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And about the port direction(s) that you sketched I really don't think it matters but I would go with the top pic (ports near center of car) because you will probably end up with a flatter surface to mount the port to in that area of the box if your fiberglassing.
Below is a good example of an elbowed port. He didn't use it because of space in his enclosure, but its a good reference and also check out the flare he made. You might want to try that but I would just stick with a router and a quarter round bit on both ends of the port.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/158243-first-subwoofer-done-over-top-pics-start-finish-56k-unfriendly.html
He also mentions in there that, according to one of Vance Dickason's books, 4" pipe is a Minimum port diameter for a 12" sub so you shouldn't have to worry about port noise with 6" pipe, also remember to keep the end of the pipe inside as far away from the nearest perpendicular surface as possible I think mine is ~3". Guess I'll be upgrading to bigger myself when I build my new box...When I get my Eclipse SW6210.
BTW: If you decide to upgrade your amp or for future reference the new Ice Power Class D amps are AMAZING!!! I just finished putting an Eclipse XA4200 in my car today using 2 ch for my front and 2 ch for my 12" infinity and it pounds harder and is SOOO TIGHT and CLEAN with this 200W RMS compared to the Legacy class a/b that gave it 300W RMS, not to mention the clarity up front.