front and rear strobes

sparkyssb...

I wish i could tell ya how they work or how they are wired to my car. I have looked through the Haynes diagrams and the Chiltons...neither provide anything for DRL's. From what i know, this running light circuit was for canadian models only as they arent in the US versions...ggrrrr.

When i received my wig-wag unit, they included 2 diodes, one for each high beam as they are all on one circuit. There are 3 relays for the DRL's and one for the high/low beam circuit...as far as i know.

Wish i could get the diagrams for it but it seems near impossible

hey sparky ssb

look way on top at one of the post replies that i first listed. It has the website where you can order the actuall one for your car with or without daytime running lights. The only reason I posted this reply was to find out if anyone knew the actual wire hook up including the diodes. I have put these on my former toyota pick-up which has a neg. ground hook up on the lights. Meaning in which when I had my long beams on they shoot to ground turning the wig-wag system off. When turned to normal operating with low beams that would turn to positve turning on the wig-wag causing the high beams only to wig-wag. This works the same with or without daytime running lamps. It basically works the same way. If you spent about $40 in parts thru the website you can buy the same unit for your car with quick connects for about the same no cutting or anything. I know there has to be a cheaper way to do the same thing. I know that there was only 2 relays involved with diodes for the neg. ground systems(imports mostly) If anyone attemps to hook this system up please refer to that chart to know what type of system you have. The one I use to have were molded together somehow where I could not get them apart to find out the hook-up. Again if anyone could help me in finding out the hook-up i would appreciate that. Thanks everybody! I hope this helped out a little bit.

I looked thru my magazine and found that the actuall price for my car for the multi pattern flash which is two flashes per side then both lights turn on then off and back to the two flashes per side running for 54.99 for the front with quick connects no cutting. Now for the one without the quick connects its 10.00 cheaper. For the back of my car it's 49.00 again with the quick connects. Now the real simple ones like just wig-wag which is one beam flash then the other that runs about 20.00. These multi pattern are real neat and new. I've seen them down here on a cheif fire truck. I know we can find the cheaper way to do this so we all can enjoy them.

Thanks

Sound Pressure,

Well, I dont even think it's just two relays with a couple diodes hooked up....I have installed the Galls version of the mulitpattern before and yes, two relays come molded together.....one for the TURN ON LEAD (the small amount of power from the switch which will flip the relay so that it takes the + juice it actually uses to power the circut) And the other is to make the + juice flow between a 'left and right channel'.  Well, in order for the second relay to know that it should switch on or off for the different 'channels', it needs to have a circut to apply power to turn that relay ON or OFF.  (Thus the relay has a normally closed switch prong and a normally open prong) This circut would be designed either like a TURN SIGNAL FLASHER (electronic parts), with an ON,OFF,ON,OFF positve flow (the WIG-WAG pattern) or designed with other electronic parts that give it that particular flash pattern you are looking for. 

So...to make a long story short (LOL) inside the molded part of the wig wag system, there are electronics (more than diodes) to make up the REAL wigwag mulitflashing circut.  The relays just take it over from there to power the lights....

For the multi-pattern, you are better off purchasing one from Galls unless you have an electronics degree and know which IC's,  transistors, and capasitors to use to make the circut......

I don't think anybody would able to construct that complex flash pattern using just relays and diodes. If anybody knows how, and proves me wrong, god bless ya....go work for NASA... :-)

Thanks Sparkyssb,

I kinda had a huntch that it would have to be something else. The simple wig-wig I had only showed the two relays, I tried tearing it apart to find out what else is inside that makes it work but it was to difficult to break because of the mold. I've built some simple circuits before using a 555 timer IC chip which you can turn the flaher up or down in speed hooking up a potentiameter. Then again it would require more circuitry as you say to get that multi-pattern that I am looking for. Oh well it was a good try and a good idea. Maybe I'll order one and try to pry it open to see the actual circuit, if i'm able to clean up all the molding around it and post here.

How about the rear system which is just wig-wag between the stop and reverse lights?I'll see what I can do and give you guys an update.

Thanks

Hey everybody I just received the diagrams to the multi-pattern flasher system and for the rear traffic backer. Hopefully we can figure something out from this, this should help us a little bit more understand it. I will be posting them soon.

Thanks

hello room,

i just received and installed the front multi-pattern flasher which consists of 3 flashers, wig-wag,fast backer, and multi. i installed them earlier today. they are great!!!

you have to cut from the passengers side high beam. keep in mind that i have daytime running lights so they do work for the system. as i was saying you have to make a cut from the high beam on the pass side 8 to 12 inches from the light. you would connect one wire to the lead going back to the high beam. next you would connect the other wire going back to the other high beam. it has a groun hook up, and 12 volt hook up. then there is a swith to hook to and 12 volts to apply at the switch. it also has a wire that you would either hook to parking lights for those states in which if you were a volunteer after dark it will not allow you to flash. if not then you can either hook it to grond or tap it off. i am still trying to find someone at that company that can help me find the actuall inside diagram of the circuit and what it consist of. it looks very simple of only 2 relays, but theres got to be more in there. hopefully i can get that diagram for everybody.

thanks

Well, I finally made a diagram for a headlight/taillight circut.  You can view it at the below address:

http://www.sparkyssb.com/newheadtail.gif

This will allow you to run the back flashers and front flashers on one easy to make circut.  K5 turns on the back flashers AND IF K6 is hit while K5 is on, the front high beams will wig-wag.  Brake and Backup lights alternate and left and right high beams alternate.

SO....if you wanted only the front wig wags on without the back flashers going, this ISN'T the circut for you.  (My thinking is that if you have the front flashers going, you would like the back ones going also. )

Now, here are the specs.

K1=Any electronic turn signal w/+ and - inputs (the only load on this is the back-up lights!!)

K2=10A SPDT Relay  (Radio Shack 275-248)

K3=10A SPDT Relay  (Radio Shack 275-248)

K4=Any 12V LED or light

K5=Heavy Duty SPST Rocker Switch (Radio Shack 275-690)

K6=Heavy Duty DPDT Rocker Switch (Radio Shack 275-691)

Diodes=Rectifier Diodes rated at 6 Amps - 50PIV (Radio Shack 276-1661)

LHB=Left High Beam / RHB=RIght High Beam / BR=Brake Light / BU=Back-up Light

==----OUTPUTS----==

LHB [cut wire going to left high beam and wire this to lamp]

RHB [this is the other end of the left high beam wire that is connected to the actual high beam switch and right high beam lamp]

BR [cut wire going to brake lamps and wire this to lamps]

BU [cut wire going to backup lamps and wire this to lamps]

==----INPUTS---==

+ [Fused (20A) Positive Input]

- [Negative Input]

BR [from brake lamp switch (other end of 'cut' brake lamp wire)]

BU [from backup lamp switch (other end of 'cut' backup lamp wire)]

Any wires that cross that are not the same color DO NOT join together!

If same color, they need to be soldeRED / tapped together.

PLEASE CONTACT ME HERE OR AT mailto:webmaster@sparkyssb.com IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS!! I would like to clearify any thing before you go to town making and installing the circut.  Please feel free to build off of it and please let me know what you did differently so I get more ideas for future circuts.

Thanks guys and hope this helps someone!

HEY SPARKY,

HEY WILL THIS WORK WITH IMPORTS THAT ARE GROUND SIDED SWITHED? OR IS THIS JUST FOR POSITIVE SIDED SYSTEMS EXAMPLE PONTIAC? WHAT TYPE OF ELECTRONIC TURN SIGNAL ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT AND WHICH WOULD BE PREFERED? ROUGHLY HOW MUCH IN PARTS ALL TOGETHER? THANKS SPARKY!