headlights dimming no voltage drop

My first thought when he mentioned the "aux power supply" was the terminal/set screw usually by a fuse box or firewall...Dunno...M.E.C.P & First-Class

Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

tommy... wrote: My first thought when he mentioned the "aux power supply" was the terminal/set screw usually by a fuse box or firewall...Dunno...

Yep thats it. On my car all Mustang at least from 96-04 has all but 2 power wires going into this instead of straight to the battery. Only 2 wires actually go to the positive on the battery. I would much rather have my alternator power wire and power wire for amp going straight to the battery. But is not an option with factory mustang battery terminal connectors. Aftermarket for ground and power is my only option. I'll have to do this for the battery ground to chassis too.

Its gonna suck because factory wiring leaves me so slack at all, hopefully I won't have to cut the ends of the wires off of the old terminal connectors. I need a battery terminal connector that can take 4 total wires and same for the ground.

Josh

2003 Modded Mustang GT

Yep, well that's Tommy 4 ya! And what did I say about OTHERS having the application detail that I lack! And Mustang - your preference is so correct.... The best wiring for voltage sensitive applications - ie, hi-current - is direct (obviously(?)). The battery or alternator direct to loads and the alternator direct to the battery. (All via fuses except arguably the latter though non-resistive protection is preferable in all cases.) There is a reason many vehicles power their headlights and maybe fans etc from the alternator whereas audio and other lights and loads are powered from the battery.   (Hence negating the use of traditional ammeters, but they were a useless waste anyhow!) And now I understand your groaning at the big 3 upgrade! (As I have written, I shouldn't 2nd-guess nor question at this site - even its OPs are clever!) And also those upgrade kits have more relevance know. (Last week I borrowed a mate's hardcopy(!!) catalog from a stateside supplier way over the Summit, er, the horizon. Love the offerings and prices. Hate the imperial though.) It sounds like the Mustang's "aux box" setup is perfect for normal usage and additions - it simplifies the technicalities, the DIY etc. I have oft considered the same, but keep coming back to the dedicated solution - the Big3 and two primary power connection points (batt+ or alt+). I'll look at our Aussie suppliers to see if they offer superconductors, though I suspect that is still for military use only (to power the Aussie rail-guns, and for power problems when we have bad Transformers). [Did you see that blatant foreign film ripoff? They used one of our documentaries and turned it into a Romance! They swapped the Gemini for some yellow beast, and Uluru (ie - Ayers Rock aka "The Big Red Rock") for Egyptian pyramids. Ha!] Superconductors would make the "aux box" ideal! And imagine - no more caps nor boot batteries! Yeah - it's about time we privatised our military for the greater good! Now if the Big3 etc could be in addition to the aux box...(??) Or the aux box conductors quadrupled....

Senor Old Spark, I love your posts! I think until now, I always associated +1000w+4ga+big3 as a installation standard. That rms power, and a decently put together amp can equal a ferocious maximum draw(A) though. In my 01 prelude the lights would dim even after the big 3. A yellow top optima solved that issue for me. For a while there, I was convinced the battery saved the day. I guess electrically its irrelevant. Earlier you spoke of the back in the day provisions for car audio. The bass was plenty loud and it didnt take the whole 9 yards to obtain it. What the heck did the next generation do to MY hobby!     This is what I do for FUN!

ianarian wrote: ... I was convinced the battery saved the day. I guess electrically its irrelevant...

Alas is someone else taking the Micky out of me? lol In your case it sounds like the battery did save the day. But without the Big3, I suggest it would not have. Afterall, an AGM merely halves the battery ESR (resistance) which is usually low compared to standard wiring anyhow (ie, little effect). And if audio causes it, a (small) battery near the amp (or the lights) might solve it - ie, a superior but cheaper stiffening cap. The point is, your Optima was AFTER the Big3. It would be interesting to see how effective your Optima is with the old Little3 returned. But for some, the Big3 alone solves the problems. And as many have written, it is the foundation for better electrics. I'd hate seeing people view the Big3 the same way some view the Y2k bug - namely, that it was a fraud.   Why? .... Because NOTHING happened LOL! (Just for them, I wish no Y2k work was done!).