Adding Remote Start to RS3200, 2002 Toyota 4Runner, 1997 F-150

I have a 2002 Toyota 4runner SR5 with factory RS3200 plus security system. This vehicle does not have a transponder in the ignition key. I need to add a long range remote start. It needs to be started from a hospital building from a range of approx. 400 yards. I have determined that a two way system for start conformation would be best and that the longer range 800-900Mhz units will better perform in this environment. Does anyone know of a add-on that would be effective and designed to work in conjunction with the factory system? The stock security features are adequate for my purposes. If I have to replace the whole system I would like to be able to have compatibility with a remote lock/alarm system that I will be installing in a 1997 F-150 XLT extended cab as well. I have not purchased either system. The Ford does not need to have long range or two way capabilities. The Ford does not need remote start but I would consider it if economical. This truck is a low security priority and a basic alarm will be adequate. The Ford has power locks/windows but no remote lock function from the factory as verified via ignition key on-off procedure resulting in no programing mode entered. This F-150 does not have a transponder in the ignition key. I am looking for recommendations for a reliable add-on long range two way remote start for the Toyota. If that is not possible then a brand to replace the existing system in the Toyota and install in the Ford that could allow the remotes to be used for each vehicle to ease vehicle swapping and general simplicity of ownership of the respective systems. Cost would be considered only after reliability and necessary conditions have been met. I have extensive vehicle mechanic experience and some electronic experience and have confidence in installing both systems with wiring diagrams and schematics available to me but I would consider having them installed if necessary. I have researched this topic and am overwhelmed with the available options, brands, and subjective opinions found. I have read about AudioVox building the rs3200 plus found on this Toyota but the trail ended there. I have read that CodeAlarm builds the factory units on the 1997-2003 Ford F-150s. I have read positive reviews on Compustar units. Does anyone have experience with my needs? Advice? Any and all is most welcome and thank you for reading this long post. MoJoWales

TOYOTA: First, note the red SECURITY light on the dashboard. And also, open your driver's window all the way. With the engine off and key removed, it should be flashing slowly. When you lock the doors with the remote, it should come on steady for 30 seconds (it's arming), and then begin to flash again (it's armed now). OK, now that you know how it works, try the following: 1. Close hood, hatch, all doors, lock door with key from the outside. (Don't use the remote.) See if the red LED comes on steady for those 30 seconds and then starts flashing. If it does, reach in through the open window and open the door....does the alarm sound? 2. If yes, now turn the key in the door to the Unlock position....are you able to disarm the factory Toyota alarm using your key? (Again, use the key, not the remote. If the answer to both above questions are "yes," you could put a regular remote start/keyless unit, and it will be able to arm and disarm the factory Toyota system. If the answer to both above questions is "no," then you won't be able to arm/disarm the Toyota system using another remote. Your best bet would be to either unplug it or completely remove it (your choice), and install an alarm/starter combo unit. FORD: Sure it doesn't have a transponder? I thought they all did, but I'm probably mistaken. With the engine off, look for a small red light in the dashboard that flashes "THEFT." PRODUCT: I understand what you're trying to do....a nice long-range system for the Toyota, a basic simple system for the Ford, and control them all from one remote. For the most part, long-range remote-start remotes are not compatible with short-range systems, and vice versa. Also, most basic non-remote start alarms don't even have an on-glass antenna like a remote starter---they just have a small piece of wire that serves as the antenna, and often use remotes that aren't even compatible with either short-range or long-range remote starters. So, I think your choices are going to come down to one three: 1. Install long-range remote start systems in both vehicles. 2. Install a long-range system in the Toyota, a more basic system in the Ford, and live with them being on separate remotes. 3. Buy the same fancy long-range system for both vehicles, but do a more basic install on the Ford, without connecting the remote starter features. You'd still be spending the same on product as in #1, but you'll at least save time.

Thank you for the excellent information Chris. I followed your instructions and the results were as follows: While sitting in the 2002 Toyota 4runner SR5 with all windows up, the hood and all doors closed, and the keys out of the ignition I engaged the remote locks via the factory FOB and observed the door lock pin/knobs move to the locked position and the red SECURITY light to light and remain solid for 30 seconds. I unlocked the vehicle and rolled down the drivers front window and closed the door. The key was out of the ignition. I used the factory remote FOB to lock the vehicle and observed the red SECURITY light to light and remain solid for 30 seconds and then begin to blink slowly in approximately 2 second intervals. I reached in the vehicle and pulled the door lock pin/knob to the unlock position and the alarm sounded via the horn. I used the ignition key to unlock the vehicle from outside via the drivers door key cylinder and the alarm disengaged. The red SECURITY light went out. I double checked the 1997 Ford F-150 XLT extended cab and did not find any security light on the dash or instrument panel. I have performed the remote programing procedure via the ignition key off-to-run cycling and the vehicle does not enter the program mode. I have looked on the drivers side interior firewall location where the factory remote lock module would have been located and it is not there. The ignition key is a slim key with black plastic covering on the flat end. It is approximately 1/3 the width of my 2003 Ford F-150 XLT supercrew ignition key which does have the factory transponder, alarm, and remote lock. The 2002 Toyota 4runner SR5 has the factory alarm system and remote lock installed and I have found no evidence of any modifications to the system or vehicle. The ignition key and FOB appear to be original although we did purchase this vehicle used from the original owner. The 1997 Ford F-150 XLT extended cab ignition key appears to be original and I have found no evidence of any modifications to the vehicle of any kind although this vehicle has had three previous owners. With this information I am seeking recommendations for a long range two way remote start for the 2002 Toyota SR5 4runner. If I have to purchase an entire remote start security system to obtain the range and start confirmation I will do so. I would like advice on whether of not a system to plug into the existing wiring harness is available for this vehicle. If not then recommendations for a quality unit known to be reliable as this is my Fiance's daily vehicle and I want to lessen any chance of her being stranded. I would like to maintain at least the level of security of the factory system. If I install a new system should the factory system be physically removed or unplugged? Is it recommended to allow a new system to work in conjunction with the factory system? Depending on the cost of the system for the 2002 Toyota SR5 4runner I may purchase an identical unit to install on the 1997 Ford F-150 XLT extended cab to enable multi-vehicle response from the remotes. Assuming a price of over $150 for the 4runner system I will most likely purchase a different system for the F-150 based on cost and durability that sacrifices range, two way capabilities, and possibly remote start. I require only remote locking and basic security for the 1997 Ford F-150 and would like remain economical in regards to this truck if possible. I am assuming that these vehicles will accept older systems due to the absence of transponders. Does any older system have the range that the 2002 4runner must have? I would like this system to confirm that the 4runner has started. Does anyone have a recommendation for the 1997 F-150? I am located in Missouri near Jefferson City FYI. Other advice or recommendations? Thank you again for reading this long post. MoJoWales

Long posts are very good when they contain accurate information, nothing to apologize for. TOYOTA: Well, that's good news then. There were some older Toyota VIP alarms that could ONLY be armed/disarmed by the factory remote, and there was no easy way to integrate an aftermarket remote start. But forget about that. Since you can disarm it by turning the key in the door, that proves that the factory alarm can be armed/disarmed by just triggering the wires that are attached to the key cylinder. Well, from your post, it sounds like you tested that you can disarm the factory alarm with the key in the door....but you didn't mention if you can arm it. If you can disarm, I'm sure you can arm. If you like to be thorough, though, go back to the car, turn the alarm off.... now, close all doors, lock the driver's door from the outside using the key....are you able to arm the alarm this way? I'm sure you will. By the way, I'm almost positive that only the Limited came with a factory-installed alarm. I think when you get to taking apart your SR5, you'll probably find evidence that your alarm was dealer-installed. Anyway, then, you can do the following: --Buy whatever kind of remote starter/keyless entry you want. --Install the remote starter as usual, connecting your ignition/accessory/starter wires, brake, tachometer, parking lights, and so forth. (It's also possible, with a relay and a little extra labor, to have the aftermarket remote roll down the rear window like the factory one.) --The lock and unlock outputs of the remote starter will be connected to the wires that come from the driver's door key cylinder. You can put the factory Toyota remote away, and the aftermarket remote will arm and disarm the factory system just fine. (When I say "key cylinder wires," keep in mind you don't have to run wires into the door or anything. The wires come into the car's interior through that rubber boot, and are easy to find/test/connect in the driver's kick panel.) Also, you may have noticed that locking and unlocking the doors with your key doesn't make that high-pitched Toyota "beep" and doesn't flash the hazard lights, like when you lock/unlock with the OEM remote. Well, your typical aftermarket remote start flashes the parking lights instead of the hazards, and many (but not all) have a horn-honk output. So it will be a little bit different, but you'll still have lock/unlock confirmation, and you'll still be arming/disarming the factory alarm. It is possible, with extra work, to have the remote starter trigger the hazards with lock and unlock if you're really fussy about such things. I even once managed to find that little Toyota beeper under the hood and connect the remote starter's horn-honk output to it...but it was quite difficult to find. You also asked if there's a harness that plugs into the Toyota to make installation easier----yes, and no. The Bulldog brand sells T-harnesses for many cars (not sure about yours), that plug in so you don't have to splice as many wires. However, they're not cheap, they're made to plug into Bulldog remote starters, and Bulldog starters are the most basic there is---very limited range, cheap-looking remotes. You could consider buying a Bulldog T-harness, cutting off the Bulldog end, and connecting that to your other-brand remote starter.....for me it's too much cost and labor to save a handful of connections, but if you want to make a minumum of splices to the car, I can understand that. I think their site is www.bulldogsecurity.com. P.S. Like I said, I think you'll find that the Toyota VIP alarm will already be dealer installed, with their own version of a T harness. You could choose to make all your wiring splices on the dealer-installed T harness-----then, if you ever encounter a problem, drop the dash, unplug the T harness, plug the factory harness in directly......and you've instantly eliminated both your remote starter and your Toyota alarm. F150: OK then, if you also have an Expedition, you surely know what a Ford chip key looks like, so you definitely don't have one. Since you have no keyless entry, you also have what they call "5-wire" or "reversing polarity" doorlocks. If you click on the word "Relays" at the top of this forum, you can see how you can connect the doorlocks using two relays P.S. I never thought to look for the factory keyless entry module before, but this is what I do: You'll notice that with your Toyota (or almost any modern car), when you press the Lock or Unlock button on the door panel, you can also hear factory relays clicking somewhere inside the car (often in the fuse box). Also, if you press and HOLD the Lock button, the car is still smart enough that it will release power to the doorlock actuators after maybe 1 second----you can see it if you keep a close eye on the lock plungers at the top of the door. Now, if you go back to your F150, you'll probably notice that you won't hear any relays clicking inside. Also, holding the Lock button will indefinitely hold power to the doorlock actuators-----I suppose if you kept your finger there all day you'll probably blow a fuse or circuit breaker. Anyway, that's what I do on older Ford trucks to see if I'll need relays to do the locks or not. PRODUCT: Everyone's going to have their own preference, generally being accustomed to what they use and sell. I use Audiovox so that's what I know. Their product's good, reliable and priced right, even though their manuals are poorly written. I'll use the product I'm familiar with at least as an example. Whatever brand you choose, you're going to run into pretty much the same choices, though: Prestige XR6900: Long range "up to 1 mile" which is a bunch of BS, but it works from a block or block and a half away. Has remote start, keyless entry, auxilary outputs (for your rear window rolldown), horn honk. Comes with one 2-way and one 1-way remote. Prestige XR9000: Same as above but adds alarm system with starter kill and shock sensor. -----The systems below are 1000-feet. The remotes are NOT compatible with the XR systems above--- Prestige APS57: Remote start, keyless entry. Prestige APS687: Adds horn honk, auxilary outputs. Prestige APS787: Adds alarm with starter kill and shock sensor. -----The system below has a little piece of wire as an antenna, 300' of claimed range, and the remotes are NOT compatible with any of the systems above----- Prestige APS25CH: Alarm only, no remote start. Keyless entry, siren, starter kill, shock sensor. CONCLUSION: Supposing you came to me to have me install my brand in both of these cars, here's what your options would be: --The Toyota NEEDS a long-range system no matter what, correct? OK then, XR6900. --On the Ford, you don't need long range or anything fancy. You do need an alarm. You might want remote start if the price is right. You'd like to be able to control both cars from one remote. Well, depending on your budget, here would be your choices: 1. XR9000 remote start/alarm combo. Expensive but you'll like it. The 2-way remote even acts as a pager when the alarm is triggered. 2. XR9000 with only the security features hooked up---no remote start. I'll charge you a (very) little bit less because it's less labor. And I'll probably run the remote starter wires where they're supposed to go, and zip-tie them in place, because maybe you'll come back later to add remote start. 3. APS25CH. It'll be a lot cheaper, but you'll be carrying two remotes on your keychain.

Oh, one more thing. Not sure exactly how far away you park from the Toyota, but you can get unlimited range if you want. Look into the following: 1. Audiovox CL100. Dial a telefphone number, put in a password, car starts. Basic and simple. 2. Viper Smart Start. Need iPhone. Starts and locks/unlocks from wherever you have cell signal. 3. Autopage C3. Works with any cell phone. Starts, locks/unlocks, and also tracks car's location.

I will be researching my options and replying later but I wanted to drop a quick and sincere thanks to Chris. Excellent information and invaluable knowledge. Thank You and Happy New Years Day. MoJoWales

I have verified that the 2002 Toyota 4runner SR5 alarm can be activated from the driver door lock cylinder. After rolling the driver front window down and closing the door with the ignition key removed and all doors, hood, and rear gate closed I inserted the ignition key into the driver door lock cylinder and locked the vehicle. I observed the red SECURITY light to light solid for approximately 30 seconds then begin to slowly blink. I reached through the driver side window and unlocked the door which triggered the alarm and caused the horn and hazards to signal. I disarmed the alarm via the FOB. I inspected the 1997 Ford F-150 XLT extended cab as per the instructions. The ignition key was removed and the drivers door was open while I held the door unlock button down. I observed the lock pin/knobs to slightly tremble for the duration of pushing the activator down. I observed this on both doors and repeated with the door lock button with the same result. I tested for approximately 5 seconds continuously pressing the respective activators. In regards to whether the 2002 Toyota 4runner SR5 RS3200 plus security was factory or dealer installed I have no basis for assuming either at this point. The original build sticker lists the alarm upgrade on the right hand side under OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT as: V5. V.I.P.-RS3200 PLUS ALARM UPGRD            309.00 I defer to Chris's experience that it was installed at the dealership. I have noticed that this 4runner has the more basic red SECURITY light indicator and does not include the optional glass breakage microphone that is listed as optional in the original RS3200 PLUS owner's manual. I have a few questions that will help me make a decision on which aftermarket system to purchase for each vehicle. In regards to the 2002 4runner I would like to know pros and cons for leaving the factory system installed and functioning in conjunction with an aftermarket system. The current level of security is adequate for my purposes and adding features beyond the long range two way remote start with conformation is not necessary. Is having an aftermarket system working in redundancy an invitation for problems? If I do leave the factory system functioning will I increase the chances of problems by tapping into the wiring on the existing factory system side with the aftermarket system. I have determined that the TOY1 T-harness would be the correct model harness to use with this vehicle if I choose to remove the RS3200 Plus unit. I should state that I am very inclined to leave the vehicle wiring as factory original as possible. Being able to remove all security system wiring as non-invasively as possible appeals to me and my experience with vehicle electronics should problem diagnosis or system removal be required at a later date. Whatever route I end up going I will make all connections as secure as possible with soldering and shrink rap. Quick-tap style connection will not be used unless absolutely required with no other possible option. I will add wiring loom and zip-ties as needed. I work with the assumption that if someone wants something badly enough they are going to get it no matter the level or complexity of security and that clean, unmolested wiring will benefit me multiples of the time required for the install. I have the luxury of time with this project and I will do it as right as possible the first time. Regarding the continued use of the factory chirp confirmation I would think not considering the description of labor involved unless accessing the device wiring can be done from the dash while installing the new system and would result in a simpler install in that it would eliminate the need to duplicate some aspect of the combined systems. Having an aftermarket siren or horn chirp confirmation will be fine. If the RS3200 Plus unit is used in conjunction with a aftermarket system AND the aftermarket system is wired into the RS3200 Plus harness I assume that the factory siren/horn and hazard light alerts would be triggered by the aftermarket system. Is this correct? Would I be using only the power and existing input ie. door sensors and lock controls with new output wiring and devices? Would I install the aftermarket siren? I can see benefits to having a better siren but keeping it simple is also a selling point. I would like to know what the experience suggests here. I have concerns with duplicating output between two systems, basically having two triggers for the same event. I have decided that the different requirements for the two vehicles and cost factor have eliminated being able to use one FOB to control both vehicles. Being able to use standard non-transponder ignition keys makes this less of a cumbersome hassle. This being the case I am looking towards a Prestige XR6900 class system for the 2002 4runner and a Prestige APS687 class system for the 1997 F-150. My reasons for the 4runner are that I don't want to disturb the ignition wiring any more than necessary while achieving the range and start conformation that I require. Our location and vehicle age tend to alleviate fear of theft to the point where additional security features benefit is outweighed by simplicity and perceived durability. My reasons for the 1997 F-150 are that had I not gone out of my middle-aged mind with a stereo system I would be installing only a remote lock device on this daily driver. The stereo in question is currently in boxes on my floor and will be as undetectable as possible but does provide incentive for theft where little existed before. Having a horn or chirp confirming lock/unlock appeals to me. Vehicle immobilization to prevent theft is a moot point as once the stereo has been accessed the vehicle is not likely to be the target of a thief knowledgeable enough to get past the alarm. Punks breaking windows or setting off alarm sirens is much more likely in my location. The addition of remote start with a Prestige APS687 class system will be a cost determined luxury that I am leaning towards. Having determined the type of factory door lock polarity earlier and having to install relays as a result of (-) lock triggers is not an issue. I have noticed that some aftermarket systems have an option for this with both polarities available from the system brain but I have not looked at the additional cost to include this. I am currently researching the cell phone triggered remote start systems and am intrigued by them but I must confer with the driver of the 4runner before deciding. I am extremely thankful for your excellent advice Chris and I look forward to hearing more. MoJoWales

Hey Mojo, no problem. I think I caught a couple more questions there. TOYOTA: If the factory alarm is on the window sticker, then I'm going to change my mind and say it was probably factory installed. I've worked on a lot of new Toyotas over the years (doing installs for dealerships), so I've seen a lot of window stickers. I've seen the occasional Toyota with the factory-installed VIP systems, they're just rather rare. Anyway, no, I see no problem with retaining the factory system, and adding an aftermarket alarm/starter combo. Your factory system already senses the door switches, flashes the lights, and honks the horn. An aftermarket system generally adds a shock sensor, a siren, and the ability to add more (tilt, glass break, etc) sensors if desired. Also, if it's a 2-way system, you'll have the 2-way pager remote to carry with you. Other, VERY minor nitpick: While the remote starter is running, the factory Toyota system will be disarmed. Is anyone really going to break into your car in those few minutes while it's remote started in the morning? I don't think so, but maybe. The aftermarket system would stay armed even while remote started. Also, to recap, if you add a plain remote start/keyless (with no alarm, like an XR6900) to the 4Runner: You may have noticed that when you lock/unlock with the key, the car makes no response other than locking and arming......no chirps, no hazard flash, nothing. Whatever aftermarket system you install, will just tie into the same wires you're triggering when you turn the key....the Toyota system will arm and protect the car, but just like when locking with the key, no chirps/lights. However, if the car is broken into, the Toyota system will of course honk and flash.....it'll do whatever it does when you reached in through the window and opened the door. But, pretty much any remote starter you buy, will flash the parking (not hazard) lights upon lock/unlock. Many (but not all) systems have a horn honk output that can beep the Toyota's regular horn. So I think that's what you want, probably: Long-range remote start, keyless entry, (maybe) rear window rolldown, parking light flash, horn honk. Something like an XR6900 would give you all that. On the other hand, the XR9000 doesn't cost much more, and doesn't require much more labor to install. You might think the shock sensor, siren, and 2-way paging are worth it. Oh, and about the siren: Many (but not all) alarm/starter combos have a honk output as well. I have a couple of cars where I didn't feel like running a wire under the hood for the siren, so I use the horn instead. Again, your choice. (By the way, a few of the newer Audiovox systems are shipping without sirens these days, although they still have the output and you can buy one separately. Be sure to ask before buying if it includes a siren or not.) FORD: OK, so something like an XR9000 is out of the budget range, and the two cars/single remote thing isn't a big deal....understood. You mentioned the APS687, but I think it's either a typo or I loaded too much information on you at once. APS687: Remote start, keyless, and lots of cool features, but no alarm. APS787: Pretty much the same as 687, but adds alarm, with door sensing, hood sensing (if you install the hood pinswitch), starter kill, shock sensor, and siren output (may or may not include siren). About doorlocks on the Ford: OK, if you look around, some cars have negative trigger doorlocks (your 4Runner), some have positive trigger doorlocks (older GM and Chrysler), and some have "reversing polarity" or "5-wire" locks. Audiovox, for example, has outputs for both negative and positive doorlocks. The positive outputs are a great timesaver on, say, a 2001 Suburban, but are of no help for your Ford at all. A few alarms do have complete, onboard relays for 5-wire locks, but they are rare. You can do your 5-wire locks with just two relays and scrap wire, or to make for a neater install, look for a DEI 451M, which is really just two small relays pre-wired in a nice case. For your Ford, I would buy whatever alarm you really want, and plan on connecting external relays for the locks. OVERALL ADVICE: You said you're not in a hurry. You're already almost sure what you want for the Toyota (XR6900 or maybe XR9000), but not sure what you want for the Ford. My advice: Buy what you want for the Toyota, install it, get it working correctly. It'll take you a little while but you'll learn a lot. After that experience, you can decide if you want to put a simple alarm in the Ford, or if you're ready for the extra labor of an alarm/starter combo.

I just wanted to say thanks again Chris. I got my wires crossed a bit with the models for the 1997 F-150 truck. Your information has been exceptional. I definitely want an alarm for the F-150. I am researching them now. I see that the prices differ wildly on the internet. In regards to the 2002 Toyota 4runner I am finding the XR6900 from lows of about $140 and the XR9000 around $155. This would make the XR9000 an obvious choice. I am not concerned with the 2002 Toyota 4runner alarm being de-activated while running after a remote start. It is a good thing that I have time to research before installing as the holiday time of plenty has given way to "no rest for the weary". Both vehicles are operational as-is and the remote start is a luxury in regards to the 2002 4runner. The 1997 F-150 alarm is not necessary until the stereo has been installed. This being said I would like to have the Toyota 4runner completed within the next two weeks. Thank you for the good advice on learning from this install and then tackling the F-150. I will reply when I have done more research on pricing or other questions arise. I am in a much better position to make a decision now.       Thanks again, MoJoWales