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inconsistency triggering defrost/htd seat


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dismay 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: September 29, 2009
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: December 09, 2009 at 6:25 PM / IP Logged  
Alarm Viper 5901, Veh 2001 Yukon.
I have the defrost and heated seat wired in at the switch/button. The defrost takes a negative pulse, and the heated seat takes a positive pulse (i've used a relay to reverse polarity)
Both work properly about 70% of the time, but some times it seems like they get double triggered, so the defrost goes on then off instantly, and the heated seat goes from on high to on low. I'm wondering if using a resistor inline would help to "smooth" out the pulse and avoid double triggers? Any ideas are appreciatied! Thanks!
t&t tech 
Platinum - Posts: 2,601
Platinum spacespace
Joined: October 05, 2008
Location: Trinidad and Tobago
Posted: December 09, 2009 at 7:08 PM / IP Logged  
How would that resistor "smooth out the pulse, " you should program it to status output, latched!
JW.ORG.
COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF.
PSALMS 37:5
dismay 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: September 29, 2009
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: December 09, 2009 at 8:01 PM / IP Logged  
when you turn on your defroster or heated seats, do you hold your finger on the button for as long as you want it on? didn't think so.
icarus_icarus 
Copper - Posts: 229
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: December 11, 2009 at 1:26 AM / IP Logged  

My guess would be that the pulse isn't long enough...

I don't think it's double triggering it, but that it's actuating it too fast and not 'catching' enough to latch the defroster always, if you get my idea? I had a sort of similar problem with my lights when I used a double pulse for them and it looked like one pulse as each one was to quick for the combination of the relay/incandescent lights...

·Ď˘ĺrµ§·
inconsistency triggering defrost/htd seat -- posted image.
t&t tech 
Platinum - Posts: 2,601
Platinum spacespace
Joined: October 05, 2008
Location: Trinidad and Tobago
Posted: December 11, 2009 at 3:38 PM / IP Logged  
Oh! I humbly apologise for my idiotic suggestion mr.dismay! I hope i didn't  offend you!
JW.ORG.
COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF.
PSALMS 37:5
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,666
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: December 11, 2009 at 7:23 PM / IP Logged  
Did you install a diode across the coil of the relays?
ckeeler 
Gold - Posts: 1,461
Gold spacespace
Joined: June 20, 2008
Location: New Mexico, United States
Posted: December 12, 2009 at 3:18 AM / IP Logged  

i am an idiot wrote:
Did you install a diode across the coil of the relays?

hmmm.....exactly. I don't even see where he said he even used any relay (factory or added in). did you just tie into circuits that already used an OE relay??

dismay 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: September 29, 2009
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: December 12, 2009 at 10:29 AM / IP Logged  
Well It seems like it's working closer to 90% of the time, the defrost was just doing it's normal time out before I made it out to the vehicle.
Some good suggestions here that I will look into when I get some time, I'll probly just live with it as is.
One person on my tahoe/yukon forum also said to check if the relay had a doide across the coil, or suggested contact bounce.
To answer some questions, each of these things has to be looked at as a different animal. Like I said above "The defrost takes a negative pulse, and the heated seat takes a positive pulse (i've used a relay to reverse polarity)"
Defrost: wired directly from the alarm to the appropriate pin/solder point of the switch. Negative pulse sent to switch 10 seconds after remote start, or manually via the remote.
Heated Seat: alarm aux 1 wired to a relay to reverse polarity, positive pulse sent to appropriate pin/solder point of the switch in the drivers door.
With both of these the heating element is not being controlled directly but by a switch with some kind of IC. So the goal is to better match what I'm sending to the switch contact, and and what the IC wants to see at that point. For example, if the button itself has some resistance built in, the IC would want to see that.
Looking back what I should have done is soldered a wire to either side of the button and used a relay to close the connection when pulsed from the alarm. Hindsight...

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