headlights dimming no voltage drop

Hey all. Some of you might remember a previous post I made a few weeks ago about a voltage drop I was having with the stereo cranked up and headlights and all accessories on. Voltage droping to 11.5 all the way down in the 10's. Sometimes staying in the low 13 range and absolutely never going above 13.8 at high rpms.

I bought a HO Alternator 160Amp to replace the factory 110A alternator. And a PA Performance 4 gauge premium alternator wire. After the install I started the car and the voltage went up to 14.2 . This car hasn't seen anything over 13.8 at most in 1 year or 2. No voltage drops. Car at idle, headlights, heater all on and stereo cranked voltage might drop to 13.5. So problem fixed. Stays in the high 13's and alot in the low 14's.

Problem is, I still have headlight dimming to the bass.

Mods double din Pioneer headunit, 500 watt RMS kenwood amp wired in 2ohms to two 12's amp. 8 guage tsunami amp kit. The kenwood amp calls for a 8 gauge power and ground. This is in a Mustang GT 03 Model and amp is mounted on rear seat. So this is probaly one of the shortest battery to amp routes around. Headlights dim to bass. I know I haven't upgraded the Big 3. Just the Big 1. Going to do the alternator ground wire tomorrow with 4 guage.

Is my option a capacitor now since I've installed the HO Alternator?

Thanks

Josh

I want to add this voltage readings are with a radar detector in the power socket. Its seems to be as right on as you can expect. I did have a meter but its borken. And I've spent over 2 grand in the last 2 weeks on this car with brakes lal the way around, rotors resurfacing, new bfg kdw2 tires, alternator, alt. wire, fuel filter, 2 pulleys, serpintine belt, etc. So I'm pressed for cash. But just ready for everything to be right on with this car.

It seems like the fast tight bass notes are more noticeable with the headlight dimming. The long,low bass notes still dim but not as bad as the fast tight ones. I would have expected the opposite but maybe you or someone can explain that. The fast tight bass dimming is embarrassing, like damn I'm gonna get pulled over. The long, low bass is like well its dimming but not bad.

I've installed systems for 15 years on probaly 8 different cars. Why is it the mid to late eighties to the early nineties cars; you can throw a normal system in it. Not upgrade any wiring, stock alternator and a system will slam hard with issues what so ever. I miss those days. This includes a 87 Regal, 92 Caprice, 94 Caprice, 87 cadillac, 88 lincoln, 95 pathfinder, etc. I guess in todays time there getting cheap on production cost.

Josh

No there just Luminics Halogens, A little more output that stock. But still the same wattage 65/55 for headlights the norm. Foglights are Luminics too. I have no meter to check watt the amp is getting or at the headlight. I have double checked everything as far as a connection. I've used all quality ring terminals, connectors, etc. I have no way to check how good the amp ground is. The wire is about 2.5 feet distance from amp. On a seatbelt bolt thats attached to the frame. Its clean and paint free, shiny metal. The amp power wire has no shorts in it, it hasn't been cut or anything.

The problem is my amp is pulling more current right? Its not getting enough power? Am I right or it wouldn't pull power from the battery thus cause the headlights to dim.

I'm going to finish the Big 3. I was running out of time last night. And well today is a snow forcasted day. Does anyone think I should upgrade to a 4 guage power and ground for the 500 watt rms amp while I'm at it?