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idatalink doorlock issue


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x1le 
Copper - Posts: 171
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 01, 2009
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: April 09, 2010 at 12:11 AM / IP Logged  
so I did my first remote start on a manual transmission vehicle tonight, my own car! Installed a viper 5901 into my 2001 pt cruiser and used an idatalink ads-dl for the bypass.
Everything works correctly except my doorlocks. When I hit unlock/disarm on the remote, all 4 doors will lock and then only the driver will unlock. When I hit lock/arm, the security system arms, but nothing happens with the doors. Any ideas? I connected doorlocks through the ads-dl as written in the manual.
Too tired to think right now and figured I'd ask you guys before I go and take a crack back at it tomorrow. Thanks.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: April 09, 2010 at 5:54 AM / IP Logged  

Just a couple of thoughts and things to check that might be redundant....

The iDatalink ADS DL should be flashed with ADS DL CH6 ver  1.7 firmware.  I would wire it up in W2W mode and set it to Standard Mode.  If you have already set it up this way, then a factory reset, mode set and re-program is in order.

The iDatalink guide says it's the Type 3 install for your car.  The modules Yellow analog output wire goes to the cars "one wire door lock" wire.  I would double check that I was on the correct wire by testing it with a 3 k resistor ( lock ) and a 7.2 k resistor ( unlock ) to ground just to be should I found the correct wire in the harness coming into the kick panel from the door.

I have installed iDatalink on some Dodges that do the Drivers door priority unlock routine automatically, just like the factory FOB.  ( First unlock press just does the drivers door, second unlock press ( within 3 seconds ) does the rest of the doors.)

Soldering is fun!
Mike M2 
Platinum - Posts: 2,652
Platinum spacespace
Joined: June 29, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 09, 2010 at 6:20 AM / IP Logged  
I believe the doors must be closed for the doors to lock also...
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
x1le 
Copper - Posts: 171
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 01, 2009
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: April 09, 2010 at 7:33 AM / IP Logged  
kreg357 wrote:

Just a couple of thoughts and things to check that might be redundant....

The iDatalink ADS DL should be flashed with ADS DL CH6 ver  1.7 firmware.  I would wire it up in W2W mode and set it to Standard Mode.  If you have already set it up this way, then a factory reset, mode set and re-program is in order.

The iDatalink guide says it's the Type 3 install for your car.  The modules Yellow analog output wire goes to the cars "one wire door lock" wire.  I would double check that I was on the correct wire by testing it with a 3 k resistor ( lock ) and a 7.2 k resistor ( unlock ) to ground just to be should I found the correct wire in the harness coming into the kick panel from the door.

I have installed iDatalink on some Dodges that do the Drivers door priority unlock routine automatically, just like the factory FOB.  ( First unlock press just does the drivers door, second unlock press ( within 3 seconds ) does the rest of the doors.)

appreciate the help! yes, I have it flashed and set up w2w. like I said, all other funtions work like door triggers, tach, bypass, etc. I'm thinking I probably snagged the wrong doorlock wire, I'll definitely go double check. Thanks!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: April 09, 2010 at 8:22 AM / IP Logged  

Another thought because of the Viper 5901 and its'  + / -  lock outputs..........

In W2W mode, the Green wire from the Vipers 3 Pin Door harmess is the Lock wire and is attached to the iDatalink GREEN/ Black lock wire.  The iDatalink module is looking for a Type B (-) lock signal.  The Vipers Blue wire from that same harness is the UnLock wire.

Soldering is fun!
x1le 
Copper - Posts: 171
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 01, 2009
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: April 09, 2010 at 9:42 AM / IP Logged  
I did have the wrong doorlock wire! I had originally grabbed a WHITE/ green along a harness in the driver kick. After looking @ several different diagrams, it said it's straight from the door. I ended up pulling the fusebox and right behind it is a harness that had the correct wire.
thanks for the help!

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