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starter kill relay buzzing


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cartman_sr 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: April 14, 2010
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: April 14, 2010 at 3:28 PM / IP Logged  

Hi. I am just finishing up installing an Omega Rec-12 remote entry system in my '91 Volvo 740. It's my first alarm-type of installation, but I've done all sorts of 12V projects in the past and am not a noob at this. Anyway, I have it all working (and pretty happy with it too) except for one detail: The starter kill relay isn't working properly. I used  a proper starter-kill relay harness from partsexpress.com and a new Bosch branded relay (20/30A). But I have a box of relays and sockets I can fiddle with.  Anyway, like you would expect, the Rec-12 has a (-) output to the starter kill wire (orange wire) when the system is "locked". So I properly spliced it into the starter wire and plugged everything in. The car starts as normal when it's disarmed.

But when it's armed and I turn the key (I wanted to test the starter kill function) the relay buzzes loudly and gets pretty hot if you apply power to it for too long. I have tried disconnecting the orange wire from the Rec-12 and just grounding it to see if it was a problem with the Rec-12 output, but the relay still buzzes, so it's on the "car side". Trying a different relay actually did let the engine crank a bit, while the relay was clicking away. The Bosch relay clicks way faster (buzzes) and the engine isn't cranking, but this isn't right and I don't want to overheat the relay in case it ever gets used, like if my friend tries to start it without unlocking the Rec-12 first.

Could it be that the car sends a PWM signal of some kind to the starter relay (located on the starter motor) to crank the engine? That idea seems strange to me but I guess it's possible. Does anyone have any ideas? I have lots of tools that I can use to test things out, including a digital clamp meter. I'm posting this from my desk at work and just trying to think of things to try. Will work on it some more tonight.

t&t tech 
Platinum - Posts: 2,601
Platinum spacespace
Joined: October 05, 2008
Location: Trinidad and Tobago
Posted: April 14, 2010 at 3:45 PM / IP Logged  

Do you have the ignition trigger of the relay (pin 86) feeding of the starter wire, if so you have the wire connected on the wrong side of the wire it must be connected tp the key side or a truw ignition wire!

JW.ORG.
COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF.
PSALMS 37:5
cartman_sr 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: April 14, 2010
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: April 14, 2010 at 3:52 PM / IP Logged  
I'll double-check it tonight, but I'm pretty sure I have it right. I'll reply back with the details tonight.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: April 14, 2010 at 4:57 PM / IP Logged  
Starter key side to 30, starter side to 87a, ground whilst armed to 85 and "HARD" ignition, i.e. live on ignition AND crank to 86. Place a diode (1N400X) between 85 and 86 with the band towards 86. The car is too early for "funny" electrics.
91stt 
Silver - Posts: 564
Silver spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 24, 2006
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: April 14, 2010 at 5:28 PM / IP Logged  
if you are using a 3 wire relay socket, you have the red (key side) and white (starter side) wires reversed.
boxhead78 
Copper - Posts: 84
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 07, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: April 14, 2010 at 9:09 PM / IP Logged  
splice starter wire .take the key side of wire to pin 30 to 85. put wire going to starter to 87a.run orange wire from alarm to oin 86
boxead78
cartman_sr 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: April 14, 2010
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: April 15, 2010 at 9:59 AM / IP Logged  

Yes it's a 3 wire socket, complete with diode already installed. You guys were right - I had the wires reversed. I could have sworn I had it right the first time, but that's what I get for not checking it beforehand with a test light!

Anyway I fixed it last night and now it works. Everything's working perfectly. I even used a 528T pulse timer to have the third channel of the Rec-12 switch on the headlights for 30 seconds too. I think that will be a neat feature.

Actually there is one more thing: the trunk unlock function, but I'll put that into another post because I need ideas on how to implement it.

Thanks.


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