94 honda civic door locks

the more sensitive setting would be ten. Also, that civic would have central locking, i can't remember civics of that age having a rocker control, the power lock module would be located in the driver door, the connections really are easiest here, in comparison to the back of the fuse box location, if your compustar has onboard relays then you can  set it up  to work the actuators, in this case you would only have to connect the driver door actuator and the rest is done, the actuator wires are RED / yellow and WHITE/ black i think, or you can check at the module in the door for the negative trigger, you really can't get any simpler, check with your meter to verify,

do you have a meter?

also post your wiring diagram for the compupack, i might be able to tell you which does what.

Changing polarity for the locks will not help you in anyway because the locks are negative.  I'm pretty certain that your ground is not the problem...you've tried different spots with the same result so we can eliminate that as a cause.  the only other thing it could be is the brain, electronics do fail and that seems to be the only explanation left.  The fact that it's a continuous ground and not a pulse on "activation" leads me to suspect the brain.  How long was it in the other car before you removed it?  is there a second unlock or possibly a disarm wire?  if you really want to stick with this unit then you'd have to test all the other wires coming from the brain and see if another wire possibly gives ground when you hit the unlock button.....yes, test EVERY wire since you don't have a wiring diagram.  Not sure about the warranty, call compustar and ask them.  If you're straight up with the customer...tell him/her everything you've tried to try to get this to work, they should understand.....bad brain!