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xk531 and 5101


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antiny 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: February 12, 2010
Posted: February 28, 2010 at 8:29 AM / IP Logged  
I've pretty much finished installing a Viper 5101 on a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee, but have encountered a couple issues.    The first is that it will remote start now, but shuts down after a few seconds.   I am not sure if this is because the XK531 was programmed improperly (and the loop is secured to the ignition properly) or if it is something to do with the Vtach. I'm obviously no pro, this is my first install. I did leave the key in the ignition to remote start, and the car stayed running, so I believe that it is the XK531 module (programming or loop placement).   Also, any advice in securing the loop properly would be a great help.   The guide says to wrap around 3 or 5 turns.   This has proven difficult with this particular ignition.   Can the antenna be cut?
shafferny 
Copper - Posts: 240
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Joined: February 02, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: February 28, 2010 at 12:47 PM / IP Logged  

I don't know if you can cut the antenna loop or not. I'm sure someone else can advise you on that.

It definitely sounds like your bypass isn't programmed or working right. If necessary, remove what you need to to get it wrapped around the igntion good. I know I had to removed the multifunction stalk in my Jeep Liberty to get at the ignition.

tedmond 
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Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: February 28, 2010 at 6:37 PM / IP Logged  

only cut the loop for euro cars.

this is a bypass problem. make you its programmed properly, and the loop is firmly placed and zip tied into place.

Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
antiny 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: February 12, 2010
Posted: February 28, 2010 at 7:42 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the information.   I have another amateur question regarding "learning" the module.   Does it need to be powered up for this procedure (using the procedure outlined with the kit).   It seemed that it "took" because the Jeep responded to it.   The reason I ask about cutting the loop is that it is not easily accessible (you can only feed it in from one side, so hard to feed through and get tight)and the "ring" seems hard to get right up next to.
tedmond 
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Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: February 28, 2010 at 8:56 PM / IP Logged  

i dont use xpresskits so i have no idea about programming. some units require you two program the bypass twice. once for tranpsonder override, and once for door locks etc.

you will need to remove the steering wheel cover if you can. best way to get access to the barrel

Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
shafferny 
Copper - Posts: 240
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 02, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: March 01, 2010 at 2:52 PM / IP Logged  

antiny wrote:
Thanks for the information.   I have another amateur question regarding "learning" the module.   Does it need to be powered up for this procedure (using the procedure outlined with the kit).   It seemed that it "took" because the Jeep responded to it.   The reason I ask about cutting the loop is that it is not easily accessible (you can only feed it in from one side, so hard to feed through and get tight)and the "ring" seems hard to get right up next to.

I don't believe the bypass needs to be powered up for programming. Logically thinking, there is no power source for your key, is there?

For what it's worth, whenever I run the antenna loop around the ignition barrel, I use electrical tape. Wrap the antenna around the barrel as directed and then follow it by four or five nice tight wraps of electrical tape. The tape has some elasticity to it so it keeps the antenna perfectly in place. That's just my way of doing it though.

Like I said earlier, when I installed the bypass in my Jeep Liberty I had to remove the multifunction stalk(turn signal, headlight, and wiper switch) mounted on top of the steering colmun. It was the only way I could get at the igntion barrel. Fortunately, in my case, the multifunction stalk just lifted right up. There wasn't anything securing it to the steering column once the outer shroud was off.

antiny 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: February 12, 2010
Posted: March 01, 2010 at 9:42 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the info, all.   I'll try that, shaffer. I just discovered, with a little flashlight and a mirror that the top of the steering column shroud is secured with two torx head screws, yet all the rest are phillips.   Removing that and the other items in my way will make it a lot easier.   I actually thought it must have been fixed or riveted, because no size phillips did the trick.   And, that was my logic on the transponder chip too, a key doesn't have to be powered up, and the jeep did respond to the programming of the module.   I go into these things assuming I know nothing, and I have proven to be right most of the time.
shafferny 
Copper - Posts: 240
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 02, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: March 02, 2010 at 2:47 PM / IP Logged  

Yeah. The torx screw are probably a T-20. Once you remove those there might be a couple snaps on the dash side that hold the shroud halves together. They just pull apart. You'll just have to wiggle the shroud halves apart.

Chris Luongo 
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Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
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Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: March 02, 2010 at 4:26 PM / IP Logged  
I've never had to take the column shroud off a 2000-2004 Grand Cherokee, ever.
The part that covers the keyhole is just a little flap that you can pretty much fold out of the way. In fact, it fits so loosely that my main worry is that the ring for the bypass module could easily fall out of place if not well secured.
The antenna loop should be made so that it's pretty much as tight as it can be without showing....it's just hard to describe it in text. Or maybe better if I say it this way----it should be 1/8 to 1/4" greater in diamater than the round hole in the "flap" thingy that covers the keyswitch.

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