12 type r custom vented box

i have $70 to spend. i have no saw/table saw or a nail gun. i do have a drill and basic tools. i think Home Depot can do all the cut outs but they cant cut the round hole for the sub. and i can just do all the gluing and nailing. i will try to find a lumber place for the round hole. if Home Depot can do all the cut outs and i get that round cut out, im pretty much golden right? btw, i want it to be maximum loudness for my car but still have some sound quality. audio shops around here charge $100-$400. im trying to do this all by myself so i can save as much money possible and also to gain some experience. anyone got any tips? thank you.

It will pay in frustration alone to have all of the right tools. Not to mention the materials saved if you minimize mistakes. I built my enclosure out of 3/4" MDF for my 12" DVC Type-R. The MDF will run about $25/sheet. (8'x4') Get a Phillips screw bit for your drill. SCREW the enclosure together with sheetrock crews - at least an inch and 1/2 long. Use silicone RTV sealant or liquid nails to seal all seams in the box. Get and use a circle hole saw to punch your port hole. Get and use a sabre or jigsaw with wood blades to cut your driver hole. I found a rotary dremel tool with spiral saw blades helpful to shave the cut-outs quickly and evenly for exact fit of the driver because the basket on that speaker is a little funky shaped though a wide enough round hole will do fine. Get and use a roll of rope caulk to put a double layer seal around the lip of the driver's hole. Use leftover liquid nails to glue and seal your port tube in the hole with at least a half twist to seat the bead. Nailing is not that strong and though is structurally sound, the vibe of that speaker pounding away can make them work out of the box. A countersink bit to flush your screw heads to the box walls will keep snags and cuts at bay. Place screws no further than 6" apart on a side and pre-drill the holes with a pilot bit to prevent splitting of the MDF on any corner or edge. A little care and forethought will make it fit, hit and look pro. :D Life is too short to build slow computers or weak audio!

dang that sounds confusing what you just said. what do i need to buy? do glue then screw?

Buy a circle saw for the outside diameter of pipe that you are using to make a port with. Mine was made from 4" PVC foam sewer line so i had to find a saw that was a little tight and small - but the dremel tool with a spiral bit shaved the sides of the hole to make it larger. Buy a countersink bit. These make dimples that allow you to recess the screw head flush with the MDF walls. Buy a 1 LBS box of 1.5" sheetrock screws. Buy a jigsaw w/wood blades. Buy a Phillips screwdriver bit for your power drill. Buy either liquid nails or RTV silicone to make seals with. Pre-assemble your box to drill your pilot holes where the screws will go. Countersink the holes w/countersink bit. Apply a bead of glue/RTV/liquid nails along the edges of where the MDF meet *then* put screws into the holes you pre-drilled. Run s bead of glue/RTV/Liquid nails along all inside corners and edges and allow to dry for 24 hours before stetting your woofer in the box. Also seal the terminal cup(s) with glue - even if ported, got to make the box air tight! A good beginner's guide is here. If you can do it yourself and get it done right, it will more than pay for itself. Snd any job is a good excuse to pick up new tools. :DLife is too short to build slow computers or weak audio!

im not trying to buy additional power tools. i just need tips on how to glue/screw the wood together thats all. for example like doing the port and all that.

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