pull solenoid

Home / the12volt's Install Bay / Car Security and Convenience / pull solenoid (

Topic Closed)

Welcome Guest :)

Members

Next Page > < Prev Topic Next Topic >

number2

Copper - Posts: 73

Joined: December 31, 2008

Posted: August 24, 2009 at 11:08 AM / IP Logged

I bought a cheap power trunk kit to put in my Camry and use with my alarm. With the size of the pull solenoid I thought that it would pull so hard it would break apart the locking mechanism. But its so weak that I cant even route the cable around more than a 30 degree angle or it wont move at all. I can engage it and with it on pull the cable out with little effort.

Are they usually this weak? I have it hooked up with a relay controlled by the aux output and a pos wire ran back to the solenoid and neg to a ground point in the trunk.

KarTuneMan

Platinum - Posts: 7,056

This member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.

This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: December 14, 2004

Location: Isle Of Man

Posted: August 24, 2009 at 12:43 PM / IP Logged

SPAL makes a door popper with 40lbs. of pull.

Then your sure to break something! I wanna say they have 11 to 15lbs. of pull, wich in most cases in plenty!

Maybe get rid of the "cheap" one, and get a "better" one!

ALSO... cut the cable, as to have a shorter run. In my civic it's 3 inches. (it's an LX without factory trunk pop)

number2

Copper - Posts: 73

Joined: December 31, 2008

Posted: August 24, 2009 at 1:03 PM / IP Logged

I have it mounted in almost a directly in line and the cable is maybe 3" also but it only pops open abut 30% of the time. Do you think a door lock actuator attached to the bar that pulls on lock from key cylinder would work??

Mark Mizenko

Copper - Posts: 460

Joined: October 13, 2004

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: August 24, 2009 at 1:43 PM / IP Logged

Are you getting enough power to the solenoid? You cant run 20' of 24Ga to it, Most all of the trunk pop solenoids are "cheap" ones. But still all work fine.

number2

Copper - Posts: 73

Joined: December 31, 2008

Posted: August 24, 2009 at 1:54 PM / IP Logged

Mark Mizenko wrote:

Are you getting enough power to the solenoid? You cant run 20' of 24Ga to it, Most all of the trunk pop solenoids are "cheap" ones. But still all work fine.

I think I used 18 gauge with 2 splice points between the solenoid and relay. Do you I need thicker? Every trunk pop kit I looked at looked like the exact same thing so I just went with the cheapest.

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: August 24, 2009 at 5:49 PM / IP Logged

Door actuator has about 1/3 power of a pull solenoid, also it has to return, but NO BENDS, use "p" connectors to Tie down the cable, minimum play, adjust the solenoid's body and position, I run a mile from fitting therm, 1 plus to wire up, whole day to get it to work right!

Mark Mizenko

Copper - Posts: 460

Joined: October 13, 2004

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: August 25, 2009 at 11:42 AM / IP Logged

Try powering the solenoid up right at the battery, does it have a "wack" to it now? Or run another power cable out to it and see if more power takes care of it.

Also, you need a little slack in the cable, dont make it so it's tight when it's at rest.

number2

Copper - Posts: 73

Joined: December 31, 2008

Posted: August 25, 2009 at 2:06 PM / IP Logged

Mark Mizenko wrote:

Try powering the solenoid up right at the battery, does it have a "wack" to it now? Or run another power cable out to it and see if more power takes care of it.

Also, you need a little slack in the cable, dont make it so it's tight when it's at rest.

I was screwing around with it last night I think a big part of the problem is the length of the amount of pull is way too short for the locking mechanism. Its less than 1/2 inch. I had it rigged up to pop right at the slightest tug but still worked sometimes and the rest of the time I had to push down on the trunk lid to get it open.

Im in the process right now of rigging it up to the bar that pops the lock from the key cylinder. It seems to have less resistance and a shorter pull. Its been working 3 out of 4 tries so far so it might just need some adjusting.

Or maybe the power to it is inconstant. If this doesn't work Ill pull it back out and try it connected right to the battery.

Mark Mizenko

Copper - Posts: 460

Joined: October 13, 2004

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: August 25, 2009 at 2:38 PM / IP Logged

You need that slack in there, so it kinda "snaps" the cable, not so much of a pull, like tug of war.

And you need to provide it with a good amount of current.

number2

Copper - Posts: 73

Joined: December 31, 2008

Posted: August 25, 2009 at 4:10 PM / IP Logged

Mark Mizenko wrote:

You need that slack in there, so it kinda "snaps" the cable, not so much of a pull, like tug of war.

And you need to provide it with a good amount of current.

That Makes sense. But how much pull do they usually have? This one gives about 0.4 inches from top to bottom. Not any room for slack where the cable coming from the lever inside the car gives well over 1" of pull.

Next Page >

Printable version

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

Search the12volt.com

Follow the12volt.com

Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.