retaining factory xm , a trouble?

Specifics: 2009 Chevy Malibu with factory 6 disk in dash, 6 speaker and factory amp with XM, blue tooth and steering wheel controls. I'm wondering if I can upgrade the head unit and retain the factory XM radio without buying a new XM module such as this http://outlet.crutchfield.com/p_209XMD1000/XM-Direct-XMD1000.html?cc=07&tp=6953 is there a harness or something available now to use? I did a search and the only topic I found was 5yrs old. I read here that there is an XM unit under the rear deck but I did not see it when I pulled the liner down. Also, I just installed a basic system in my car, door speakers, 2 subs 2 amps all good equipment JL & Boston. I used the factory amps remote wire(pink)now when I open the door the chime comes on and then the subs pop. I'm fairly certain about the ground (seat belt post) constant 12v when monitored what concerns me is that remote wire. I'm wondering if that is tripped when anything in the electrical system comes on (door chime). Would an after market HU correct this pop? Thanks in advance

The only radio I now of that is designed to work with GM factory XM is a Rosen navigation radio, but I'm not sure if it will work in a Malibu. The pink wire in the factory radio is powered anytime the BCM is awake. As soon as you open a door, this wire goes to 12 volts and will stay that way until the BCM shuts down. The seat belt post is not a good ground source. Use a paint free area of the body that has thick metal and one that is not part of the outside metal skin (this prevents corrsion from degrading the ground over time).sparky

sparkie wrote: The only radio I now of that is designed to work with GM factory XM is a Rosen navigation radio, but I'm not sure if it will work in a Malibu. The pink wire in the factory radio is powered anytime the BCM is awake. As soon as you open a door, this wire goes to 12 volts and will stay that way until the BCM shuts down. The seat belt post is not a good ground source. Use a paint free area of the body that has thick metal and one that is not part of the outside metal skin (this prevents corrsion from degrading the ground over time).

Thanks for the advice sparkie. I'm going to upgrade the HU a run new remote but this will get my by until then. After I posted this I went trouble shooting, I tried several other grounds thinking that was my problem, I agree with you about seat belt bolt not being ideal, I checked SEVERAL locations for another ground, all of them would read 12v on my meter so I'd hook to it and nothing, amps wouldn't turn on? Check with meter, and have around 6v???? I ended up stripping the area around the seat belt post down to bare metal coating with die electric grease, works perfectly. As far as the pop, turns out it was a bad RCA out on one of the amps. I'd ran from the LLC into one amp then out to the other, it popped every time, split the signal at the LLC and ran an RCA to each amp, no more pop. Now to decide on a HU.