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leds and my charging system.


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jmelton86 
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Gold spacespace
Joined: February 07, 2007
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: April 23, 2010 at 11:09 PM / IP Logged  

94' Corolla (Prizm, actually) with 125k miles. It's in its prime.

180amps worth of amplifier fusing on a 70a alternator.

1 Orbital yellowtop and the Big3 in 4g. 150a fuse at the battery on both the + Big3 wire and the + main wire for the amps. Yeah, I know I need 2g at least... Amps are a PDX4.100 and a Crunch P1500.1 @ 2ohms. I've got a calibrated Stinger voltage meter on the dash. The voltage, at low bass (when it blends with the front stage) the voltage stays @ 14.7ish volts. Wide open, it stays @ 14.3ish surprisingly.

Anyways, I've got an LED in the trunk, in the cabin, and in the front corner lights. I'm switching all exterior lighting over to LED. I'm not too concerned about the interior lights (the dome light was free, I jus had to fix it) because I always have them dimmed down. I don't use the HVAC fans or anything when I've got the bass up past normal listening levels. I don't want to fry this HUGE 70a alt.

I know that with the money I'll spend in LEDs I could be putting towards a HO alt, but that's just a huge chunk to dish out. I've gotten all of my gear either extremely cheaply or by trade. Needless to say, I won't be upgrading the alt unless the current one fries and I can get one for equal to or not much more than a direct replacement. LoL.

Questions: Are LEDs that much more efficient than incandescent? What style do you recommend for tail/ brake lights (lights that shine only straight up or up and around the side etc...)? Can I use clear (white) lights in my taillights with red lenses? Amber lenses?

Thanks!

2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001
oldspark 
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Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: April 24, 2010 at 1:37 AM / IP Logged  
Is your voltmeter connected across the battery (both +ve & -ve wires?) - it sounds like you are measuring dash etc voltages, else have have a ground drop.
But yes - LEDs are far more efficient than incandescents.
But whether they are legal etc.... (Technically they have probably not been approved for older vehicles....)
And they can wash out in sunlight, or be too concentrated with little side spread etc.
You will probably need a different flasher can if you change flasher/indicator bulbs.
And it will confuse any blown-bulb sensor you have.
But for the sake of efficiency, I'd hardly worry about it - what is the typical current/wattage of those bulbs, and how does that compare to your other loadings?
Besides, if your voltmeter is not showing battery voltage dips below (say) 13.6V or 13V, then you alternator is doing fine.
jmelton86 
Gold - Posts: 1,228
Gold spacespace
Joined: February 07, 2007
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: April 24, 2010 at 8:28 AM / IP Logged  

oldspark wrote:
Is your voltmeter connected across the battery (both +ve & -ve wires?) - it sounds like you are measuring dash etc voltages, else have have a ground drop.

The voltage meters wires are soldered to 18g, but then yes, they are connected to the acc. terminal on the fuse panel located in the drivers' kickpanel. Are you saying that you think the voltage should be higher? That would be Sa-Weet, because when I first crank up the car on early mornings, sometimes the voltage will rest  at 15- 15.1 volts for a mile or two.leds and my charging system. -- posted image.

But yes - LEDs are far more efficient than incandescents.
But whether they are legal etc.... (Technically they have probably not been approved for older vehicles....)
And they can wash out in sunlight, or be too concentrated with little side spread etc.

I'm not getting bright- colored ones for my exterior lighting or anything, so I'll just have to go with it.., What does the underlined part mean, lol?

You will probably need a different flasher can if you change flasher/indicator bulbs.
And it will confuse any blown-bulb sensor you have.

What kind of flasher would I need? This is a 94' Prizm so I doubt I have very many blown- bulb sensors he he he.

But for the sake of efficiency, I'd hardly worry about it - what is the typical current/wattage of those bulbs, and how does that compare to your other loadings?

How could I even find this out? Are you saying it's not really worth it?

Besides, if your voltmeter is not showing battery voltage dips below (say) 13.6V or 13V, then you alternator is doing fine.

That's what I figured.

Oh, yea. What about light assemblies with amber or red lenses? Can I use clear LEDs in them?

Thanks!

2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: April 24, 2010 at 11:45 AM / IP Logged  
Voltmeters should be connected across the battery - other places are subject to voltage drops etc. The alternator's target voltage of 13.8 - 14.4V (long term) is based on the battery's requirement.
For internal lighting there shouldn't be any legal issues (assuming that's what you mean - ie, you are NOT replacing external lamps).
LEDs "fade" in sunlight - you may not be able to tell that they are on - thatcan be a problems with brake & indicator lights.
Older LED lamps had no side illumination - they were directed "straight out". That can be a problem for corner lenses. They can also be too bright (blinding) in a direct line.   
You won't need a different flasher if you are not replacing external bulbs. Otherwise you need a flasher suited to your car that will operate with the lower LED load.
I'd assume you know which bulbs you are replacing with LEDs, hence you can find out how many bulbs and what total wattage. EG - 10 x 3W dash illuminations lamps (30W); no 7W tail lamps or parking lamps etc. Say it's 50W. That's about 4A on a 70A alternator that might have an average output of (say) 40A. So is 4A in 40A worth it? How much for the bigger alternator (if you need it)? (Assume the LEDs take no power for the sake of argument. Otherwise assume 20mA per 3 LEDs unless you can find the LED-lamps actual draw. (LED-lamps may contain 15 LEDs as 5 parallel strings of 3 series LEDS. If the LEDs are 20mA, that means 5x20mA = 100mA = 0.1A per "bulb" (compared to say a 7W = 0.5A bulb) or 3 series LEDs (20mA) compared to a 3W bulb (250mA).   
White LEDs are ok behind lenses.
And colored LEDs are ok behind same-colored lenses.
But you can't mix colors - eg - no green LED behind a red lens; and probably not a red LED with an amber lens and vice-versa.
jmelton86 
Gold - Posts: 1,228
Gold spacespace
Joined: February 07, 2007
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: April 26, 2010 at 5:47 PM / IP Logged  
Cool.
Thanks for all the info!
2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001
milly123 
Member - Posts: 1
Member spacespace
Joined: July 07, 2010
Location: Newfoundland, China
Posted: July 07, 2010 at 2:30 AM / IP Logged  
H7 18 LED Bulb Red 2 PCs
Features:
Socket type: H7
Voltage: DC 12V
Power: 2.7 Watt
Light output: 60-70 Lumen
Color temperature: 3000-4000K
Light color: Red
Length: 50mm
Width: 25mm
leds and my charging system. -- posted image.

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