hornet 742t 745t

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dx90

Member - Posts: 47

Joined: June 04, 2009

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: June 15, 2009 at 2:54 AM / IP Logged

Is it possible to turn off, unplug/disconnect internally if it needs, the shock sensor in the brain of the Hornet 742T and the 745T and for the alarm to still function OK?

I live on a main road here and every time a loud car or lorry/bus goes buy it sets off a lot of alarms with shock sensors in the street. So this is a problem for me.

I also get very strong winds up here which is also a problem as it hits either side of the car, depending on the direction.

Thanks

BMW E36 320I August build 1995

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: June 15, 2009 at 8:00 AM / IP Logged

Read the owner's manual.

dx90

Member - Posts: 47

Joined: June 04, 2009

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: June 15, 2009 at 9:48 AM / IP Logged

howie ll. Just read the manual.

It says that I can ask the dealer to switch the arm/disarm chirps off permanently. Do they use a Bit-writer to do this and can I do this myself?

It still leaves the heavy impact sensor switched on. Can the alarm still be set off by load noises/vibrations?

I really wanted an alarm around the £100 mark with either no shock sensors or at least, be able to disable them permanently. Can you recommend any?

BMW E36 320I August build 1995

dx90

Member - Posts: 47

Joined: June 04, 2009

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: June 15, 2009 at 1:50 PM / IP Logged

Does the Hornet 743T or the 745t have any adjustment for the sensitivity of the shock sensor?

I've read the manual and there's no mention of any.

BMW E36 320I August build 1995

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: June 15, 2009 at 5:27 PM / IP Logged

Again read the owner's manual or page 24 of the install guide. Using the remote will give you either chirp or silent arming again, RTFM. For my next post I will give you full instructions on install, complete with colours, do not ask again.

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: June 15, 2009 at 5:49 PM / IP Logged

Remove glove box 8 philips screws.

Behind glove box is a plastic housing on top is the body control module. Facing you from the left is one larger plug and 2 smaller quadlocks to the right.

Middle quad, pins 4 unused = lock +, GREEN/ black alarm, pin 17 blue/red, = unlock +. Blue/black on alarm, ignore BROWN / black, WHITE/ black, purple and PURPLE / black to 2.5mm red in loom behind the housing, follow the transmission tunnel to the firewall, there's the loom. Fuse at 3amps.

Right quad, for 2 door brown primary with silver dots, one contact for each door, DIODE together, 4 door brown primary with siver dots, secondarys, grey, blue etc. again, diode all 4 together, Join to green on alarm

Trunk (boot) coupe, behind carpet lining boot, near side, remove light fitting, to ease carpet removal, BROWN / white; saloon , pull seatback forward at n/side rear, look at grommet, coming back into car is a lead with the BROWN / white going up the "C" panel. That's it.

Hood (bonnet) switch look at shut panel in front above rad, there are two holes on driver's side. Match position of forward hole on left side, drill accordingly for hood switch, cut switch to no more than 1/2" (12cm) length,siren to forward down slope on wheel arch. Behind plastic housing at firewall on nearside is a grommet, pull down lower carpet edge to see it. Bring in leads and replace grommet. Seal under bonnet with water excluder or lithium based spray gease.

Indicators, set unit for neg on white lead, don't use diodes, join to BROWN / blue at hazard switch.

Ground to either existing grounding nuts on left side inside glove box.

LED and Valet switch to one of switch blanks adjacent to cig lighter. Remove clock housing and cig lighter panel, also gear surround to access this portion, once gear lever surround removed you can push up haz switch with a finger.

Power supply, red at loom already mentioned, ign cut, light green, 2.5mm same loom, starter, GREEN/ black 2mm, same loom. I'll post again on total close.

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: June 15, 2009 at 6:01 PM / IP Logged

Both units have total or comfort close for your windows, you have to programme this. I don't suggest a bitwriter because the first time you use it, you will screw up! The instructions are very ambiguous. As for the two way remotes, yes the LCD on the 480s are trouble, if you have the LED 2 ways, they work better. If you go for total close, place a diode from the lock wire to the unlock with the band towards the unlock, this will give you deadlocking on arm with window close and non-dealocking on ignition lock. Don't forget solder and sleeve every wire to wire connection, just bare the end of the GREEN/ black lockwire and "shove " it into pin 4, making sure it doesn't fall out when you push the quadplug home. All dead easy, TEST EVERYTHING I've told you, good luck and no more silly multiple postings please.

mikvot

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Joined: December 19, 2006

Location: Missouri, United States

Posted: June 15, 2009 at 6:01 PM / IP Logged

Show off! Lol

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: June 16, 2009 at 3:41 AM / IP Logged

Wasn't showing off, I've done literally hundreds of E30s, 36s and E46s. Notice how quiet I am when it comes to Rams, F series etc.

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hornet 742t 745t

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