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08 lancer stock head unit not turning on


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billcore 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: March 24, 2010
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: March 24, 2010 at 3:16 AM / IP Logged  
Hey all,
   *I have a huge problem, if you know your car audio please take the time to read* ( i couldn't write this in the subject line as per the rules, but Please somebody I'm at a loss here and need help desperately )
   Just so you know, I know my audio systems, I've never had a problem like this,
   I have a big problem, I installed aftermarket speakers (4) and the amp to go with it in my friends 08 Mitsubishi lancer (using the stock navi head unit w/o the Rockford system). He already had a sub and the amp to power it installed, all using a hi/lo converter. Now the sub was installed sub par, the remote wire was just stuck in the fuse block with the fuse holding it in, the fire wall chaffed the lining off exposing the wire, i wrapped it back up with tape, but it already blew the 100A fuse that was hooked to it when i moved the wire to look at it (i forgot to unhook the battery, but quickly did after this,....i hooked the hi/lo coming out of the H/U with the other one running the sub. Now for my problem, i hooked up the amp to the battery (2 power wires running from batt to amps) but coming off 1 lead, using the 100A fuse because both amps call for 50A, (the guy just hooked up 100A to the sub alone)...after running all the wiring, and hooking up the speakers, grounded everything, everything seemed perfect. I turned the car on, the h/u came on but the amps did not.. i checked the power with my tester light and the power was all good, the remote wasn't though (i ran my remote line from the existing amp to the new amp)...i turned the car off and traced back where the existing remote wire was ran to and that's when I discovered it was just held with the fuse, but it wasn't in, (i guess from when i was running one of the other wires, it was not held in all that great), so i said forget it, it was working like that so i just hooked it back as it was, thinking everything would be good. Hooked battery back up started car, h/u came on, amps didn't, tested and got nothing at the remote, the 15A fuse blew, so i replaced the fuse using the cigarette lighter fuse cuz i didn't have any at the moment. Hooked battery back up, turned car on, and nothing but another blown fuse...at this time we didn't know what was going on, we found out we didn't hook up the harness that goes to the airbag and hazard bar below the unit, so we hooked that up (but left out the remote cuz i thought maybe that was the problem). I then used the hazards fuse, hooked up battery, turned the car on and now the h/u didn't even turn on, no blown fuse, (just 2 missing, everything else turned on and the hazards worked, so i dunno if maybe the fuse i took was the problem (the fuse symbol was the triangles that looked like the hazards sign) so i replaced that fuse with the dome light fuse, tried again and nothing...put back the fuse i took from the dome light and tested the fuse block for the h/u and there was power, so i used a paper clip as a jumper for the radio (hoping missing fuses were a problem, although i really didn't think that was it, cuz the light showed there was power....and the head unit STILL DIDN'T TURN ON....i looked at all the connections behind the h/u and they were hooked up....at this point i was embarrassed and wized, I've hooked up at least 10 full systems and a boat load of just a sub here or speakers there and ALWAYS got em working (I take pride in my work, and always always get anything i install to not only work, but tuned to sound great!). Like I said before, I know what I'm doing but now i cannot figure out whats wrong, I troubleshot everything I could think of but the dammed H/U will not turn on despite power at the fuse block. I don't wanna hook up the remote now until this is fixed.
   So here's the questions, is there a safe mode? (even tho i have unhooked the battery many times and it always turned on) ...is there an internal fuse in the h/u( there wasn't one in the back),... can the unit be blown? (how could it have been, and i hope to hell its not)...does ANYONE out there know what's wrong and what caused this?.....I really don't wanna have to pay this kid 1000 bucks or whatever the stock h/u is worth after I spent 6 hours busting my ass on this system ......
   Please please PLEASE i hope someone knows what the hell happened :( I feel like such an A-hole, esp after i spent 6 hours doing everything right and correcting the other guys work ....
    So to anyone that can shed light on this I thank you in advance and you'll always know someone out there thinks your a hero :)
awdeclipse 
Copper - Posts: 285
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 05, 2007
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: March 24, 2010 at 7:11 AM / IP Logged  
Did you replace all the missing fuses and when you were moving them all around did you have the correct rating fuses in the appropriate locations? If the remote wire kept blowing fuses its probably shorting out somewhere.
Replace all the fuses with the correct ratings and start from there. Jumping fuses and swapping fuses from one location to another is asking for trouble. I'm sure that radio is fed power from at least two different circuits. Mainly Ignition and constant battery if not more.
On a side note, I thought I blew the stock Infinity unit up in my 97 Eclipse and I tried it a year later for S&Gs when I had the console apart and low and behold it worked... So it is possible the stock unit might have some kind of protection in it but I don't know for sure.
billcore 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: March 24, 2010
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: March 24, 2010 at 8:20 AM / IP Logged  
i didnt replace all the fuses yet, but when switching, i did make sure i used all 15A...ill try that today and see if that works, and what do you mean you tried for S&G's?....Thanks
awdeclipse 
Copper - Posts: 285
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 05, 2007
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: March 24, 2010 at 10:27 AM / IP Logged  
Shivs and Giggles
jeremytravis 
Copper - Posts: 62
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: December 17, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: March 24, 2010 at 5:29 PM / IP Logged  
Hey, first off never use a jumper wire in place of a fuse thats how you will turn a small problem into a BIG PROBLEM, go and get the proper replacement fuses you have blown, if that doesn't fix the problem disconnect everything if all the fuses are good and your getting power at the head unit and it still doesn't turn on, then you most likely cooked your head unit.
**advanced mecp certified
billcore 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: March 24, 2010
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: March 24, 2010 at 10:04 PM / IP Logged  
jeremytravis wrote:
Hey, first off never use a jumper wire in place of a fuse thats how you will turn a small problem into a BIG PROBLEM, go and get the proper replacement fuses you have blown, if that doesn't fix the problem disconnect everything if all the fuses are good and your getting power at the head unit and it still doesn't turn on, then you most likely cooked your head unit.
Yea man I know that, unfortunately I just did it AFTER the h/u stopped working, and only for a second to see if it had power. Trust me man I know that doodies stupid lol...but do you think that 2 missing fuses could keep the h/u off even if the fuse for the radio is installed?...I didn't have a chance to try that yet....and also, head units can fry?...that's one thing I did not know, how could that happen?
darksidecelica 
Member - Posts: 30
Member spacespace
Joined: July 21, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: March 29, 2010 at 8:51 PM / IP Logged  
I would replace all the fuse with the correct ratings then take my dmm and meter the wires on the back of the radio for 12v constant, acc and ground. If you have all those 3, the h/u has probably seen its last days

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