kicker kx 650.4

Home / the12volt's Install Bay / Car Audio / kicker kx 650.4 (

Topic Closed)

Welcome Guest :)

Members

< Prev Page Next Page > < Prev Topic Next Topic >

i am an idiot

Platinum - Posts: 13,677

This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: September 21, 2006

Location: Louisiana, United States

Posted: May 30, 2009 at 4:42 PM / IP Logged

Recheck the transistor with the black lead on the right leg. It should read around (.)600 when you put the red lead on either of the legs. What is the number on the transistor? I know I got the number from you earlier, but it must have been in a PM and I can not find it.

terry osborn

Copper - Posts: 54

This member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.

Joined: May 16, 2009

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: May 30, 2009 at 5:55 PM / IP Logged

With common or blk lead to the right leg of transistor and red lead to the left leg it reads .624. when red lead is moved to the center leg it reads 1.320 and climbs to 1.350.It takes about 3 seconds to get a stable reading. The numbers on the transistor are UTC B649A-CREOA.

I've noticed one thing about "Experts". When one shows up,someone gets hurt!

i am an idiot

Platinum - Posts: 13,677

Joined: September 21, 2006

Location: Louisiana, United States

Posted: May 30, 2009 at 6:04 PM / IP Logged

Try again with the red lead on right leg. Black lead on each of the remaining legs. If this does not yield a (.)600 or so on both, that transistor is bad.

terry osborn

Copper - Posts: 54

Joined: May 16, 2009

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: May 30, 2009 at 6:56 PM / IP Logged

I didn't get a .600,it was more like a 2.345 on both legs.I'll wait for the next instructions.By the way,you may be able to help with this one too,looking for the end caps for a 75.2 Fosgate B&G. Works great and looks brand new,just missing the caps.

I've noticed one thing about "Experts". When one shows up,someone gets hurt!

i am an idiot

Platinum - Posts: 13,677

Joined: September 21, 2006

Location: Louisiana, United States

Posted: May 30, 2009 at 7:32 PM / IP Logged

I doubt I have any endcaps, I do not take them in when I take an amp in for repair. It appears that the transistor is bad. Is there an electronics parts store in your area that may sell NTE replacement parts? If so an NTE 374 is the replacement for that part. You may be able to change it without removing the amp from the heat sink. If you decide to take the amp out of the sink let me know.

You are looking at the side of the transistor with the writing on it when determining left and right?

terry osborn

Copper - Posts: 54

Joined: May 16, 2009

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: May 30, 2009 at 11:23 PM / IP Logged

Yes Sir, Always looking at the side with the transistor part number when establishing left \ right for test. There probably is a local source for parts,but i buy alot of stuff from Allied Electronics and they are a full line Distributor for NTE so it should be easy access. If you have a way to change the transistor without removing the amp from the heatsink,by all means do share. Looks as though solder is plentyful on the backside.

I should have the new part by mid next week. Again, thanks for your time helping with this.I hope to return it one day.

I've noticed one thing about "Experts". When one shows up,someone gets hurt!

i am an idiot

Platinum - Posts: 13,677

Joined: September 21, 2006

Location: Louisiana, United States

Posted: May 31, 2009 at 3:57 AM / IP Logged

Heat the joints up and add just a little extra solder to each joint. Tilt the transistor front or back, whichever way will allow better access to the joints. Using a pair of small pliers, only to isolate your fingers from the heat. Lay your iron across all 3 legs of the transistor, moving your iron across them to get all 3 hot, gently lift up on the transistor. Do not pull hard, when the solder melts enough, it will just slide out of the holes. Now using either some desoldering braid or an Edsyn Soldapult (or any other brand of solder sucker) but if you have to buy one, get the Edsyn. Remove the solder from the holes and insert the new transistor.

terry osborn

Copper - Posts: 54

Joined: May 16, 2009

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: June 01, 2009 at 12:07 AM / IP Logged

When i solder in the new transistor,how much concern is there for over-heating the part? I'm not a novice in this dept and can make the connections rather quick,but had questions about how heat sensitive it might be. If it would be worthwhile to have some freeze spray or equivilent on hand. I don't have a de-solder pump,but i'll get one.How well does the solder braid work at wicking it away? I see the stuff everywhere,but never seen it in use.

I've noticed one thing about "Experts". When one shows up,someone gets hurt!

i am an idiot

Platinum - Posts: 13,677

Joined: September 21, 2006

Location: Louisiana, United States

Posted: June 01, 2009 at 5:49 AM / IP Logged

The braid works OK, you can get a small solder sucker for less than 20 bucks. Heat on the new transistor is not going to be an issue.

If you do have to remove the board from the sink, you will have to remove both the front and rear covers, then the 3 screws from the pre-amp daughter board. Notice the 2 transistor clamps under that board are different from the rest of the clamps. They need to go back in the same position. All of the transistors are stuck to the pink tape that insulates them from the heat sink. You will have to use a pair of pliers on the side of the transistors and rock the parts off of the tape. You may want to grind any sharp edges off of the pliers. Try not to penetrate or scratch the tape. There are several screws that mount the board to the heat sink.

The RCA and speaker terminal screws are not the same screws. Keep them separated so they go back in the same places they came from.

terry osborn

Copper - Posts: 54

Joined: May 16, 2009

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: June 02, 2009 at 9:33 PM / IP Logged

The transistor was simple enough to change out,didn't have to remove the board from the heatsink.I checked it afterwards and got the (.)600 you were seeking,and with leads reversed (.)600 again. With 12 v applied it powered up as expected. Is there anything else that should be tested or checked on the bench?

I've noticed one thing about "Experts". When one shows up,someone gets hurt!

< Prev Page Next Page >

Printable version

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

Search the12volt.com

Follow the12volt.com

Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.