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parts for my vr600 csxo crossover


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KarTuneMan 
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Joined: December 14, 2004
Location: Isle Of Man
Posted: July 07, 2009 at 11:57 PM / IP Logged  

i am an idiot wrote:
i am an idiot wrote:
Chances are there is no problem with the capacitors of your crossover.  It is normal for some component setups to turn the tweeter off to protect them when safe levels are exceeded.

I agree completely...

haemphyst 
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Joined: January 19, 2003
Location: Michigan, Bouvet Island
Posted: July 08, 2009 at 1:30 AM / IP Logged  
Ween wrote:
hi,
the crossovers are probably ok.  the small component above the W+ term is a PTC fuse...a thermal circuit breaker.  when it trips,(higher than designed for power input), it adds resistance inline thereby reducing the output of the tweeter.  when it cools off(resets), the full theoretical output is available.  haven't heard of them going bad but i'd think anything is possible.
hope this helps
The small component above the woofer is more than likely a bypass cap, not a protection device. Electrically, it's in parallel with the primary crossover caps. It's there to improve high-frequency response of the entire circuit.
Can you give us the number off that little yellow disc lookin' thing?
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Cpuneck 
Member - Posts: 15
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Joined: October 14, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: July 08, 2009 at 7:54 PM / IP Logged  
Yep, the number off that little disc is RXE-090. Also I've attached the response from JL Audio, interesting I thought...
Hello Clayton,
There is a polyswitch in the crossover that protects the tweeter from being overpowered. The response of the polyswitch is very much like what you're describing. After time and a number of triggers, the values on the polyswitch can change, they can become more sensitive. You have two choices, the polyswitch itself could be replaced or, bypassed. The value of the Polyswitch is:RXE 090. Or, to bypass it, just run a jumper between it's two leads. I'd suggest replacing it as it's obviously doing it's job....
Ward Benjamin
JL Audio, Technical Support
10369 N. Commerce Parkway
Miramar, FL. 33025-3962
www.jlaudio.com
954-443-1100 ext.2129
wbenjamin@jlaudio.com
Sooooo, where do ya'll think I could get a couple of these little boggers.
i am an idiot 
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Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: July 08, 2009 at 8:26 PM / IP Logged  
One of the things you learn when you have the most abusive clients on the planet.  Tearing stuff up South Louisiana Style.   When I turn my music up really loud, My Tickers quit playing.   I can't believe that you guys have never seen such a thing. 
Ween 
Platinum - Posts: 1,366
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Joined: August 01, 2004
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: July 08, 2009 at 8:46 PM / IP Logged  

look here...http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu7EFbsM1w0neRfX3mrvYIvHY3qDTbSCZ4%3d

should work just fine...i believe the RXE series is obsolete

Cpuneck 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: October 14, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: July 08, 2009 at 9:43 PM / IP Logged  
Well, if they would've quit playing when I first installed the system, I would've known, I need more speaker ;), but they use to sound bright, tight, and LOUD :-O
So, if this is obsolete, does that mean I need to solder a paper clip in there? <JK>, but seriously...
Ween 
Platinum - Posts: 1,366
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Joined: August 01, 2004
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: July 08, 2009 at 10:16 PM / IP Logged  

from looking at the data sheets of the above pieces, the RXEF should replace the RXE just fine...same specs..well pretty darn close

Cpuneck 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: October 14, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: July 09, 2009 at 5:42 AM / IP Logged  
Alright then, "I'll have TWO"... they're on order and should ship today. To bad, ~.80 cents in parts, 8 dollars in USPS shipping cost! Still, a bargain if it works!
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,674
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Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: July 10, 2009 at 9:04 PM / IP Logged  

You know those JL tech support guys, they will tell you anything.    Be careful when you remove the old ones.  If the new ones do not do the trick, paralleling the old ones on the bottom of the circuit board will give you better tweeter protection than jumping the device.

DYohn 
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Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: July 11, 2009 at 9:04 AM / IP Logged  

If it's a thermal fuse it's easy enough to test.  Just bypass it with a piece of wire and see if that solves the issue.  If so, replace it.  If not, it's something else.

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