04 ford connect with deadlock

You need a timed output of about 3 secs to activate a changeover relay on the deadlock wire, you will also need a second lock output or trunk release to unlock the rear doors. I don't believe the product you mentioned has this capability let alone whether it will work or not. Get a viper 1002, it's possibly cheaper, definitely more reliable and much more expandable if required. All these functions are "grababbal" at the GEM box to the left of the fuse box.

That's why I said get a proper alarm, you'd have had the proper timed outputs, + 2 relays, one for the deadlocks and one to separately unlock the rear doors.

howie ll wrote: That's why I said get a proper alarm, you'd have had the proper timed outputs, + 2 relays, one for the deadlocks and one to separately unlock the rear doors.

Ok, advice taken, I've decided to resell it and look for a Toad A850 which is a 2-1 upgrade, thus using the original Ford fob....   Is that a better idea?  Also, has anyone had any experience in fitting the Toad, advice please..

Dave

If at first you don't Triumph, buy a Jap bike!

The toad relies on the factory fob. Not a great idea from what I've seen of them after a few years. The 850 is a swine to programme, you've still got to find your deadlock and unlock motor wires, etc. This is it from memory based on a regular alarm such as almost any Clifford/Viper. These are the instructions from memory:- If you've no passenger air bag, remove that panel and mount the unit there. Upper kick panel, left of fuse box is the GEM box. It doesn't unbolt easily so I usually (carefully) snatch out the board. This has between 2 and 4 plugs (model dependant). BLACK/ Orange Low current NEG to lock all doors. BLACK/ Green ditto to unlock front doors. This probing may be done with a decent test light with incandescent bulb, e.g. Snap-On. Now if you are very lucky there will be a third low neg. either BLACK/ green or BLACK / YELLOW which unlocks rear and side doors. If not the motor wires must be tested individually, can't remember the exact colours, I'm a bit confused because I was playing this game with a Sprinter yesterday. White, WHITE/ black,yellow, yellow/black. The one that shows 12 volts + ONLY on pressing the "rear door" button on your factory fob; cut, dedicated trunk release from alarm unit to 85, 12V+ Constant fused at 20amps to 86 and 87, GEM side to 87a and motor side to 30. The wire that shows 12 volts + ONLY on activating the deadlock via the factory fob, cut and wire in a relay in exactly the same way as before sharing the power source. Set a spare AUX to activate with arming, timed for 5 secs. Indicators, blue and blue/red plug on GEM board, Ignition and power source, GREEN/ YELLOW and red, loom going from ignition switch to fusebox. N.B. Cut the green yellow for total immobilisation. All door contacts BLACK/ blue, drive side floor loom (take care there are 2 or 4 of this colour and only 1 is the one you want). Do it this way, you've got deadlock on arming, priority unlock for security reasons on disarm, you can open side and rear doors any time once alarm is switched off, plus ignition controlled auto lock and unlock, with better range and more reliability for less money than the Toad which is a 12 year old design by now.

T has battery back and siren and a metal case, at a guess.