blown alpine mrd m605 amp

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wykdfantasy

Member - Posts: 38

Joined: July 27, 2006

Location: Florida, United States

Posted: January 04, 2010 at 6:50 PM / IP Logged

Also I forgot to note above, that the transistors numbered in BLUE 1, 2, and 3 do not respond to the test I ran above with the tester. They do not appear to switch at all. I am not sure if they work differently or not.

i am an idiot

Platinum - Posts: 13,671

This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: September 21, 2006

Location: Louisiana, United States

Posted: January 04, 2010 at 7:16 PM / IP Logged

The only thing you forgot to mention was the part about mounting all transistors back to the heat sink. It takes only a few seconds to cause more damage if they are not firmly mounted to the sink. You were dead on with all other questions.

wykdfantasy

Member - Posts: 38

Joined: July 27, 2006

Location: Florida, United States

Posted: January 04, 2010 at 7:19 PM / IP Logged

roger that, will do. Ok going to remove the previously mentioned transistor, and remount it back in the case and attach the heat sink. Power up and report what happens. What should happen with a missing transistor?

wykdfantasy

Member - Posts: 38

Joined: July 27, 2006

Location: Florida, United States

Posted: January 04, 2010 at 7:26 PM / IP Logged

One more question, if there are normally two 30 amp fuses, what is the purpose of removing both of them and only putting 1 10 amp fuse in its place?

I have a 15amp fuse handy, I would have to dig to find a 10 amp fuse, would that be ok to use for the test?

i am an idiot

Platinum - Posts: 13,671

Joined: September 21, 2006

Location: Louisiana, United States

Posted: January 04, 2010 at 7:52 PM / IP Logged

With 60 amps worth of fuses, if there is a problem with the audio section of the amp, it is very easy to destroy the power supply before the fuses blow. A 10 amp fuse will blow before it can cause any damage to the supply. The 15 should be fine. A 10 would be even safer, but the 15 should work.

Did the leg break at the case of the transistor, or at the circuit board?

wykdfantasy

Member - Posts: 38

Joined: July 27, 2006

Location: Florida, United States

Posted: January 04, 2010 at 7:57 PM / IP Logged

the leg broke right in the middle, so it was easy to repair, right where the bend is.

wykdfantasy

Member - Posts: 38

Joined: July 27, 2006

Location: Florida, United States

Posted: January 04, 2010 at 8:02 PM / IP Logged

OK the posts did not remove like I would have liked them too, so since they would not budge, I just unsolder-ed the leg that i repaired and clipped the other two at the bend just like that one, so I could repair them all if needed. I am going to reassemble now and test with a 15amp fuse.

i am an idiot

Platinum - Posts: 13,671

Joined: September 21, 2006

Location: Louisiana, United States

Posted: January 04, 2010 at 8:33 PM / IP Logged

Did you add extra solder to all 3 joints of the transistor before attempting to remove it?

wykdfantasy

Member - Posts: 38

Joined: July 27, 2006

Location: Florida, United States

Posted: January 04, 2010 at 10:23 PM / IP Logged

yes sir I sure did, and it still didn't come out so I cut the other two posts. I will test it in the morning as its now 11:23pm.

wykdfantasy

Member - Posts: 38

Joined: July 27, 2006

Location: Florida, United States

Posted: January 05, 2010 at 4:26 PM / IP Logged

OK, I am sad to report, still a no go, same blank blinking display. Please let me know what I should check next.

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