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dc to ac converter fault


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ptero 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: August 06, 2009
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: August 08, 2009 at 7:11 AM / IP Logged  

Ahhhhhhh.  Wow. Hey, great info., iaai.  Thank you.  At the battery it is!  I'm gonna see if I can find everything I need at Lowe's or Home Depot today.  Shooting for taking care of the mod.' tomorrow.  Fingers and toes crossed....

Lady Tech

Ptero

ptero 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: August 06, 2009
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: August 08, 2009 at 9:47 AM / IP Logged  

OK, now for makin' sure I have the right materials, etc. for the mod.' t'morrow.  We're "country" 'round here - nothin' 'll be open on Sunday. So - gotta make sure I get everything to complete the job today. If you'd like to weigh in, again, I'd be most grateful.

  • SPECIFICATIONS WORKING W/:
  • The cabin firewall is >/= 5' from the battery. My intention is to mount the inverter on the console or on the floor or firewall near the console.
  • The inverter is a "Vehicle Power System Black & Decker 400W Power Inverter w/ USB Charging Port" Catalog No.: PI400AB
  • Even though for now I'll use the inverter primarily to power my laptop (uses a 90W power supply), I'd like to wire the inverter for its capacity.
  • -----------
  • PROPER MATERIALS NEEDED (?):
  • Wire: Correct guage and type (stranded, solid, copper, etc) and insulation (jacket)
  • Fuse: Type (slow blow or not) and amperage
  • Termination @ Battery: Best way to terminate @ the battery; best type of terminals to use
  • Termination in cabin: Best way to terminate in the cabin; best type of terminal to use
  • Cabin Mount: Mount the inverter on something between the cabin (e.g. block of wood, etc.) and inverter case?
  • ----------
  • MFGR RECOMENDATIONS:
  • According to the manual, this inverter is designed to support a load of up to 80W when using the DC accessory plug (to the cigarette lighter).
  • > 80W and </= 400W, it requires a direct connection to the battery
  • The mfgr manual calls for #6 AWG wire for </= 6' and #4 AWG wire for up to 10'
  • The fuse called for is a 35ANL (the trick is going to be finding ANL fuses around here - I don't think Lowe's or Home Depot is going to carry them...)
  • ----------
  • BTW, I found a nice write up on basic car wiring and fuses HERE.  (didn't know what ANL fuses were)
  • I tried to get to Black & Decker's site for more info. on the inverter but they're apparently down.

Thank you,

Lady Tech
Ptero

i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,714
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: August 08, 2009 at 10:15 PM / IP Logged  
You will not find an ANL fuse rated at 35 amps.  They do make Mini ANL fuses but I have no idea if they come in 35 amp ratings.  Most of those inverters are between 80 and 90 percent efficient.  At 12 volts assuming 90 percent, it will pull less than 40 amps of current at 400 watts out.  A 10 Ga. wire will be fine.  You should be able to find a fuse holder with a 10 Ga. wire already attached to it.  Maybe not on Sunday, but you should be able to find one.  Using it to charge laptops will not stress a 30 amp fuse at all. 
Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB
ptero 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: August 06, 2009
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: August 09, 2009 at 6:04 AM / IP Logged  

Thank you, iaai.  Apparently the mfgr is ill-informed - having called for a 35 ANL fuse.

NP. I found an inline mount that takes 30-80 amp Maxi's @ WalMart yesterday.  The mount's in a water proof enclosure - made to be under the hood.  Closest thing I could find for what I need so, I think 'm gonna go w/ that using the 30-40 amp Maxi.  I can easily change that out later - the hard part will be running the wire.

Lady Tech

Ptero

i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,714
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: August 09, 2009 at 7:02 AM / IP Logged  
Just make sure you keep the wire off of the exhaust manifold and any belts or moving parts under the hood.  Also keep it away from throttle, brake and steering linkage inside the cabin.  Depress and turn the above 3 items while looking under the dash before you decide on a route for the wire. 
Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB
ptero 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: August 06, 2009
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: August 09, 2009 at 8:34 AM / IP Logged  

Thank you, iaai.  I really appreciate all your helpful advice and instructions.

Well!  I just looked under the hood and there ain't no way on God's green earth I'm gonna be able to get @ that firewall to pull that wire thru. The firewall's set way back from the windshield-end of the hood behind a whole mess of stuff - well outta reach. 

"T' h**** w/ that!" I says to mahsailf.  I'm gonna take it down the road to my mechanic 1st thing t'morrow mornin' and have him just get the wire through the firewall for me (following your instructions) then I'll do the rest - dress and terminate, etc on both ends.  He's got a lift an' he knows how to take all that mess apart (if necessary) an' get it back t'gether right.  I know my strengths as well as my limitations.  Ain't no sense in killin' myself - or my van - tearin' stuff apart I know nothin' about to get at the wiring harness @ the firewall. 

So, I'm off to Wally World (WalMart) and Lowe's to get the wire, fuse mount, fuse, etc.

Lady Tech (**definetely NOT a mechanic**)

Ptero

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