Wiring Mids and Tweeters to Amp

I am installing 2 dayton rs150 6" 40 watts rms and 2 mb quart ptk tweeters 50watts rms into the kick panels of my truck.I only have the h/p channels (2)of my amp to wire all this up.The daytons will use a bass blocker in line @600hz (crossed with dedicated mid bass)and the tweeters have an line filter . My amp is capable of 40watts rms@4ohms per channel (stereo) and 130wattsrms @4ohms (mono).MY question is how do I wire all this up so that 1 tweeter and 1 midrange are on the left channel and 1tweeter and 1 midrange are on the right channel?Also if someone has a better tweeter choice please provide input.-A vision without a plan is just a hallucination-

AMP -> Crossover -> Speaker.  Each set of woofer, mid and tweet connects to one amplifier channel, with the appropriate crossover between the amp and each speaker, using standard speaker wire.Support the12volt.com

do you have any tweeters you would recommend to blend with the rs daytons good?thanks for the info on the wiring-A vision without a plan is just a hallucination-

Check out the JL Audio TR050-CT tweeters.  They sound really nice and come with an appropriate crossover filter.Support the12volt.com

Should i bridge them or stereo.The amp puts out 40 watts rms per channel.So If I run the daytons50wattsrms and the jl's50watts rms in stereo will i be underpowering them or will the amp send 40 watts rms to each speaker on each channel?-A vision without a plan is just a hallucination-

DYohn wrote: AMP -> Crossover -> Speaker.  Each set of woofer, mid and tweet connects to one amplifier channel, with the appropriate crossover between the amp and each speaker, using standard speaker wire.

. So bridge the h/p and the l/p channels? for example the left set (mid,woof tweet)would just run on the l/p channel and the right set would run on the h/p channel with the filters off?-A vision without a plan is just a hallucination-

No bridging... Nobody said anything about bridging... You said you have two channels remaining... You run the left speakers, divided by their associated external passive crossover, off one channel of the amp, and the right speakers, divided by THEIR associated external passive crossover, off the other channel of the amp. Don't over-analyze this thing... Dude, this is drop-dead simple, and you are making it WAY more complicated than you need to! Run your RCAs from the deck to the amp. If you have a high-pass filter of a decent frequency, then run it in the ON position, but only if it can affect both channels of the amplifier, the model of which NONE of us have ANY GUESS of; it seems *my* crystal ball is again malfunctioning, and you have not mentioned what it is... Run the amp in stereo. Connect amplifier channels to required doors through passive crossovers. Do this... 1) Turn all filters off on the amplifier. 2) Turn amplifier gain ALL THE WAY DOWN. 3) Install amplifier properly, including signal cables to the necessary inputs, i.e. right deck output to right amp input, and left deck output to left amp input. 4) (And this is the MOST IMPORTANT STEP IN THE PROCESS FOR YOU!) Pretend the amplifier isn't even there... It's not an "amplifier" at this point in time. It's a heavy, expensive, terminal block for anchoring the wires connected to your crossovers. There are no knobs or switches anywhere on this heavy, expensive, terminal block, so don't look for any. If you see anything that looks like a knob or a switch, you've had too much to drink, and are hallucinating. What I am saying with this is FORGET EVERY ADJUSTMENT, DON'T TOUCH A THING! 5) Connect the passive crossovers to the outputs of that heavy, expensive, terminal block EXACTLY as if it were a head unit's outputs... If it is a "two channel" heavy, expensive, terminal block, with four terminals, (R+, R-, L+, L-) all four terminals will have a speaker wire anchored by it. Don't skip any at all. 5a) Can you bridge a deck's outputs? (That's all it is, just higher powered.) Not generally, no, so again, right wire to right door, and left wire to left door. This will take 90+% of your confusion away, if you simply pretend the amplifier ISN'T an amplifier, but a heavy, expensive, terminal block. 6) Connect the wires to the passive crossovers, installed in the doors or the kick-panels. 7) Connect the speakers to the required hi- or lo- pass outputs on the passive crossovers. 8) Once you are done with connecting everything up THAT way, that heavy, expensive, terminal block has now magically transformed to an amplifier, and NOW you can go in and set your new amplifier's crossovers and gains...It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

thanks haemphyst for clearing it up ,sorry for not informing you guys on the amp.its a kenwood kdc500x4 40wattsrmsx4 @4ohmns (stereo)130x4@4ohms mono.I was confused because dyohn stated to wire each set:mid,woof,tweeter,The l/p channels on the amp will power my mids so that is where i got confused I thought i needed to bridge all 3 speakers to be able to supply them enough power. Now I understand the wiring,but will 40watts rms per channel be underpowering the dayton rs150 (50wattsrms) and the jl audio tweeter (50watts rms),or will they both receive 40 watts rms?That is another reason why my mind is stuck on bridging .sorry for the confusion ,still learning every step of the way-A vision without a plan is just a hallucination-

Do You guys have any experience with this tweeter SEAS, H1396 I was thinking of using this with a 2500hz h/p butterworth filter . Does that sound right?-A vision without a plan is just a hallucination-

Don't worry about how much power you are providing. You'll have plenty. The crossover attenuates the power as necessary, and each SET will receive 40 watts. It'll be plenty. However... this being said, I cannot find a kdc500x4 amplifier anywhere... Is that the EXACT model number? If you are using all 4 channels for the doors, hold on one second, provide me with exactly the amplifier model number; you might be able to do more, and provide better flexibility with that amp.It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."