gm data wire bypasses

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jinstaller1

Member - Posts: 24

Joined: April 25, 2009

Location: Missouri, United States

Posted: January 13, 2010 at 9:23 AM / IP Logged

Okay so a couple of times rescently ive had issues with data wires on the obd2(GM) not being strong enough or no signal at all, so my question is generically for GM is there another spot i can catch a data wire that will work with a data bypass. Here is an example, 04 Buick Park Ave, Code Alarm ca5050 (RS/Keyless), Fortin (AKA crimestopper) INTSL data bypass. Install was easy after getting the bottom of the dash out, lol, then for programing of the bypass its 1.push program button 2.plug in harnesses LED should turn on to signal programing mode 3.put key into ign 4.turn to on position, LED should flash rapidly 5.release program button 6.start vehicle, LED should turn off 7.take out key, and progaming is done..... But everything is cool from 1 to 3 but on 4 the LED wont flash it just stays on as if it doesnt know the key is on, so i checked wiring and everything was correct tried another bypass just in case i had a bad one same thing no flashing light... So I know its not the best way to check for data on the wire but i put my DMM on it, it never read above .2 volts not sure if he was correct but my mechanic friend told me it should read above 1 volt at least. Any help would be awesome thanks in advance........

Jayce

kgerry

Platinum - Posts: 3,455

This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: February 07, 2004

Location: Saskatchewan, Canada

Posted: January 13, 2010 at 1:51 PM / IP Logged

MAYBE IT'S THE MODULES YOU ARE USING... I GO TO THE obd FOR DATA ALL THE TIME WITH xPRESSKIT AND iDATA MODULES AND HAVE NEVER HAD ANY ISSUES.... WORKS FINE EVERY TIME.... oops sorry about the caps...

Kevin Gerry

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since 1979

el ranchero

Copper - Posts: 92

Joined: October 04, 2008

Location: Illinois, United States

Posted: January 13, 2010 at 4:42 PM / IP Logged

are you soldering the wire or using t taps?

rocker

tedmond

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Joined: January 06, 2007

Location: Ontario, Canada

Posted: January 13, 2010 at 4:50 PM / IP Logged

it could be the modules. do you solder the wires?

the INT-SL is probably the easiest bypass to program. i think you got the programming procedure wrong. all fortin bypasses and easy to program its

hold programming button, plug in connector 1 and 2, once LED stays on, release button, then stick key into ignition/turn on, press lock with factory fob, start the car, LED flashes, remove key. remote start to confirm programming.

as for the wires, i end up going to the OBD plug as well. Ground, 12v and ignition are also available there as well.

Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

jinstaller1

Member - Posts: 24

Joined: April 25, 2009

Location: Missouri, United States

Posted: January 13, 2010 at 9:41 PM / IP Logged

I dont believe in ttaps so i solder.... Also the programing tedmond that you stated is for the INT-SL+ not the INT-SL. They are very similar in programing though. Thanks for the help but I think I got the solution to it, after digging a little deeper I found that the firmware was old on the units so I believe that should fix my issue........ Thanks for the help guys.......

Jayce

lspker

Silver - Posts: 503

Joined: November 23, 2003

Location: Canada

Posted: January 13, 2010 at 10:33 PM / IP Logged

May be the bcm is asleep when your programming. Open and close the door to wake up.

tommy...

Gold - Posts: 1,901

Joined: December 10, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: January 14, 2010 at 9:44 AM / IP Logged

[QUOTE=jinstaller1]I dont believe in ttaps so i solder.... .......[/QUOTE/]

One of the first companies i worked for...It was MANDATORY to use t-taps...I know there limitations...etc...and no i dont use them...(*much*)... But we would pre-load every vehicle on the lot with an alarm and an actuator (if no power locks)...300-600 vehicles a month...10-20 per day...The only problems i saw with them was using the wrong size...red,blue,yellow...Not getting the wire in the groove...etc...When i first started i would poke and wrap...But after getting yelled at ...oh...30 times or so...I gave in...When the customer bought the car and didnt want the alarm...we would de-install the unit...Most of the time just un-plugging the brain...But also on some...removing the harnesses...hence the getting yelled at for poke and wrap...And that was dealership work...! sigh... The installs were very clean though...tuck brain...route wires...strip , crimp and plug-in...Now-a-days on those hard to reach wires...I long for my long needle nose and a t-tap and male spade...sighs again...!

M.E.C.P & First-Class

Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

jinstaller1

Member - Posts: 24

Joined: April 25, 2009

Location: Missouri, United States

Posted: January 16, 2010 at 8:23 PM / IP Logged

Yeah I agree I use to use them myself, but then after time and time again the connection wouldnt be right on the ttap to the wire or the male spade when crimped would kick to the side and would slide to the side of the ttap.... Dont get me wrong in the case of that many installs in a day then yeah i understand, or that one wire that is way up in the dash and can only get a few inchs of space then I understand...... I just dont want to risk that one rs or keyless or whatever that i drove 150 miles away to do 10 rs's on f150's to call and say hey somethin aint workin right and come to find out its a ttap that I didnt clamp down all the way or some BS like that....LOL just my 2cents just like everyone else we all have our ways ;)

Jayce

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gm data wire bypasses

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