The remote start only works with Engine Checking Off, or Voltage Sense. I connected the tach wire to the camshaft position sensor (+) RED wire at the ECU. Now the LED will not illuminate at all when performing tach learn in the Tach mode. Even after resetting the tach mode and in either jumper position. For now I'm leaving it in the Engine checking off mode until I receive some suggestions on which vehicle wire to hook the tach wire too. I have a feeling it's the (-) side of any one of the ignition coil wires. I don't like splicing into wires not knowing if it's going to work or not. I always use a DMM to confirm the input/output. DEI's installation manual is very frustrating to say the least. It's missing lots of information. It needs to include the signal values for all of it's wiring. This would avoid splicing up the nice factory wiring.
I have a problem with the 2-way remote transmitter. Brand new out of the box. The AUX button ( first button on the side of the remote ) doesn't work unless you press and hold it very hard with your finger nail. This takes multiple button presses to get a response. It's a cheap piece of junk. If only I would have known this before spending days installing the system. Using the 1-way remote the AUX button, and it's functions work flawlessly. The tiny buttons on the side of the 2-way remote are of a poor design. The function button on the 2-way works most of the time but still needs to be pressed very hard. You have to wait just the right amount of time before pressing it a 2nd, 3rd, 4rth time etc. Or else there is no response from the remote. If you wait too long, any bit longer then 2 seconds the remote resets which is very frustrating when the button is not responding correctly in the first place. Has anyone experienced this problem? What is the fix? New remote I presume.
Because it took a while to gather all of the necessary components. Bypass, relays, solenoids, diodes, connectors, wires, sensors etc. Waiting for all of the parts to arrive. The installation manual was incomplete, and difficult to understand some parts. The install was complex, and time consuming. It's been 30 days sense the purchase date which is past the hassle free replacement time frame of the ebay distributor. How could it be new just out of the box, and past 14 days from the purchase date? Simple answer DIY DEI 5901 install.
Problem with the internal shock sensor. I have not been able to trigger the shock sensor zone. With the system armed of course and waiting a few minutes to be certain the alarm is armed. I have pounded on all of the windows, glass, and frames with no response. I have tried the following sensitivity settings ( default 7 ), 15, 0. I think 15 is the most sensitive position but once again the manual in unclear on this. Does anyone have the answer to this? And because I can't get the sensor to trigger the alarm how would I know? I even tried sitting inside the car with the system armed and all of the windows, doors, hood, trunk closed. I pounded on the dash, steering wheel, and even around the brain and nada. My external sensors tilt, and glass break sensor work great. Any door when opened triggers the alarm as well as the hood and trunk. They all report to the correct zones. I have installed the brain high up under the dash to a metal bracket that is welded to the dashboard frame. I used 3M permanent mounting tape. There really isn't room to even work under the dash of this vehicle. It's amazing there is any space at all to mount this brain. In fact I'd rather install an additional external shock sensor then relocate the brain. Mounting it any other place would require zip ties to a wire harness and would not be a very secure way to mount a big module. In the install manual it does mention proper positioning techniques for the brain. And to avoid metal but that was really my only choice for a clean install. I think the internal sensor is faulty. Judging by the quality of the rest of the alarm system. How else can I test the internal shock sensor?
What is the most ideal object to mount the brain too? The internal shock sensor is a bad idea. I'm sure it's fine if a shock sensor receives shock as it's engineered to do so. However the Brain shouldn't be subjected to shock right? This could damage the delicate micro electronics.
The internal temperature sensor is another bad idea. My reading is not accurate. Indoor and outdoor temps are two different worlds. Ideally an external sensor should be used for the rear defroster activation. Keep in mind wherever you install the brain is where the temperature is being measured. If you install it on or near anything that retains or emits heat or cold then you will get a false reading. Stay away from the HVAC box, evap, and heater core including any lines/hoses. In some applications with limited space it may be difficult to mount the brain away from the HVAC system. The indoor temperature sensor should be mounted in the middle of the vehicle like the center console, or underneath a seat away from all hot and could sources.
Your feedback is appreciated.
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