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battery, cap, ho alternator or all 3?


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DYohn 
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Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: August 22, 2009 at 3:15 PM / IP Logged  
Ok, you have chosen well.  The EVs and the Beymas have nearly identical sensitivity ratings, so they should work well together.  I recommend using a 3rd order crossover (18 db/oct) at about 500-600Hz from the woof to the mid, and then cross at about 5KHz from the mids to the tweeters.
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e_lsas 
Member - Posts: 10
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Joined: August 21, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: August 22, 2009 at 4:21 PM / IP Logged  
thanks, is there anyone who sells these crossovers? or do you have like a parts numbers list so that i can purchase everything and make it myself?
also i bought 3 optima heavy duty deep cycle yellow tops and a 200A alternator for the system to install them independent from the stock alternator and battery.
its always better when you do it yourself!!!
DYohn 
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Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: August 22, 2009 at 4:48 PM / IP Logged  
You say you have a Clarion crossover.  What model?
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e_lsas 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: August 21, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: August 22, 2009 at 5:05 PM / IP Logged  
Mcd360 clarion
its always better when you do it yourself!!!
DYohn 
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Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: August 22, 2009 at 5:48 PM / IP Logged  
Unfortunately that crossover is not sophisticated enough for your needs.  You need an 4-way electronic crossover, or a 3-way that does not have a dedicated subwoofer channel.  Something like the old Lanzar OPTIX series, if they are still made.
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e_lsas 
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Member spacespace
Joined: August 21, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: August 22, 2009 at 10:10 PM / IP Logged  
Ok I see. But why a three way? Is it because of the beymas, the ev's and the tweeters?
I know the 3sixty.are has a digital crossover for each ch. Wouldn't it be possible to lets say control the tweeters from there and the ev bayma and sub from the clarion? Or is there another reason why it doesn't cut it?
its always better when you do it yourself!!!
DYohn 
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Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: August 23, 2009 at 12:23 AM / IP Logged  
The 3sixty includes a low-pass crossover that generates a subwoofer output.  The full-range output from the 3sixty then feeds the rest of the system.  If you're building a 3-way system (woof, mid, tweet) then you either need to provide an active crossover and three amplifier channels per side, or build a passive crossover for it.  Your Clarion also generates a subwoofer low-pass that cannot be adjusted to a high enough frequency to use with the EV woofers.
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e_lsas 
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Member spacespace
Joined: August 21, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: August 23, 2009 at 1:08 AM / IP Logged  
Ok I understand. So in essence the sub portion of the clarion serves me no purpose. But it wouldve been hard to get a three way xover for two mids n tweets. Is it possible to run the ev's from the rear out of the xover and the beymas from the front output and just have the tweets come out of the 3sixty2 center output utilizing its internal xover to adjust it n the mids controlled at the clarion? Or would it just be better to purchase another xover for the EV's?
its always better when you do it yourself!!!
e_lsas 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: August 21, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: August 23, 2009 at 10:15 PM / IP Logged  
ok nevermind. i found that Lanzar crossover you were talking about and i went ahead and purchased it. its the Lanzar OptiX10 its got a front out, front mids out, rear out, rear mids out and sub output... it separates the mids from highs into two different outs from the single front/rear inputs respectfully. i thik this one would do me great and its a pretty decent price too. i guess ill just sell the Clarion i already have.
its always better when you do it yourself!!!
jeffchilcott 
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Joined: April 11, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: August 24, 2009 at 7:28 AM / IP Logged  
Well Im looking at it like this.   Your sub amps alone even if they are overrated at going to pull a ton of current.
You have 4 amps that should at least produce 1000-1200WRMS each.    Looking at 4800 WRMS you going to draw in the neighborhood of 600 Amps of current, this is all just ball park figures.
Give you other amps some power, plus run the vehicle and your looking at 700+ amps of current draw.
I would get ahold of a reputible alt company like mechman, Irragi, High OUtput alts, ect and find out if they would offer a dual 250-300 amp alt setup for your vehicle.
Forget running a dedicated audio power source, just more work, and I doubt you going to get 3 alts on that motor without a TON of fab work.
Thats a basic start, I would suspect if they can get you the correct brackets you looking at about $1000 for the dual alts and brackets.
Batteries, The Kinetik 3800 is a great battery!   If you were looking at 3-4 of these it is a great storage battery.   I would run your dual alts to one of these under the hood and then run to the others in the back.
You also need to run more then 1 run of 1/0 wire to the rear, if you do end up pulling more then 300+ amps dependant on length of wire, but you will be at the max limits of a single run of 1/0 wire
2009 0-1000 Trunk WR 154.0DB 2009 1001+ Trunk WR
2007 USACI World Champion
2007 World Record
2006 USACI Finals 2nd Place
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