'll be drawing 1.725A which is  ~24 watts.  Your 8 ohm resistor will have a short life.

The other thing to consider is that at that current the resistor is going to get HOT.  You will need to make sure it has cool air around it and isn't around anything that is flammable.

The last load resistors I bought were 10 ohm 50 watt units that I paid about $7 a piece for and even those things got so hot you couldn't touch them.

Then let me toss this idea out here since all the other topics are closed.

Why can't I just splice in another socket and plug in another bulb?  I can paint the bulb with black, high-temp paint and then hide it behind a bumper or under the frame.  Of course, by the time it's all said and done, I'll probably still spend around $7 per-corner, but that still avoids the issue of dangerously hot resistors...

Is this possible?

Jeff 

I've always personally thought  using the bult was the best way, but there are drawbacks.

The bulbs themselves get really hot, so you don't avoid that problem.  You will also need high temp paint to paint them.  An alternative would be to wrap them in aluminum foil - I've never done this but I've heard it works really well.

what vehicle are you trying to do this to viperman? Grote makes flashers for vehicles that have had lights changed to LED so they wont flash fast.

or

or

or even this,

it's for my 2001 Dodge Stratus.  I really don't want the hassle of trying to get to the PCM and rewiring the whole thing to use a new flasher.

I have high-heat paint out the ying-yang.  Plus I can just dangle the socket inside the bumper so it won't touch anything.

EDIT - I don't see any way that I can wire an electronic relay into my car - everything is done internally in the PCM.  Rewiring it to work with a flasher would be a HUGE task.

I'm still leaning on the "blacked-out-bulb" idea.

Jeff

The Stratus coupe (being of Mitsubishi design) controls the turn signals through the powertrain control module.  I have access to all wiring diagrams through All-Data.  The stalk switch on the steering column communicates directly to the PCM, and the outputs to each corner is routed from there - even back to the indicators in the dash.  The powertrain control module also controls the fog light relay, high beams, headlights, etc.  I did manage to bypass it to operate the fog lights independently with the factory, momentary pulse switch.

Jeff